2010 RC, Left brake locks up rolling forward. Help

The brakes appear to be adjusted correctly but while driving forward the left drive tire will bind up and pull down the engine to a stall if I don't grab the clutch. I've had the cover off and the components seem to be in good condition. It seems as though the live discs are grabbing the actuating assembly and binding up the whole operation. Any thoughts?

Thank you, Greg
 
Are the springs holding the actuators in good shape? If those springs
are stretched/weak it can allow the drag between brake pads and
surfaces to "actuate" the actuators and engage the brakes. I actually
just had the same issue with my 2010 although not as severe. I cleaned
up the actuators and installed new springs and all is well again.
 
Yes this is a common problem with this Bendix system, a good cleaning will help it a lot,,take them clear out and wire wheel them down especially in all the contact areas.. and keep the free travel rather close the more the plates move as applied the more chance of locking, this system was used on several different applications at that time...
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:52 05/10/15) Yes this is a common problem with this Bendix system, a good cleaning will help it a lot,,take them clear out and wire wheel them down especially in all the contact areas.. and keep the free travel rather close the more the plates move as applied the more chance of locking, this system was used on several different applications at that time...

I replaced the springs, all 3 actuator balls, the tension yoke/bolt and cleaned everything very well. I did not replace the discs as they looked ok. I may need to. After taking everything appart again this morning all looked normal but the same condition is present.

Tim, you mentioned keeping the adjustment close. Close to the factory recommended 1.5" of free play to keep the Bendex slightly loaded with tension? If it were snug I would think it would be prone to lock up?
 
They always seemed to me that if the adjustment was 'longer' or the travel was more it gave them more opportunity to sorta "latch" into a lock-up,,the old 4400/3300 combines used the same set-up, and they would give trouble. I remember years ago I was following my Dad through our little town with a 4400 combine, some one opened a car door in front of him, he hit the brakes and the left one locked, the 4 row corn head did a nose dive and he made a "tight left turn" there in the middle of town, cars on both sides of the street, the straw spreader guard was swinging over top of cars,,and then it all set down, in the street, missing 'every thing' some how, and he was headed the other way...now that was a sight to behold...
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:29 05/10/15) I remember years ago I was following my Dad through our little town with a 4400 combine, [color=red:fec4481b12]some one opened a car door in front of him,[/color:fec4481b12] he hit the brakes and the left one locked, the 4 row corn head did a nose dive and he made a "tight left turn" there in the middle of town, cars on both sides of the street, the straw spreader guard was swinging over top of cars,,and then it all set down, in the street, missing 'every thing' some how, and he was headed the other way...now that was a sight to behold...

Did you enjoy the Combine action or the fight that broke out after Dad got off the Combine?
 
It was good that he stayed in the cab, he had to go back up to the round about to continue on home,,the sign language was pretty intense...
 
When the disks get worn down, they tend to be real grabby as you have indicated. Sure sign the disks need to be replaced.. BTW did you solve the hdy problem you were having earlier?
Jo
 
Braking surfaces could be wearing down as well which means you need to
machine the brake housings down to get back into spec. Those actuators
only have so much travel. With both discs and the actuator inside the
drum, lay a straight across the drum and measure from the straight
edge to the brake disc. Should be around .050"... I would say no more
than .100"
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:29 05/10/15) When the disks get worn down, they tend to be real grabby as you have indicated. Sure sign the disks need to be replaced.. BTW did you solve the hdy problem you were having earlier?
Jo

Jo, I haven't figured out the bucket lifting issue. I put the sprayer on the 3 point to do the spring weed/feed and the ol girl locked up in the driveway. I checked the lines and I have stable pressure throughout the system. I'm thinking I have a relief valve somewhere or an issue with the SCV under the steering column. The bucket is plumbed off the top of the selective control valve. I need to read more about that valve to see how to test or rebuild. It's still a puzzle at this point.
 

I will pick up replacement disks this week and measure the setback. When you stated machining the drum I believe you meant to remove material off the mounting surface where the drum mounts to the trans housing. I don't remember a Shoulder on the drum surface so don't think there is a mess of wear but that doesn't near the disc's aren't trashed.
 

JD has brake disk listed as NLA but disk is available from A&I.
mvphoto20676.png
 
(quoted from post at 06:52:34 05/11/15)
JD has brake disk listed as NLA but disk is available from A&I.
mvphoto20676.png

Ordered my parts today. Should be here Wednesday or Thursday. I will do a layout and determine the setback when they arrive. I sure hope this corrects this issue. Sure feels like I am swimming against the current some days with this machine. Should correct itself at some point..... After everything has been replaced. 😃😆
 
That is usually the case. A lot of guys dont like this brake system,
but it was used on a lot of tractors from that era. I myself dont mind
it. When the parts are in good shape, and the clearance is correct,
these brakes work very well. Trouble is a lot of years of use and
usually a lack of maintenance!
 
(quoted from post at 01:25:59 05/11/15)
(quoted from post at 18:09:29 05/10/15) When the disks get worn down, they tend to be real grabby as you have indicated. Sure sign the disks need to be replaced.. BTW did you solve the hdy problem you were having earlier?
Jo

Jo, I haven't figured out the bucket lifting issue. I put the sprayer on the 3 point to do the spring weed/feed and the ol girl locked up in the driveway. I checked the lines and I have stable pressure throughout the system. I'm thinking I have a relief valve somewhere or an issue with the SCV under the steering column. The bucket is plumbed off the top of the selective control valve. I need to read more about that valve to see how to test or rebuild. It's still a puzzle at this point.

As a stand alone system the tractor hydraulics's appear to be operating normal from our past conversations. You said you have 1300 PSI at each hose connection to the loader. Only when the loader is introduced in to the system does the problem show up. If it were more of a tractor related problem then it should show up when you put a loaded sprayer on the 3 point, if tractor related it should not lift the 3 pt either. So my money is on the lift cylinder/supply and return hoses or it's bypassing in the cylinder it's self. Their is a circuit relief valve on the section of the valve that controls the lift cylinder. But by moving the hoses from the bucket curl and lift and both operated as before, i would say that relief circuit valve is okay. I would put your gauge on the base of the lift cylinder and get a pressure reading at each side and if okay crack the return lines from the lift cylinders, some thing is holding the loader from raising. No guarantee's but I would not tear into the tractor hyd's before checking out the loader further.
Jo
 
Thank you Joe, I will give that a try this weekend if the rain holds off. Makes since to look for the simple first before getting to carried away.

I figured out the brake issue.... There was no brake issue. I replaced the disc's, the old ones were very worn after seeing the new replacements. I reassembled the drum and the same problem took place. After taking the drum and Bendex off the shaft I gave the tractor a run thinking the shaft may be bent and could observe it without the drum on. While rolling out it locked up again in about 15 feet. Turns out the problem is in the left hand final drive. I have no idea whats going on in there. haven't even thought about it much. This is a very disappointing discovery. I pulled out the service manual and there is a mess of work ahead of me to ID this one. Any help on this would be appreciated.

I'm going to start a new thread to change the subject line to the final drive.
 

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