1010 hydraulic pump

nails1 · May 1, 2015

I'm restoring a 1010. (To tell you what kind of genius you're dealing with here.) The 3-point hitch has never worked, but it's also never had any fluid. It actually looks good (I took the rockshaft assembly off), and the pump turns well in my hand. I already replaced a seriously degraded line; and I fixed the crack in the axle case that leaked oil.

This pump (under the steering wheel) has power steering ports, but the tractor is manual steering. The ports are just sitting there, open (and full of dirt).

I gather that this is an open-center system. I'm guessing the power steering ports have a bypass pressure valve that's set pretty low. If so, then maybe it doesn't matter whether I deadhead these ports or plumb them together?

Can anyone straighten me out here? (Just the pump question -- restoring a 1010 is already a lost cause).

Thanks!

buickanddeere · May 1, 2015

This would be a good opportunity to go on line at the JD web site and look at the free parts book.
Odds are that over 50 some years somebody may have cross bred replacement parts.

The nice folks at 1-800-522-7448 have real JD service and operators manuals on CD and hard copy.
IT manuals are best rolled up and used to swat flies .

nails1 · May 1, 2015

I plan to buy op and service manuals, but only after I get a good handle on whether this 1010 is going to remain part of my life. I know it starts and drives and the PTO works. I want to see some movement in the rockshaft before spending much on anything else. If the 3-point is terminal, I'll need to sell the whole thing.

Soon I plan to start it again. (I took the injector pump off to clean up the block, and have to set the timing.) I also did a ton of work (but not much money) repairing various wrecks (lots of brazing cracked cast iron). I haven't even put oil in the transmission/axles/hydraulic system yet. (I'm finishing up with the PTO, to button up the back).

But pretty soon, I'll be able to fire it up again and see what actually works. It's pretty obvious to me that it'll spray oil all over the place if I don't deal with those power steering ports. All I'm just asking whether I should deadhead them or plumb them together.

I'm sure I'll have other questions later.

buickanddeere · May 1, 2015

A diesel 1010 or any 2010 is not for the faint of heart . Much patience , a lot of mechanical skills and deep pockets would be assets.

nails1 · May 1, 2015

Thanks. Wish I'd known that before I saw the ad for that package deal: a dead 1010d and a dead 2010d. Alas, "you can take the kid off the farm, but you can't take the farm out of the kid." That kid got the better of me.

All I need to do with this 1010 is plow snow off the driveway, parade around the neighborhood on Christmas, and teach my daughter how to drive. But for the former, I need the 3-point hitch.

Hay maker2 · May 1, 2015

Send me your email address and I will send you the service manual.
Yes you can set the flow divider valve to ntohin and be fine. The power stearing uses 2 gallons per minute.

old · May 1, 2015

The 1010 and the 2010 where one of JDs biggest problem tractors they ever built. Parts for them are high priced and hard to find. I have about 3/4 of one of them so if you need some parts I may well have them

Tx Jim · May 1, 2015

And 2840's are 3rd sorriest

MSD · May 1, 2015

If it's a diesel make sure you have good working glow plugs or it will be tough to start.

DGinVT · May 1, 2015

I had a 1010 Diesel crawler and it could be just as troublesome. The steering clutches were a _____ to adjust. Had to remove the seat to adjust. Its winch was also a problem and would leak continually leak brake fluid. It went when I got a 350D. The 2010 was not much better.

old · May 1, 2015

Have you not been asked kindly to not answer my posts?? Are you not mature enough to honor a simple request???????? I WILL NEVER answer one of yours so be a mature person and do not answer any of mine

Tx Jim · May 2, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:22:35 05/01/15) Have you not been asked kindly to not answer my posts?? Are you not mature enough to honor a simple request???????? I WILL NEVER answer one of yours so be a mature person and do not answer any of mine

Old
As I've previously stated I replied to the thread right after you BUT I DID NOT REPLY TO YOUR POST. I did not state your name nor quote you. You're viewing on Classic and I post on Modern try switching to Modern and you'll see your name is in no form or fashion is in my post.

Also this forum is open to the public and as long as I "abide by it's rules" which BTW I try to do I can respond to any reply on this discussion forum.

nails1 · May 2, 2015

Thanks for all the replies. (I'm on the road with limited access.)

(quoted from post at 13:15:35 05/01/15) Send me your email address and I will send you the service manual.

[email protected] Much appreciated! (Right now, I don't even know what kind of oil is supposed to be in the axle/trans/hydraulics.)

(quoted from post at 13:15:35 05/01/15) Yes you can set the flow divider valve to ntohin and be fine.

I don't follow this -- is there an adjustment inside the pump? I saw what I thought was a pressure releaf valve, down in all of that dirt. (I've already gotten in trouble breaking gaskets that were later hard to find. So I think I'll try to clean this out by just douching it with carb cleaner, upside down. It's mostly ancient dust.)

(quoted from post at 13:15:35 05/01/15) The power stearing uses 2 gallons per minute.

Much appreciated. Do you happen to know the pressure? I wonder if I could use this circuit on a lift-arm leveling cylinder. (Assuming the 3-point works at all.) I wouldn't care how slow it pumped, and a large cylinder might not need much pressure.

(reply to post at 14:27:41 05/01/15) And 2840's are 3rd sorriest

Warning taken. But I might have enough Deere John problems for one life, already.

(reply to post at 18:21:57 05/01/15) If it's a diesel make sure you have good working glow plugs or it will be tough to start.

Amen -- all four were dead, but I just installed all new ones.
I see that these are tough to start anyway. The few times I previously started it all involved ether, but I don't want to do that with hot glow plugs.
And I'm dealing with a dead hand pump, too. Not to hijack my own thread, but does anyone know about alternatives? (The "Cessna" replacement I was quoted is $850!!!) I've heard of "plastic knob" alternatives -- trying to find out exactly what that is. And I've noticed bulb-type purge pumps for $15 that might work, even if I'd have to give it a thousand pumps for the same prime.
But for the crack, I just want to see if the rockshaft even works. I mean, I'll try to start it again with good glow plugs and in the middle of this summer. Later, I'll deal with hand pumps, heaters, and otherwise being able to start it in the winter. Baby steps.

(reply to post at 19:22:35 05/01/15)

Whew -- at first I thought you were talking to me.

--
Neal

Tx Jim · May 2, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:21:30 05/02/15)

[email protected] Much appreciated! (Right now, I don't even know what kind of oil is supposed to be in the axle/trans/hydraulics.)

(quoted from post at 13:15:35 05/01/15)
Much appreciated. Do you happen to know the pressure?

And I'm dealing with a dead hand pump, too.
Neal

Click to expand...

On subject of hyd pressure I think it will be around 1200 psi

Good operating glow plugs will help starting without the need for ether.

Hand pump on 1010/2010 is only utilized in cold weather starting as fuel is gravity feed to inj pump.

Hay maker2 · May 2, 2015

I sent the service section for the hydrualics, check your email.

Robert Major · May 2, 2015

Amen to your last comment, I tried testing a JD hyd system with their info, over half what I needed
to know was missing compared to a genuine Deere book. The JD hyd section on it's own was thicker
than the Whole I&T book.
I will only use them for reference and torque specs now on simpler jobs. I don't have time, or
customers money to waste, on incorrect diagnosis from the wrong or lack of information needed to
find and fix a problem.
Regards Robert

nails1 · May 3, 2015

(reply to post at 13:15:35 05/01/15)
Yes you can set the flow divider valve to ntohin and be fine.

Just to be clear, you're saying that I can just plug these power-steering ports?

Again, I only need to run it long enough to see whether the rockshaft moves ... or I need to spend a lot more money.

(And thanks again for trying to send that hydraulics chapter.)

--
Neal

buickanddeere · May 3, 2015

Plugging the discharge of an open center pump and with no relief valve in the circuit will make a bad sound plus broken parts.

Hay maker2 · May 3, 2015

You are correct, but if you back off the flow divider valve so it will not allow oil to go to the power stearing unit (2.5 gallons per minute / 1000 psi) you should be fine. Also, the Hydrulaic pump that is used on a 1010 when the power stearing is insatlled has a built in pressure releif valve for the power stearing side only.

The standard pump that is used with a manual stearing trator does not have a flow diveder valve or a pressure releif valve.

Since you stated that you bought the tractor this way (manual steraing tractor with a hydrulic pump for power stearing) I would fill the resivor with oil and leave the power stearing ports open and start it up. Maybe some one already backed off the flow divider valve. Worst case is that you shoot some oil up out of the pump...

A service manual is pricless for this info!!!!

Hay maker2 · May 3, 2015

Per the JD 1010 service manual:
Hydrualic oil should be JD303
Transimission oil, SAE 80w or JD303
Final Drives oil, SAE 80w or JD303

Since this is a John Deere 1010 I wolud just go to TSC and buy there universial hydrualic oil. There are no wet brakes, wet clutch, or power shift packson this tractor, however if this was a 4020 or something simular you'r be crazy not to use the hygrard.

I do not have an honest answer why the manual states use 80w or JD303 since these two oils are night and day different. I personally had an issue with my PTO clutch on my 1010, it was not releasing and the PTO would not stp turning. I blamed it on the use of the 80w. The only problem that I could find with it was that it was gummed up from 50 years worthof the 80w oil. I cleaned up the PTO clutch and been using the TSC universial oil in the JD 1010 oil for sevral years now.

nails1 · May 4, 2015

Really appreciate the advice. (Even though it sounds like the JD manuals alone still aren't enough!)

I'll be able to button up the PTO output shaft assembly this weekend so that it'll even hold oil. And since the hydraulics are way-drained, I'll try to charge it all by chirping the starter. Not to mention charging the injection pump -- I'm sure re-starting it this next time will take a lot of cranking.

Given the dust and open ports (and the pump area wasn't especially oily -- those side covers are lost), either that PS divider valve is closed, it hasn't had fluid since this pump was installed, or it doesn't work at all. The dust doesn't have ANY oil, so I'm leaning toward the last two.

Hope springs eternal, not only that the rockshaft works but I can use the PS circuit for a tilt cylinder on the snow scrapper. I should know in a couple weekends.

nails1 · May 4, 2015

(reply to post at 14:52:07 05/03/15)
I do not have an honest answer why the manual states use 80w or JD303 since these two oils are night and day different.

Maybe JD303 (whatever that is) works for both, but 80W isn't right for hydraulics.

I'll get the TSC oil you suggested. So happens I just got a TSC gift card!

Given how nasty things surely are in that case, would you try to flush it out? Someone suggested ATF. But I'm thinking that's a lot of money to stir up crud that's probably happily settled right where it is. (And from what I can see, things aren't a total wreck. The PTO bearings look just fine, anyway.)

--
Neal

buickanddeere · May 4, 2015

Is there front snout drive on the crank that could operate a front mounted oil pump? Or is there a place to mount a belt automotive power steering pump ?
Usually such drastic measures are frowned upon but given that this a 1010 , all is fair.

nails1 · May 4, 2015

(quoted from post at 10:54:16 05/04/15)
Is there front snout drive on the crank that could operate a front mounted oil pump?

Yeah, it had a front-end loader. Running it heavy over rough ground is what busted so much cast-iron. I even still have that pump -- just have to rig a reservoir.

But I'd really rather just hook up the pump god intended and be done with it. I'll just have to see what actually works.

1010 hydraulic pump

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