Re: 5020 not ran in 22 years, not stuck, what next?

Those tractors have a two disk clutch in them. You better plan on splitting it to get it unstuck.

ET has it. I think you are wasting time on freeing clutch.
I've had to destroy stuck disk on smaller tractor to separate
it from flywheel.

Does the tractor have a pto? If so does pto clutch work? If you could hook it to something with a high inertial load
like a big bat wing mower or stalk chopper you could try driving it around and throttle it down suddenly while hitting
the brakes. Might generate enough shear force to free clutch. Just a thought.

Sorry I read initial post and it does say pto runs.

I would hold the clutch down and run it a while in a higher gear , May jerk a
Blake now and then it may come loose , it may not but it's worth trying I also
have used the starter in high gear just bumping the engine sometimes will
loosen the clutch.

Best not to start with existing problems as they seem to multiply.

Thank you for your advice!
I am getting the shop manual, so I can rebuilt the steering column. I have open the bleeder screw at the top of the column and plenty of oil is coming out of there.

For the clutch, the idea of jerking it off might be good. Otherwise I will have to split. But to split it it the clutch would have to slide out anyway, right. So for now I have put PBBlaster on the splines of the clutch.
I cannot drive it around because it does not clutch. I tried to jerk it with the starter but that just stall the starter. So I will jack up the rear axle, start it in eight gear and use the brakes to try to free it up. I doubt that the engine would stall and clutch would still be stuck! If it does then I will have to split for sure!

Two of my tractors have had sticky clutches like this before. One is a 5020 and the other is one of my 6030s. The 5020 will stick if it sits for a few months (it has a brand new clutch). It will shift fine with the engine off, but once started all it does is grind if you try to shift it into gear. I can brake it free by starting it in a low gear and a combination of driving it and pushing the clutch in and holding the brakes. Once it's free, it's usually fine till the end of the season when I put it away. I would call that mildly stuck.

The 6030 only sat for a month or two and for some reason it will not break free no matter what I try. One day it was fine, a month or so later it was stuck solid (much worse than the 5020). An old timer in TN told me that the clutch components draw moisture and will actually rust together. He said that if they get stuck really good and then break fee, that some of the clutch disk material can break apart, with some bits still stuck on the flywheel or separator plate. So if yours has sat for 20 years, I would say that it's stuck solid to the point you will have to repair it, even if it does break free. So I would plan on splitting it. That's what I will have to do with my 6030. The old timer also told me that when they park their 5020s or 6030s for long periods, they will actually wedge a block of wood in to hold the clutch pedal down so there is no pressure forcing the clutch components together. Seems like good advice.

Thank you,
That is what the 4020 operator manual said: Block the clutch in the depressed condition for storage. Then we should all do that!

I got more questions:

In what position should i put the small lever illustrated on the picture if the PTO is not used? Why are the 5010-6030 the only one with that setup?
I assume position is chamfer up or chamfer down?



I got the service manual, but haven't been close to the tractor yet. From what I understood, the steering problems could be from:
- Return Check valve piston stuck
- Some other valve stuck or inlet valve stuck.

I will jack up the front axle and make sure that I got same problem in manual steering mode.


To adjust the set screws, manual said to set the piston 0.003 in. It cannot be flush? I can use some paper shims so it should not be too bad to do. My understanding is just that I have to make sure pressure valve open slightly before return valve and it should all work fine. Agreed?

The 6030 doesn't have the throwout like 5010/20. I don't recall which is which but if you have an owners manual I know it is mentioned there. Might locate mine tomorrow and see what it says.