Re: JD M quik-tatch mid mount linkage

M-MAN

Well-known Member
Location
Bostic, NC
The rod should be 15 inches outside to outside. Here are the instructions for setting your plow. You'll need to print it to read.
M2Plow-1001.jpg" width= "650"

M2Plow-2001.jpg" width= "650"

M2Plow-3001.jpg" width= "650"

M2Plow-4001.jpg" width= "650"
 
Thanks M-Man. Will have a read. 15" total length would be 14" center to center, an inch shorter than I am now. That will raise the rear of the plow in both situations.... Anyway, will read the manual.
 
Adjusting the rod will not help. The info M-Man provided spells it all out. I think you may want to look at buying the rod instead of using one that is home made. The rod has some bends in it that I think play an important part in the operation of the plow, especially some of the area's you are talking about. I believe I have an extra rod for a M that I would sell. There is a difference as well between the M & MT yoke and rod so make sure you are getting the right thing. Many people on ebay sell them as being "interchangable" and they are not.

I have a 2 bottom plow I use with my MT and the tail wheel does not get more than a few inches off the ground either no matter what settings I use on the plow, yoke or rod. I actually do not care for using the tail wheels. I have 3 sitting at my place I have removed because they can also tend to act as a gauge wheel not allowing good depth. I have found this to be especially true on the 1 bottom plow.

I am mounting my 1 bottom right now for spring plowing and I will try and post a few pictures. I can't promise it will be tonight though!
 
The rod that I made replicates what I've seen in pictures and on a tractor at a show. Measurements are not exact, but close, but it is adjustable if needed. Bends or straight, center to center distance is the only thing that really matters. The only reason there's a bend is so it can clear the foot rest.

The depth control linkage I have is for an M, though the seller listed it as M, MT, and MC. :shock: I made sure to check that I was getting the right one.

After reading what M-Man posted, I realised that I have the rod in the wrong hole at the depth control end of things. The hole I have it in is for the M1 plow, apparently. Would this give me this goofy operation?

Looking at the footage again, I can see that the wheel is usually only turning because it is contacting the side of the furrow. This means that 2nd point is below the wheel depth, and I know that 1st point is below that. Instead of being level in the ground, it's trying to dig in with the front, and keep the back most of the way out.

Anyway, now that the ground is loose, I plan to run the tiller over it. Might try out the plow again afterwards to see if changing some things will make it any better.
 
For those of you more visual...



Tractor is in same condition I got it in. Haven't had a chance to make it look proper.

So, as you can see, touch-o-matic is about halfway. I found this gave about 4-5 inches depth at front share. Depth control arm is against bottom of linkage. Wheel is up in the air. You can see the rod I made, yes, in the wrong hole.
 
Top hole is for normal plowing & bottom is for chicken scratching. Considering how close they are that one inch might make a difference but I don't know. Looking in the parts section of the manual it lists that rod as 18 inches long? Don't know if they changed it mid production or what but mine is only 15. The only bend on that plow rod is the ends so they will go in the holes. See pic on page 7. The wheel is doing what it's supposed to - limiting landside wear. You can raise it to increase rate of drop or lower it to decrease it. It won't affect how deep it go's just how fast it gets there. If I understand correctly your plow isn't level with the rear plow being high. Correct that with the leveling screw. Set correctly the first furrow will alway's be the shallow one. That's because you are going to drop your right wheels in the second furrow on the next pass. That will lower the front plow. The second pass is where you measure your furrows and adjust the leveling screw so they will be the same. Check it again on the third pass just to be sure. You won't have to mess with it again unless you hit a different field with a different terrain and only slightly then.
 
I think I may drive the one side of the tractor up on a block (to simulate being in a furrow), then adjust things to get it close. Can always do some fine tuning once it's in the ground and I can see what the changes have done. Probably my best bet at this point.

Thanks for all your help so far guys. Will check back again once I have some results.
 
I looked at the picture and it is hard to tell but it kind of looks like the main beam of the plow as on top of the metal rod that goes through the yoke instead of between the bottom and bracket AND the rod. I have done this before when hooking up the plow and it makes for some awful performance. Not sure if this is indeed the case because I could not zoom in on the picture well.
 
Last year I plowed a few rows before I noticed when I backed over the plow the main beam did not end up in the right spot on the yoke so I wanted to make sure that wasn't the issue. Sometimes you get so excited to go use the tractor you forget the check the little things, or at least I do!
 
Ha ha! I know the feeling! "OH BOY! OH BOY! OH BOY! I get to drive around on a tractor today! OH BOY! OH BOY!" Next thing you know, you're walking back to the shed for a jerry can of go-go juice. :roll:
 
I used to have a 2 bottom for my M. I too had to make that rod. Borrowed one for a pattern. It did not want to work right until I bolted a 2" thick block of wood onto the U shape part under the tractor. You have an adjustable rod so I'd think you can play with it and make it work right.
 
Tonight I rototilled the garden to loosen it up, went at it again with the plow, this time adjusted. Turned out MUCH better!!! Probably had to do with the loose soil as well. Now I'm off to put the 3 point hitch on for the cultivator!
 
Now I remember! I went out and checked to make sure! Mine was farmerized some 40+ years ago and I had forgotten.(before it was mine) A piece of angle iron was added to the U. It has 5 holes bored through both with 3/8 bolts going through 2 & 5/8 galvanized pipe spacers between the U and the angle iron. Just enough room for the beam with a little wiggle room and the bolts hold the plow side to side where you want it.
 
Gotta love the old farmer fix using whatever is on hand at the moment. I get to see lots of that stuff at work.
 
I put my 1 bottom on last night and "edged" our two small plots at our house. I hope to start plowing in earnest tonight. My phone was full so I couldn't get any pictures of how I have things set up. Glad to hear yours worked better!
 
The result of last night. Don't look too horrible. I'm basically standing on a big elm stump. That's where the roots are coming from. Was surprised at what this little tractor could pull up!

 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top