JD M quik-tatch mid mount linkage

RudyM

Member
Hi guys, first time posting on the forum. Have looked around a bit, but couldn't find too much about this. I'm looking to buy, beg, borrow, steal, or (but most likely) fabricate the mid mount quik-tatch linkage for my JD M. I got the tractor without it, and without knowing it was going to be required for the M2 plow that I was so fortunate to get shortly after getting the tractor. The plan is to plow up a plot for a veggie garden in the spring, so will need something by then.

I've built a 3 point hitch to run my snow blower, but since I have the M plow, instead of a 3pth plow, I need to change it over.

Any help would be much appreciated. At the very least, would need measurements so I can fab something up to work.

Thanks,
Rudy in Ontario, Canada
 
What you need is the plow depth control. Some call it a swinging drawbar. They show up on ebay all the time but are pricey. It must be for an M, an MT is different. Here's a pic from the parts book. You should fab a bolt on three point so you can use either style implement without changing anything except the top link.
a184994.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:32 03/02/15) What you need is the plow depth control. Some call it a swinging drawbar. They show up on ebay all the time but are pricey. It must be for an M, an MT is different. Here's a pic from the parts book. You should fab a bolt on three point so you can use either style implement without changing anything except the top link.
a184994.jpg


A bolt on 3 point won't work so well with a PTO shaft. I've looked at it. Maybe its just the way my blower is built. Either way, my lower arms and brackets come off real quick. Most amount of time is spent with the q-t arm, which will go faster now that its been off and on since the first time ever.

I know how it works, have lots of pictures, but just need dimensions.

Will have a look on eBay as well.
 
Had a quick look on eBay now that I know what its called. $180 & $225, without the link bar, which is an extra $45. All USD, plush shipping, taxes, customs, exchange rate to Canada. No thanks. Will end up being in the range of $450 by the time its all done. I can build my own a lot cheaper, and it won't be worn out already. Will check with a local guy who seems to have a few things, but otherwise looks like I'm gonna get the welder out.
 
Take a look at the diagram below.

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Note the shaft assembly control (Key 1) and the hanger rod (Key 6).

The shaft assembly control is 1.375" OD and the hanger rod is 1" OD.

Take a look at the photos below of the shaft assembly control.

a184996.jpg" width="650"


a184997.jpg" width="650"


a184998.jpg" width="650"


a184999.jpg" width="650"


Take a look at the photo below of the lifting rod (Key 4).

a185000.jpg" width="650"


Take a look at the photo below of the control bar hanger (Key 7).

a185001.jpg" width="650"


All of these are approximate measurements.

Hope this helps.
 
I have a M plow bracket with the lift link for sale for $125 plus shipping. I can't imagine trying to fabricate one with out having one on hand to copy. A MT bracket is different from a M ,so don't get one by mistake. If interested contact me by email or call 573 535 8952. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:32 03/02/15) Rudy; a fellow on this board goes by jdadict is in Ontario....may have what you need.

If jdadict is Dean, then I have already sent him an email. Awaiting his response, so I'll have to wait to see what he comes up with.
 
Thanks for the compliment.

Providing a parts diagram really helps me understand how the tractor is put together.

Providing photos really helps me illustrate and describe the parts.

Also helps me remember what to do when working on our own tractors.

Got the impression that he really wants to fabricate his own.

Just figured the measurements might come in handy.
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:50 03/02/15) You're welcome.

As a favor, you might post a photo of your finished project.


When I get done the project, will post. Right now I gotta wait around for the snow to melt, and the frost to come out. Has been another cold winter up in the north. Still have the snow blower on for a while yet. Garden plowing is likely a few months away, and I still gotta pick up my plow from the grandparent's barn.
 
I never took the time to measure out, and keep record of, the spacing for my MT plow bracket. I always just set it to try and keep the control bar hanger "straight". I think its needless to say but I have printed out this thred and stuck it in my binder with plow information. I am interested to see if it is the same on an MT and am guessing it won't be far off. As many have said, THANK YOU JAMES!
 
Well, bad news. I found a plow bracket on evilBay for a semi-reasonable price. After $80 shipping, and a horrible exchange rate, it's in my hands. Not much paint left on it, but it's not all wore out. Figured, for the price I got it for, I couldn't build one counting materials and my time. A quick check with James' measurements, and this looks like the right one. Will be pick up my plow next week, and see how it goes.

Just one more question, what are the three holes on the lower part for?
 
My Mt manual show this part that goes in the holes. Looks like an eye bolt to me. My plow manual doesn't so it and it doesn't talk about it. May be it is used to keep the plow beam straight?
mike
a188532.jpg
 
I took the M and M2 plow out to the place we want our garden today. I made the linkage that goes from the lift arm to the depth control myself. Performance was mediocre. Not the worst plow job I've seen, at least it was straight. After reviewing some pictures and footage that wifey took, I have figured that the back of the plow isn't going in deep enough. This is controlled by the depth control. Now, I was smart and built my link rod with a turnbuckle in the middle, adjustable from about 15" center to center, to about 30". Now, I know I'd never need that long, but this was the only turnbuckle available to me at the time that would do the job. So, I think I need to lengthen that rod a bit to get me the right depth for the rear of the plow. So, my question is this, how do you guys keep the wheel in the air when driving around? I assume that lengthening the rod will move the wheel down when everything is lifted up. The wheel rides maybe 2-3 inches off the ground right now. I don't feel like tearing up my lawn moving it around. Any ideas?
 

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