John Deere 2010 Hydraulic Issues

Tony Heaser

New User
I just purchased a 2010 and after 1 day of use, I am having hydraulic issues. The power steering works effortlessly, the 3 point raises very slowly, and I have to increase the RPM to get it to go up, and the loader will lift approximately half way, but will hardly lift any weight. Any ideas?
 
Welcome to YT.
Check hyd oil level. There's a plug on RH that would be by your heel when sitting in seat. Oil should be even with opening.

I'm sorry to inform you but JD 2010 hyd's don't have a very good history nor does the rest of the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 05:07:45 04/08/15) I agree with TxJim. The 2010s seemed to have some kind of problem all the time

Great, not what I wanted to hear....so is the hydraulic fluid fill plug look like a bolt or is it something else? I've read about cleaning the filter as well, has anyone done that to cure a similar problem
 

Check plug is parts key 9. Hyd filter(screen) is a pita to get clean. Use a solvent such as brake cleaner.
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" I've read about cleaning the filter as well, has anyone done that to cure a similar problem " Yes, been their, done that. What you describe is a sign to clean the filter as it is starving the pump of oil, as Tx Jim says its a PITA to clean. It's a micro fabric screen and will be covered by a waxy substance. It will allow light through and still not allow oil to pass easily. So when you think it is clean, you can check it by standing it up and pouring oil into it. If it is slow to run out it is not clean.. I use hot, hot, hot water with soap to melt the wax
and air to dislodge the particles of wax and rinse really good / dry. If that does not fix the problem you may need to clean the proportioning valve, but try the filter first.
 
(quoted from post at 09:29:56 04/08/15) " I've read about cleaning the filter as well, has anyone done that to cure a similar problem " Yes, been their, done that. What you describe is a sign to clean the filter as it is starving the pump of oil, as Tx Jim says its a PITA to clean. It's a micro fabric screen and will be covered by a waxy substance. It will allow light through and still not allow oil to pass easily. So when you think it is clean, you can check it by standing it up and pouring oil into it. If it is slow to run out it is not clean.. I use hot, hot, hot water with soap to melt the wax
and air to dislodge the particles of wax and rinse really good / dry. If that does not fix the problem you may need to clean the proportioning valve, but try the filter first.
So I cleaned the filter and now the loader works great, but the three point will not move. When I removed the filter there was a small peice of metal that looked like a peice of a roll pin that came out as well. Any ideas
 
"If that does not fix the problem you may need to clean the proportioning valve". Next you need to clean and inspect the proportioning valve, key 35 in Tx Jim picture, it may be plugged or the spring maybe damaged, it's on the rt front of the transmission cover. Look in the round hole above the foot board, behind the supply pipe to the rear remote. Remove the cover and then pull the coil wire to the distributor, so the engine won't start and crank the engine to pump fluid out to clear the internal passage to it..BTW stuff a couple of rags to catch the oil, you don't want it to get all over the clutch. It to is a pain to remove and reinstall because of the access, it's spring loaded and tough to hold in place. If you are having trouble getting it back in place you can unhook the supply to the remote cylinder valve to get it out of the way and cut some all thread rod longer than the bolts. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Post back and let me know how it's going. By chance it does not work throw a gauge on the remote cylinder hook up and get a pressure reading.
 
(reply to post at 09:20:20 04/09/15)
I put a gauge on it and it's reading 1500 psi and about 10 gallons per minute flow from the rear remote. When the hydraulic lever on the left is in neutral, I can still run the loader and according to the manual that shouldn't be happening. I am wondering if the valve that all the levers connect to has something to do with my issue. I am going to take out the proportioning valve and inspect it this afternoon. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far
 
I took off the proportioning valve cover and spring. After running fluid out, a part shot out of the hole. It was round, had two hole is the side, and a hole down the center where the spring sat in. I cleaned it and re installed. Hydraulics work great still except for the three point, it won't move at all. The lever on the left is working properly now with the forward reverse neutral functions of the hydraulics. Not sure what to checks next. The hydraulic lever cables that operate the three point are operating correctly, I can't visibly see anything wrong any where
 
First off 1500 is good. " When the hydraulic lever on the left is in neutral, I can still run the loader and according to the manual that shouldn't be happening. I am wondering if the valve that all the levers connect to has something to do with my issue." Yes that could affect the situation. How/ where was the loader plumbed in to the hydraulics ? Working off rear remotes, with the valve tied open or plumbed off top of the control valve under dash ? Try this, hold lever to 3 Pt to raise position and at the same time raise loader, see if 3Pt raises after loader reaches it's max height. Please report your findings, I'm sure we can find whats wrong..
 
Ok, so I tried raising bucket while holding three point, again nothing. So the weird part is that before I cleaned the filter, the Three point was working but slow, and the bucket would barely work. Now, the bucket will lift the tractor off the ground and the three point does not work at all. I ordered a filter which is supposed to be here today. I am starting to think I either still have a partially restricted filter or something plugged somewhere.
So the loader is plumbed into one of the rear hydraulic ports and the return goes back into the transmission on the right side. I can close off the loader line and the three point still does not move. The power steering functions but does get easier at higher rpm. I did finally find the pro portioning valve( yesterday I took apart the valve that the hydraulic valves go into and cleaned it). I will try and replace the filter and fluid, and if that doesn't work, I will take apart the pro portioning valve. I am Leary taking the pro portioning valve apart because of the tight working area but I will if I have to. So to recap, the bucket operates correctly , the brakes operate correctly, the power steering works, but works better at higher rpm , and the three point does not move at all. I cleaned the filter and added the old fluid back in. I am going to replace the fluid and filter with new. Am i on the right track or am I missing something obvious? Sorry for the long post.
 
Tony
Yes, you are on the right track, by all means replace the filter and oil. Then with the loader on the ground, unhook the supply to the loader, put the rear remote lever in the center/ neutral position. The power steering should steer easy with out running up the RPM's and the 3 PT should work. If the 3 PT does not raise their is a test port under the seat. Take off the seat and the plate under it. On the rt, front side of the opening their is a plug. remove it and install pressure gauge, it is in the top left of picture, to take a reading while operating the dash control and report back your findings.
a188711.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 00:50:15 04/11/15) Tony
Yes, you are on the right track, by all means replace the filter and oil. Then with the loader on the ground, unhook the supply to the loader, put the rear remote lever in the center/ neutral position. The power steering should steer easy with out running up the RPM's and the 3 PT should work. If the 3 PT does not raise their is a test port under the seat. Take off the seat and the plate under it. On the rt, front side of the opening their is a plug. remove it and install pressure gauge, it is in the top left of picture, to take a reading while operating the dash control and report back your findings.
a188711.jpg

Ok, will do. I will hopefully get that done on Sunday. When I fill the fluid back up, can I will through the port behind the seat on top of the 3 point). There's an access cap there that's much easier to get to rather than taking off the floor pan to get to the fill plug. Unless there's another easy fill location that I am missing??
 


Also, when I close off the hydraulic line from the rear port that runs the loader, it really bogs down the engine, is that because it needs a flow through the system through the loader control valves
 
(quoted from post at 02:59:22 04/11/15)

Also, when I close off the hydraulic line from the rear port that runs the loader, it really bogs down the engine, is that because it needs a flow through the system through the loader control valves

Yes open center hyd oil needs to run in loop from pump through the valve to the reservoir. Yes you can pour the hyd oil into the rockshaft housing hole.
 
Yes, as TX Jim and you say it needs to flow through the system. When you remove the loader supply and put the remote dash valve in the center / neutral position it should flow through the valve back into the system with out bogging down the system!! That's how it works normally on this tractor. The way you describe your set up, the PO ( previous owner )has allowed the oil a continuous flow out of the system by returning the oil to the side of the transmission, in to the fill / oil level check hole. This is wrong as the oil will take the path of least resistance and NOT build the pressure needed to make the 3 PT function. In a normal situation you would need to hold open the rear remote valve to divert the oil supply to the loader, to operate it and the 3PT would not operate during this time.. To operate the 3 PT you would need to center / return the valve to its neutral position, which would isolate the loader from the system, This allows the oil to flow through the remote valve, down into the internal passage way of the front transmission cover and back the the rear rock shaft via tube to the rock shaft and flow back in to the system at that location from the valve body. With out any load on the 3Pt it may appear as if it is working in the current system but it is not. So, you need to disconnect the loader from the system, find whats stopping the free flow of oil through the remote control valve, it may require you to rebuild the valve body, heaven only knows what the PO has done to it. Now you begin to see why all the drama about the 2010, people over look the facts of poor maintenance and butchery causing the problems.. a little TLC is needed to correct the problems. Do you have a manual for the tractor ? I highly recommend you obtain the JD manual over the IT ( I's in trouble manual ).LOL.. Sorry this is getting long, so check it out and post back. You can send me an E-mail if you would like my E-mail is open as this topic is moving down the pages fast or start a new thread to bring it back up yo the current page, your choice.
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:13 04/11/15) You can send me an E-mail if you would like my E-mail is open as this topic is moving down the pages fast or start a new thread to bring it back up yo the current page, your choice.

Replied to threads rising to the top of the 1st page is ONE of the BIG ADVANTAGES of the Modern view over the outdated Classic view. One doesn't need to start a new thread on the same subject to keep the topic close to the TOP of the 1st page. Also Jo Bird just for a FYI your email isn't OPEN on Modern view.
 
(quoted from post at 03:59:22 04/11/15)

Also, when I close off the hydraulic line from the rear port that runs the loader, it really bogs down the engine, is that because it needs a flow through the system through the loader control valves

Careful . Without a pressure relief valve and by restricting the flow as such. The hydraulic pump will fail. Pumps are exceedingly difficult to find parts for.
 
(quoted from post at 12:20:20 04/09/15) "If that does not fix the problem you may need to clean the proportioning valve". Next you need to clean and inspect the proportioning valve, key 35 in Tx Jim picture, it may be plugged or the spring maybe damaged, it's on the rt front of the transmission cover. Look in the round hole above the foot board, behind the supply pipe to the rear remote. Remove the cover and then pull the coil wire to the distributor, so the engine won't start and crank the engine to pump fluid out to clear the internal passage to it..BTW stuff a couple of rags to catch the oil, you don't want it to get all over the clutch. It to is a pain to remove and reinstall because of the access, it's spring loaded and tough to hold in place. If you are having trouble getting it back in place you can unhook the supply to the remote cylinder valve to get it out of the way and cut some all thread rod longer than the bolts.
Hopefully this will solve the problem. Post back and let me know how it's going. By chance it does not work throw a gauge on the remote cylinder hook up and get a pressure reading.

Jo Bird, is the cover for the valve inside the clutch cover from under the tractor or in the right side of the body from the outside? I have a similar loader issue I have been working through and want to variety I do not have a slug in the seat prevent a seal.

Thank you, Greg
 
It's in the right side of the clutch housing.
Sorry the picture is on it's side.. You can remove steel line to make removing cover easier and I made studs from all thread rod to ease putting it back together. Throw a couple of rags under it to catch the oil, spring and valve that will pop out once the cover is removed. Pay attention to the order the valve and spring. Unhook the coil wire, so the engine will not start and run the engine via the starter to clear the internal passages in the front housing.
a188889.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 01:00:05 04/13/15) It's in the right side of the clutch housing.
Sorry the picture is on it's side.. You can remove steel line to make removing cover easier and I made studs from all thread rod to ease putting it back together. Throw a couple of rags under it to catch the oil, spring and valve that will pop out once the cover is removed. Pay attention to the order the valve and spring. Unhook the coil wire, so the engine will not start and run the engine via the starter to clear the internal passages in the front housing.
a188889.jpg

Thank you for the response. I know the round cover you have in the photo. I don't remember mine having a bolt or screw holding it on. What retains that cover?
 
" I know the round cover you have in the photo. I don't remember mine having a bolt or screw holding it on. What retains that cover? "
That's a very good question, because all the tractor's seem to be missing it..the hole is their so the operator could grease the throw out bearing. They either fell off or were taken off and never replaced. If you have one and are trying to remove it, you can take off the rectangle cover on the bottom of the case and you maybe able to shine a light up to the back side of the hole to see whats holding it on or reach up with your arm / hand and feel around.. But if my old memory is correct it has a couple of flat 5/8" wide band steel spring material in an X pattern that hold it on.. Sorry just not sure on that one.. BTW, did you solve your hdy problem ?
 
(quoted from post at 10:19:05 04/13/15) " I know the round cover you have in the photo. I don't remember mine having a bolt or screw holding it on. What retains that cover? "
That's a very good question, because all the tractor's seem to be missing it..the hole is their so the operator could grease the throw out bearing. They either fell off or were taken off and never replaced. If you have one and are trying to remove it, you can take off the rectangle cover on the bottom of the case and you maybe able to shine a light up to the back side of the hole to see whats holding it on or reach up with your arm / hand and feel around.. But if my old memory is correct it has a couple of flat 5/8" wide band steel spring material in an X pattern that hold it on.. Sorry just not sure on that one.. BTW, did you solve your hdy problem ?

No Bird, no luck with the lift issue. I rebut the lift cylinders, the seals were wore out. I am down to looking for and flushing the relief valves. I will try to boost the pressure with shims once I ensure i do not have a bad valve seat. My control valves are suspect also. I may replace them in this process to take that off the list of causes. I may have to remove the hyd. pump to check the valve on the bottom of the pump. The valve under the steering column may also need to come out to be services properly. I would love to have this little tractor lift a bucket of snow or a partial load of soil. If it can't be solved I may need to take more aggressive action. Really don't want to have to go out and find another model.

Greg
 
Greg
I'm at a disadvantage here, the more information I can get, the more useful my answers will be to help you solve the problems with the hydraulics. What is the year and serial number of your tractor. Does it have power steering? How is the loader plumbed to the tractor, both power and return lines hook where? This system being an open system any leakage will effect pressure building to some extent. It's best to start by unhooking the loader to diagnose the system and then add it back later. Knowing the history of the tractor will also help, have you owned it for some time or did you just purchase it?
We can continue here or you can send me an Email which would be easier for me to keep track of.
Jo
 
(quoted from post at 10:11:27 04/15/15) This system being an open system any leakage will effect pressure building to some extent. It's best to start by unhooking the loader to diagnose the system and then add it back later.
Jo

Jo
Since hyd oil on an open center system circulates in series I fail to see how the loader or other hyd control valves could ""leak significant enough to affect correct operation. IMHO only a faulty pump,relief valve or diverter valve would affect the operation.
 
(quoted from post at 11:11:27 04/15/15) Greg
I'm at a disadvantage here, the more information I can get, the more useful my answers will be to help you solve the problems with the hydraulics. What is the year and serial number of your tractor. Does it have power steering? How is the loader plumbed to the tractor, both power and return lines hook where? This system being an open system any leakage will effect pressure building to some extent. It's best to start by unhooking the loader to diagnose the system and then add it back later. Knowing the history of the tractor will also help, have you owned it for some time or did you just purchase it?
We can continue here or you can send me an Email which would be easier for me to keep track of.
Jo

Jo, I have a '61 2010 Row crop utility SN RU19558. I have only owned it since September '14. It was farmed and downsized to lite duty by the prior owner. The 3 point works very well and I pulled a back blade for the driveway last winter. It has a 35 loader plumbed from the optional plate installed in top of the control valve under the steering column with quick disconnects inline to the two Char Lynn valves. Both pressure and return are connected to the plate bolted on top of the control valve. The power steering works well and I have tested the breakaway valves with a brand new hose and gage at @1325 psi. The bucket has aftermarket cylinders and when rolled down will lift the front end quickly. The lift arm cylinders are the factory 2" and have been rebuilt with new JD seals which were very worn. No change in performance after the rebuild, they will not lift a load in the bucket. I have not tested the psi at the loader controls as I swapped the lines from the bucket control with the lift arms and the bucket will still lift the tractor and the lift arms will not. I will test the psi soon and intend to inspect and flush the relief valves I know of. I've had the seat off and inspected inside the top of the rock arms (single style) no issues identified. No fluid leaks visa lemon any of the lines, fittings, cylinders and only a little fluid present at the top of the loader control valves. With all the inspecting I've done I think I have a bypass valve somewhere that is weeping, a check valve that is not seated or the char Lynn control valves are shot. The control valve under the steering may be part of the issue as I have inspected the driver valve there yet. If you need additional detail please let me know.

I have pulled the round cover the the pressure valve cover on my pump is flat with no spring boss above the bolt heads. I'd a mess in there but no current evidence of free liquids. I think I will remove the lower cover and flush out the area and see if anything jumps out at me before I address servicing the valve.
 
I just changed pumps on a 2010, ran a couple of hours and lost everything. Changed filters and got everything back. Filters are expensive but will inhibit fluid flow massively. My old pump had no power and I have several extra as I junked 3 of these tractors. My fluid always looks milky no matter how much I change it. Brakes are extremely poor, but all in all I have had good service from the old thing.
 
Greg
Sounds as if you have done a good job of investigating. From what you report, power steering is okay, rear remote produces 1325 psi and the 3 pt works, I agree with your assessment that your problem lies between the loader valve and the lift cylinders. Notice I said between the valve and the cylinders. Since you reportedly switched the tilt and lift cylinder hoses with out any effect on the operation of the lift cylinder I feel the valve is good. That only leaves the question of an internal blockage in one of the hoses. To check for the blockage place your gauge on a tee and insert it at each connection starting at the valve outlet to the lift cylinders and continue till you loose the pressure reading.
The blockage will be between the last connection checked and where you loose pressure. The only other possibility would be if the cups/ seals in the cylinder were faulty.
" I have pulled the round cover the the pressure valve cover on my pump is flat with no spring boss above the bolt heads. I"d a mess in there but no current evidence of free liquids. I think I will remove the lower cover and flush out the area and see if anything jumps out at me before I address servicing the valve." This statement is puzzling to me. FYI their were 2 style of priority valve used on the 2010, The one in my picture and the one with the flat cover as you describe. It"s located on the cover over the front of the transmission not on the pump. Since you have a functioning 3 pt and remote their is no need to open it up. Hope this helps, let us know if you have any more questions..
Jo
 
Jim
" IMHO only a faulty pump,relief valve or diverter valve would affect the operation. " If their was no pressure detected in the systems I could agree with you, but, we have two completely different systems in question. But both systems in question are reporting pressure in their systems.

Lets look at Gregs first, His is a complete open center system circulating in series. He says power steering is okay, rear remote is okay and 3 pt is okay. The tractor standing alone is functioning as it should. Only the loader lift is not working. With his investigation he has ruled out, that the loader valve is at fault. IMHO an internal blockage of the rubber hose to the lift cylinder or by passing with in the cylinder would likely be his problem.

Now Tony has stated that " Now, the bucket will lift the tractor off the ground and the three point does not work at all. I ordered a filter which is supposed to be here today. I am starting to think I either still have a partially restricted filter or something plugged somewhere.
So the loader is plumbed into one of the rear hydraulic ports and the return goes back into the transmission on the right side. I can close off the loader line and the three point still does not move". Note that the loader is plumbed into one of the rear hydraulic ports and the return goes back into the transmission on the right side. This will operate the loader,but, if the rear remote is tied open the 3 pt will not work as he has now by passed the series circuit feeding the 3 pt by dumping into the side of the transmission. Then he says " I can close off the loader line and the three point still does not move". In this position he has power steering and pressure at the rear remote. IMHO he has a problem with the valves on the rock-shaft assembly.

Several years ago I had a similar problem with my brothers tractor. After cleaning the filter, fixing the proportioning valve spring, the power steering came back and the rear remote had pressure. But the 3pt did not work until I tore it apart to find a home made pin installed by the previous owner. Luckily his was a split rock-shaft so I had the pin from the other valve assembly to copy. Once it was replaced and new seals installed it worked great.

So, that's MHO. Hopefully Greg and Tony will let us know the final results.
 
(quoted from post at 01:04:08 04/16/15) Greg
Sounds as if you have done a good job of investigating. From what you report, power steering is okay, rear remote produces 1325 psi and the 3 pt works, I agree with your assessment that your problem lies between the loader valve and the lift cylinders. Notice I said between the valve and the cylinders. Since you reportedly switched the tilt and lift cylinder hoses with out any effect on the operation of the lift cylinder I feel the valve is good. That only leaves the question of an internal blockage in one of the hoses. To check for the blockage place your gauge on a tee and insert it at each connection starting at the valve outlet to the lift cylinders and continue till you loose the pressure reading.
The blockage will be between the last connection checked and where you loose pressure. The only other possibility would be if the cups/ seals in the cylinder were faulty.
" I have pulled the round cover the the pressure valve cover on my pump is flat with no spring boss above the bolt heads. I"d a mess in there but no current evidence of free liquids. I think I will remove the lower cover and flush out the area and see if anything jumps out at me before I address servicing the valve." This statement is puzzling to me. FYI their were 2 style of priority valve used on the 2010, The one in my picture and the one with the flat cover as you describe. It"s located on the cover so over the front of the transmission not on the pump. Since you have a functioning 3 pt and remote their is no need to open it up. Hope this helps, let us know if you have any more questions..


Jo

Jo,
I tested the lines this evening and found 1300 psi at each of the connections on the loader after the control valves. I replaced all the seals in the lifting cylinders a week ago as I thought it may be blow by. I have replaced all but 3 of the hyd lines so far and I will replace those this weekend if I can find the lines locally. I will also snake out the hard lines at that time. This is frustrating not seeing progress after all this effort, I don't give up easy and will see this through.

Just thinking out loud. If the factory fresh pump was to run at 1450-1550 psi and I'm making 1300 psi could the 150-250 I'm short be enough to cause this lifting condition?
 

Greg
I would not replace hoses just for the sake of it, unless they show significant signs of wear.
As for the 1300 psi, it's about a 13% decrease in pressure, the decrease may be due to a restricted filter and does affect the lifting capacity, but it should at least be enough to raise the loader empty. The lifting capacity of each lift cylinder = psi X piston area. Area = pie ( 3.14 ) x radius squared ( 1" ) = 3.14 piston area. So the the lift capacity is 1300 X 3.14 = 4,082 lbs. each , roughly 4 tons of combined lift. One other possibility could be their is a restriction on the return side of the cylinders. A quick dirty method to check would be to crack the return line at the base of the cylinder and see what happens. If the loader raises it will push out the oil in the cylinder and should stop once it extends fully. Should it continue to pass oil after extending the seals in the cylinder are leaking. If the loader does not raise the restriction is on the lift side, if it raises and does not pass oil the restriction is on the return side. Keep checking and let us know how you make out, their is a solution to this.
 

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