1935 model B carburetor question

Howdy,

I am workin on getting this tractor going for a
friend and am having some trouble with the
carburetor. Unfortunately, this is an
expensive rebuilt carburetor (looks new to me
but is rebuilt). The tractor will start and
run but only with the choke on at about 3/4 or
a little more. I cannot get the tractor to
idle down to where I want it. The prior carb
(before an unfortunate accident) had the
tractor running beautifully. It started good,
ran with no choke, and would idle down so slow
you could just about count the fan blades.
What do I need to do with this new carb to get
it right again? Thanks in advance!

Go to www.robertscarbrepair.com and order the DVD how to rebuild DLTX carburetors part 2. Order the appropriate drill bits and a gasket set. Follow the instructions on the video and you will get it done right.

Old, It sounds like you have some passages blocked, probably the idle passage. There is a small passage at the bottom of the stem, often called the "secret" passage, that will cause the symptom you described if it is not open. Unless you clean those out with the proper size drill bits it will not run right. If you lived near me I would do it for you.

What carb do you have?? On the 1935 JD-B you have to have the DLTX-10 or it will not run as it should. Took me years to find the correct carb for my 1935 JD-B and that is also how I learned you had to have that one and nothing else

Well obviously you must have your reasons for not returning the carb for a refund so I won't go into that. Robert Beaver,s own words,( Roberts Carb Repair )quote.."We have one test tractor,a '44 "A", and we test every carb from an "H" to 730 on this tractor and they all run/function just fine,the hp is all that is different" He shows a duplex 730 carb with a shop made adapter on the '44A and it does every function perfectly. I have had everything from a dltx 10 (yours) to a 53 (A), 67 (B) , 71 (A) and even a 63 off a 500 cu. in. "D" and more on my '50 "B" without any problems. A 10 , 34 , 67 will all interchange and all perform fine on your tractor. E-mail me and I will give you my phone # and on the phone I will walk you through diagnosis if you decide to not return it.

Like the other posts said, your description is in adequate. Please advise which model # you have.

dltx-10

Is this carb painted green or is it a bare cast iron color or silvery look? I have reasons for asking. Your carb problem could be one of many things but if you have to choke that much to run then it's fuel starved , if it is doing this just at idle then idle passage plugged and/or air leak around throttle shaft/plate/bushings.

Hi Randy,

I just got in from the shop and messing with the carb. It is a green painted carb. I took each plug out (that I could see) and sprayed cleaner into the passages and blew out with air (also used wire as I do not have the drills that many mentioned...might have to go that route but passages look fairly open, at least enough to get wire through and to have fluid coming out of other places when sprayed or air blasted). I got some brown liquid out a couple times so I sprayed those places till only clean fluid came out. I put the carburetor back together and on the tractor. I adjusted the needles to the book specs and set my throttle at half to start hand cranking. On the first compression stroke I got it to fire right off. I had to play with the choke some again to get it to start and run but once running It still had to be at 3/4 to stay running. This was at all speeds. I am sure I am missing something. Nothing about the tractor has changed since I had the old carb on it. The only change has been this carb.

I am about ready to send it back as you mentioned earlier. My reason for not returning it right away was that this "new" carburetor is a replacement for the original that was on the tractor and which I cracked while re-installing while doing some other work for my friend. I wanted to make it right for him instead of simply patching his old one and sending it back with an ugly bandaid on it. It is a much more expensive way to do it but I wanted to do the right thing. I thought this new carb would run perfectly and that this problem was just a simple hiccup. That's why I hadn't sent it back right away. I didn't really want my friend to have to wait on his tractor any longer. Seems when you try to do the right thing for someone you always get paid back, just not in a good way. Sorry to be cynical, it's just been that kind of week. Thanks for your help in all of this.

Well here's the deal. Even with the throttle LEVER wide open (called fast idle) you are still just running off the idle ports down by throttle plate. they need to be open. Use a needle with the end bent at a 90° angle. The idle secret passage .... take out the little brass screw down about and inch from the bottom of the stem that the bowl fits over. Now stick a wire down the idle adj. needle hole. look through where you took out that screw and you should be able to see that wire end. if you can it's fine. if not then there's about a 1/8-1/4" of rust straight in there and will usually take the drill bit to open it up. Leave the wire right in there and you will see it wiggle when you break through.It's a # 53 bit You might try a sharp pick if you don't have the drill. It's approx. 1/16-3/32". When you choke it you are forcing it to draw fuel up through the main load nozzle to idle or fast idle on. If idle circuit is right, you should be able open throttle lever wide open and with engine at fast idle start slowly closing load needle and it should stay at fast idle with load closed and idle needle 1.5 open. At fast idle the throttle blade is held pretty much closed, it is only open far enough to uncover all the idle ports. Check the throttle shaft for sideways slop closed and open. make sure the load nozzle goes up in the center of carb throat about 1/2". if not it's not installed correctly. Might as well check float level while you are in there. Also free float movement. Let us know what you find. There's a chance that if you tell this builder that you had it apart, he won't warrantee it. Ways to handle that...you will have to decide which way you choose.

Sloppy throttle shafts don't matter unless it's to the point it physically binds which is a safety issue.

Now that I see you have the 10 carburetor, here is my opinion. The 10 has a by pass port. The purpose of which is to prevent a shut down as they used tractor fuel and the tractor would have fouled the plugs shutting down on same. Anyway, it sounds like you have a display piece but in essence was not properly cleared in porting. I would return the carb or I suppose you could pay for a rear rebuilt which will entail removing the plugs and seeing that all the idle circuits are properly cleared. The tractor always runs on the secondary circuit till under load. If I were close I'd show you how to rebuild but yours has just been dressed up.

Randy, I owe you a steak dinner my friend. After following your instructions I discovered a plugged passageway and with the help of some tools got it unplugged and then scratched around in the passage for the idle needle itself and got a bunch more crud out that the air and cleaner weren't touching. After some tuning of the needles I had the B running great. Thanks so much for the help. Now to send some pics and video to this joker who sold me the "new" carburetor and see if I can't get some of my money back. Here are some pictures of what I got out of the carburetor. Thanks again!

Thanks for the pics and post. Doesn't it just make you wonder why someone would go to all the work to get a carb looking that good and obviously not even touch the inside? I guess some just think a "kit" makes them right. Obviously never tested it on anything. Plants the seed of doubt that's hard to overcome by legit builders.I put 1 yr warr. on mine and have never had "the" phone call. I would hope the word gets out about his work (lack of it). Glad ya got her running good. Lots of experience on this board and it all helps.