Deere Roosa Master JDB injection pump

CAEMI

Member
I've got a Deere 2440 with a Roosa Master JDB pump. The throttle shaft bushings or seals appear to be leaking. The engine runs perfect...it just drips fuel down the side of the engine. MOST of the problem is when you shut the tractor down. Whatever fuel is left in the pump above the level of the shaft leaks out.

I'm not losing sleep over it but I never could stand leaks of any kind. I've left a pan under the 2440 long enough.

Can anyone point me to the kit to repair this? And, more importantly, how big a deal is this...do I have to line up the timing marks, remove the pump, and tear it down or is the throttle shaft fix relatively minor.

I don't really want to tear apart a pump that is working fine...I'm thinking that will lead to about the same kind of regret one gets from "marrying in haste".

Thanks.
 
I have a 2440 that came in yesterday with the same problem,,the pump cover needs to come off and the throttle shaft clip removed ,letting you pull the shaft out to change the o-ring, I am going to get the ring through Deere parts, if I remember they are a green o-ring and will deal with the newer fuel..
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:53 04/07/15) I have a 2440 that came in yesterday with the same problem,,the pump cover needs to come off and the throttle shaft clip removed ,letting you pull the shaft out to change the o-ring, I am going to get the ring through Deere parts, if I remember they are a green o-ring and will deal with the newer fuel..

Thank you for responding although I can't say I'm glad you've got the same problem!

When you sort out the parts needed, would you mind copying me on them??

Also, when you mention "the pump cover needs to come off", do you mean the part where the fuel return line connects? Do you happen to know what that little "JD" lead seal signifies?

I've uploaded a photo of my pump...is yours leaking at the same location?

mvphoto18862.jpg

mvphoto18863.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:42 04/07/15) Part # through Deere is R76578 for the o-rings

Wow. Is that all that is needed to set this straight?? Two o-rings?

Anything unusual in taking the top off or the shaft out?

And, thank you very much, by the way.
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:28 04/07/15)
Here's the part number for the gasket.
T11918 Gasket - PACKING, GOVERNOR HOUSING COVER ADD 4.63 USD

Thanks again, Jim. Parts are on order...get 'em Friday.
 
I'm not sure there is enough clearance to remove
the inner shaft.
If you have to remove the pump you should use the
complete kit. If those orings are worn out there's
a good chance the plaqsticast ring is also deteriorated.
 
If not enough clearance mark the pump flange to timing cover, loosen mtg bolts and turn pump away from block. MIGHT work.
 
(quoted from post at 02:58:20 04/08/15) If not enough clearance mark the pump flange to timing cover, loosen mtg bolts and turn pump away from block. MIGHT work.

Guys, it looks like if the shaft comes out toward the outside, no problem. But if it must be removed toward the block, no way.

And I also agree that plasticast ring might be disintegrating but the pump looks like somebody was inside it many years ago and I am hoping the reason was that ring.

In any case, I am planning for the worst case and expecting to remove the pump. I have read the JD tech manual on the process and it seems pretty easy EXCEPT for this: "...install engine rotation tool", which I do not have.

How do I rotate a high-compression diesel by hand??

Second question: If I decide to replace the plasticast ring, does that necessitate a complete disassembly of the pump??
 
Part of the shaft comes to the outside.
The other end goes toward the block.
Both ends are sealed with orings.
Both orings are probably the same age.
If it's been years ago, it's probably due
again.
Sometimes they will turn by fan while pulling belt tight.
You can pop out plug on LH bell housing
and use a bar against anything you can catch.
Careful not to knock off locks on adj bolts.
Yes you have to disassemble the pump.
I doubt you have the tools or experience for that.
 
(quoted from post at 20:19:41 04/08/15) Part of the shaft comes to the outside.
The other end goes toward the block.
Both ends are sealed with orings.
Both orings are probably the same age.
If it's been years ago, it's probably due
again.
Sometimes they will turn by fan while pulling belt tight.
You can pop out plug on LH bell housing
and use a bar against anything you can catch.
Careful not to knock off locks on adj bolts.
Yes you have to disassemble the pump.
I doubt you have the tools or experience for that.

Couple questions: You mention "careful not to knock off locks on adj bolts". I don't know where or what those are - can you set me straight?

And just to confirm - replacing the o-rings requires a COMPLETE disassembly of the pump?
 
Adjusting bolts on pressure plate while you
are trying to turn flywheel with bar.
Replacing orings does not require complete
disassembly but plasticast ring does.
 
(quoted from post at 23:40:35 04/08/15) Adjusting bolts on pressure plate while you
are trying to turn flywheel with bar.
Replacing orings does not require complete
disassembly but plasticast ring does.

OK - thanks very much. I understand.

In your opinion, do you think I can get the throttle shaft o-rings replaced without removing the pump?

And, by the way, thank you very much for taking the time to help me out. I depend on this tractor and while it runs very well, the leak has always bothered me.
 

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