Deere 219 compression test procedure

CAEMI

Member
Does anyone know the procedure for testing compression on a Deere 219 four cylinder (its in a 2440)?

I've got a 300 psi Mac compression tester with the correct adapter...just can't find the process in the Deere technical reference.
 
Is 300 psi enough ?

I'd think you would pull all the injectors and start down the line and install the adapter and crank it a few times and so on. Just like a gas engine. If you have an electric shut off on the pump I'd unhook the wire if manual I'd secure the shut off cable in the off position. This would stop any fuel from being sprayed around.
 
(quoted from post at 16:05:11 04/16/15) Is 300 psi enough ?

I'd think you would pull all the injectors and start down the line and install the adapter and crank it a few times and so on. Just like a gas engine. If you have an electric shut off on the pump I'd unhook the wire if manual I'd secure the shut off cable in the off position. This would stop any fuel from being sprayed around.

You're correct...I looked at the wrong one. It is 1000 psi. The other gauge is for gas motors.

Closing the fuel supply is a good idea...it is a mechanical pump and would spray fuel everywhere. I still need the bleed procedures for when I connect everything back up.
 
If it ran before then the filters and pump should not of gotten air in them. I would think hooking it all back up and leaving the lines loose at the injectors and then crank until fuel comes out then tighten them up. Make sure you have the shut off back on.
 
(quoted from post at 17:57:27 04/16/15) I would destroke the front hydraulic pump to help keep cranking speed up

Not only do I NOT know how to destroke the pump...I don't think I know where it is! Can you help me out!
 

It runs very nicely...just smokes more than I like but, oddly, does not seem to burn oil. Never have to add any but seems to have a lot of blow-by out the crankcase breather pipe. I'm just trying to isolate the problem before I tear it down.

Honestly, I'm worried about a broken ring in one cylinder more than overall wear. Only has about 2400 hours on it.
 
With a nozzle tester. Sort of looks like a hand operated jack with a gauge but made for nozzles.
Many tractor dealers have the nozzle testers and then there is always the injection pump specialty shops they can test them too. If you have a local JD dealer maybe you could get them tested for free if you buy many parts there or at a reasonable charge ?
I'd also test any new ones before installing them too.
 
(quoted from post at 16:35:53 04/17/15) With a nozzle tester. Sort of looks like a hand operated jack with a gauge but made for nozzles.
Many tractor dealers have the nozzle testers and then there is always the injection pump specialty shops they can test them too. If you have a local JD dealer maybe you could get them tested for free if you buy many parts there or at a reasonable charge ?
I'd also test any new ones before installing them too.

You gave me an idea...called a pal of mine that is a counterman at the NH dealer. I'll have him check them for me.

Question, though - the engine runs like a swiss watch. No stumbles, makes good power. All is does is blow smoke. At a slow idle - just ticking over - it blows a lot of blue smoke. At higher RPM is lessens to the point you have to look for it...you can see some smoke but not like when it is idling. I'm thinking broken ring, heavy wear, etc. This perplexes me some because it runs so nice. Any ideas?? I do have a couple of o-rings leaking at the injector pump throttle shaft...kind of seeps fuel out. Not a ton but enough to see its wet. Easy fix but I can't see how that would affect the engine in any way. Am I mistaken here?
 
(quoted from post at 17:58:47 04/17/15) Maybe the valve guides are shot from dirty air ??? I had a gas model 1020 that way.

That crossed my mind, too. That is the reason to do the compression test and, if the CT doesn't reveal the problem, I'll do a leakdown test.
 

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