Re: Pics of Cab Tear-Down

We have a 4520 with the 4620 engine and I would love a sound guard cab. Ours was a fender tractor and last fall I bought a roll-guard and roof with the correct fenders for it. The only problem was I had to buy the 3020 gas powershift that it was on to get it.That 3020 looked funny with those big fenders and that roll-guard.Keep us posted as I would like to do that to my 4520 someday. Tom
a179951.jpg
 
Kinda worried about your "cabin fever" I don't see much there for a cab!HEHE Why the axle housings, that ole girl looks like its in pretty good shape.
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:15 02/12/15) Kinda worried about your "cabin fever" I don't see much there for a cab!HEHE Why the axle housings, that ole girl looks like its in pretty good shape.

I bought those housings for one specific reason. 3rd pic might give it a way though.
 
(quoted from post at 19:33:39 02/12/15)
(quoted from post at 19:27:15 02/12/15) Kinda worried about your "cabin fever" I don't see much there for a cab!HEHE Why the axle housings, that ole girl looks like its in pretty good shape.

I bought those housings for one specific reason. 3rd pic might give it a way though.

Mounting points for the cab.....



What do I win??
 

Way back in the 80's I had a customer that had a 4430 that originally was an open station that he installed a SGB on using clamps around rear axle housing to hold the rear cab mounts.
 
What do I win??

You win the prize. I seriously thought about making brackets for around the axles Jim, as that would def. be easier than swapping housings. But the more I thought about it, the more I wanted that clean look with one bolt holding the cab down. So I though I'd give that a shot first. I got a decent deal on the housings so that helped seal the deal. Hope to have them swapped soon.
 
Your doing a very nice job on the fabricating..I'm working on a similar project now.. for the plumbing you should get a HFWD manifold off a 4440 or similar at a salvage yard they mount up under the front of the engine, then just follow the schematic of one of those tractors..
 
You might not be aware but while you're at the salvage yard
you need to get the gearing from a tractor if you intend to
use the axle. Tractors are geared differently than combines
because of lower hyd pressure.
Luckily you have a PS as synchro switches are usually bad and
I think not available.
As a matter of fact you are going to need a lot of junkyard pieces.
Nice work so far though.
If you can find a 20 series tractor to look at would help you a lot.
 
(quoted from post at 10:00:59 04/19/15) You might not be aware but while you're at the salvage yard
you need to get the gearing from a tractor if you intend to
use the axle. Tractors are geared differently than combines
because of lower hyd pressure.
Luckily you have a PS as synchro switches are usually bad and
I think not available.
As a matter of fact you are going to need a lot of junkyard pieces.
Nice work so far though.
If you can find a 20 series tractor to look at would help you a lot.

That is the next hurdle, getting it all plumbed up. And no I don't have the luxury of one to look at. Wish I did. So if anyone has any pics of the valves or lines, that would be great. I did order a larger pump so that should help. Since parts are so expensive, I'm trying to use what I have, which is the selenoid valve from the combine rather than all the tractor valves. Looking in the book, the parts diagrams of the 20 series circuits are complex and hard to follow. I am looking to simplify it somewhat.
 
4 inch pump only provides more volume not pressure.
You will need the valve Tim mentioned and the
switches.
Combines didn't need that since they ran on
hydrostat pressure not lower hydraulic pressure
of tractors.
Also what about reverse?
Perhaps you should have oil in the wheels and not
have them functional. Would still look cool.
 
(quoted from post at 12:52:48 04/19/15) 4 inch pump only provides more volume not pressure.
You will need the valve Tim mentioned and the
switches.
Combines didn't need that since they ran on
hydrostat pressure not lower hydraulic pressure
of tractors.
Also what about reverse?
Perhaps you should have oil in the wheels and not
have them functional. Would still look cool.

The larger pump was merely to make sure there would be adequate flow to the rest of the tractor if some of the flow is diverted to the front wheels. I'm certain the pfd tractors had the larger pump, so I thought it would be necessary. The problem with finding the other valve is that there are many other parts involved and having no experience with them makes it hard knowing what to purchase. There are countless lines and harnesses and I don't know where they go (maybe I can hire tim to come over and bring everything I need and put it on)
But basically I just want it to turn on and off. I am not too concerned with reverse at this point. All I'm looking for is additional pull in the 5-6mph range. The combine axle is a fixed parallel circuit. I figured I would do some speed tests to see if I should keep it parallel or make it series instead. A simple on/off switch would control the valve selenoid, with maybe a couple built-in limit switches. If all else fails, then I can cap off the fittings and run it 2wd. I did check the hubs for oil and they are 1/2 full so that was good. Overall, thereis very little wear on the entire axle which is pretty nice. Appreciate your interest so far.
 
Yes the hyd front tractors required the 4" pump
to supply enough volume for those motors.
You're still ignoring the fact that you don't
have enough pressure to run that combine front.
You need to change those gears.
Those fronts were just meant as an assist when
geared right.
I would just cap them until you could locate the
parts needed to make it work.
 

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