question about 3020 and 2640

I am looking for a tractor for mowing and baling hay in the $10k price range. Have never had a John Deere tractor, but is the only close dealer now. Saw ad's on TractorHouse for a 3020 diesel power shift (1966 has hyd levers on dash)and a 2640 (yr is not listed, but has 3000 hours) The 2640 has the hi-low option. The 3020 is almost 50 years old, but the 2640 is not new either. Will be used for PTO work only.
Anyone have experience with both? Your opinions would be appreciated.
 
3020 but a 4020 in good shape would be much better.The extra power is always nice and I personally like 6 cyl motors much better.
 

I'd choose a JD rowcrop(3020/4020) over a utility(2630) because straddling the trans on the utility tractor gets very HOT in the Summertime plus rowcrop hyd systems are ""far superior"" to JD utility tractors of that era.
 
Buy a 3020 or 4020. We have 4 3020's and 3 4020's that we use and they are much better than any 2640.And I am speaking from experience as I have sold a good many 2440 and 2640 tractors over the years.
 

The only problem with the 3020 powershift is the PTO will need special care. The pto brake is known to go out on the powershifts. Very expensive to repair properly, involving a double split. If it is OK now, always idle the tractor down before disengaging the pto, and that will help. I've no idea on the 2640 pto reliability.

Adrian
 
(quoted from post at 15:26:29 03/22/15)
I'd choose a JD rowcrop(3020/4020) over a utility(2630) because straddling the trans on the utility tractor gets very HOT in the Summertime plus rowcrop hyd systems are ""far superior"" to JD utility tractors of that era.

Straddling that warm transmission feels pretty good up here where it snows six months of the year.
 
That would work out about right then use them for 6 months and work on them for the other 6 ;^)
 
I'd pick the 3020 over a 2640 or other Dubuque (De-puke?) tractor.

As mentioned, a 4020 might be better. If you wanted a little newer, a 4030, 4230 or 4040 would also be good. As you get newer, they also get more spendy.
 
You mean that you don't like that rattle that all high low tractors seem to have at an idle? Or the fact that if you work them hard they all seem to run hot? Tom
 
I know that I am too hard on these units and some get along with them okay,, It's that I see all the bad in them as they come through the shop, and I have been seeing this "bad" side ever since I was unloading them brand new off the trucks...Darn it...
 
High inertia loads, like a grinder-mixer, silage blower, etc., you must idle the tractor down before shutting off the pto, otherwise you can shear an internal pin, which requires a split to repair.

Had a 3020 Power Shift since 1977, never an issue with that.
 
Regarding idling down beofre shutting off the PTO - Does this apply to newer models such as a 4430 as well? I will idle down below 1500 before engaging the PTO, but have never really thought of idling down to disengage it...

For instance, when spreading manure, I shut off the PTO when I get to a grass waterway. Once past, I idle down, re-engage the PTO, and throttle back up. Typically, I'm running 1500 - 1800 RPM when spreading. I have a Knight 716 side slinger that holds +/-350 bushels heaped and run higher RPMs for maximum throw. Should I be idling down BEFORE I shut the PTO off, too?

Oh, and a vote for a 4020. I like the 3020, but don't like the lack of replacement engines should something "happen". I've driven 2000 series tractors, and learned to drive on a 2950, but I like 4000 series models MUCH better. You can usually get a mid-era 4020 you'd WANT to own for 6000-9000 around here. A 3020 you'd want to own will cost nearly the same
 
(quoted from post at 16:33:30 03/22/15)

Straddling that warm transmission feels pretty good up here where it snows six months of the year.

Most people that live where there's snow on the ground for 6 months chose a tractor with a cab except of course YOU!!!!!!! :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 22:39:45 03/22/15) Regarding idling down beofre shutting off the PTO - Does this apply to newer models such as a 4430 as well? I will idle down below 1500 before engaging the PTO, but have never really thought of idling down to disengage it...

For instance, when spreading manure, I shut off the PTO when I get to a grass waterway.

I think one needs to idle down when turning off pto on any tractor with a pto brake if using an implement that has momentum when operating such as a rotary mower. A manure spreader will not require idling engine during pto shut off.
 
I'd second Jim's comment, but add that your
slinger spreader has a lot of inertia in the flail
discharge mechanism. It would be best t o idle
down.
 
Why do you turn off pto when crossing waterway? We have a Knight 8014 and we just close the door when crossing waterways. Those flails take a fair amount of power starting under load. The Knight sure has a nice spread pattern but takes a long time to unload pen pack manure. Tom
 
I am probably breaking some sort of rule here, but you should also consider the Ford 5900 and the Case 1070 that are on cr**gslist in So. Ill. Both good 1970's tractors, also a bit less on price... Ford looks pretty nice..

John
 
(quoted from post at 06:08:00 03/23/15) Why do you turn off pto when crossing waterway? We have a Knight 8014 and we just close the door when crossing waterways. Those flails take a fair amount of power starting under load. The Knight sure has a nice spread pattern but takes a long time to unload pen pack manure. Tom

That is a fair point. I guess I grew up with a box spreader and that's what I had to do with one of those. Your 8014 is a dream with pen pack versus a 716. It has one unload auger. Mine both have an optional second auger up high to keep the load even, but it doesn't do much as far as tearing manure apart. I have laying hens and only clean out once a year for two or three days - about 30 loads. No bed pack, it does great on poultry litter. I really like the fact that I can spread from an unplowed or planted strip and am able to cover the whole strip by going around it.
 
My in laws have a 2640 with over 20,000 hours on it. It's sat on a mixer wagon on a small dairy most of it's life. Original engine still runs great. It's had multiple clutches, 1 hydraulic pump I know of, a radiator, and that's all I can think of. Doesnot hhave the high/low.

That being said I'd still take a 3020/4020 over a 2640. They are hot when it's hot out. It seems like all the engine heat is blown right on you and the transmission only adds to it. The row crops just seem more comfortable and have a better view of what you're doing. Seem to ride better in the field too.
 

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