3020 gas to diesel

mobob

Member
My 1970 3020 gasser is in need of in frame,i was wondering if or what diesel motor would be a direct fit? I am satisfied linkages ect would be needed also, but what diesel motor is needed, or if one can be found?
Thanks
Bob
 
Also the 3010 Industrial, 500 & 500 a, b, c, series Ind. tractors, anything 69' newer would be closest to correct block match for 70 3020.. Little hard to find , 270D but there are still a few out there.. Other alterative is find a # T25115' flywheel housing adapter, & put a Dubuque - Mannheim, Germany, [or what ever other foreign makes engines now] 239ci. 276ci. etc. 4 cyl. in it.. But IMHO. you'd be given up the better torque & longer lasting dependability of the Waterloo built engine...
 
I'm sorry to tell you, but the T25115 housing will not work, it will not mate to the Waterloo tractor bell housing.
R51794 From a 4030 will adapt a 300 series engine to a 400 series bolt pattern. You would also need the front pump support.

I'm not sure what you'd have to do for a flywheel, I'm going to cross that bridge soon. I have a 3020 gas with an extra hole in the block and a 239T that needs a home.
 
Well, its looking like an inframe is in the future. Was hoping I might get lucky and pull a combine motor.
 
I wonder if any of these kits are still around?
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If any one wants to see a tractor with one of the 6.8L kits in 6 cylinder tractor there is a 4000 with a 6.8L in it on tractor house. It's in Wisconsin. It is pretty easy to see the left hand injection pump and lines.
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:42 02/26/15) My 1970 3020 gasser is in need of in frame,i was wondering if or what diesel motor would be a direct fit? I am satisfied linkages ect would be needed also, but what diesel motor is needed, or if one can be found?
Thanks
Bob

What is he doing with a 3020 that will ever make the diesel conversion pay? It's likely an odd jobs putting around tractor used less than 200hrs a year.
Rebuild the gasser, install pertronix ignition, make sure the mechanical advance works. Rebuild a Zenith carb and keep the idle and main a wee bit on the lean side. Install a 195F stat. Use non resitor Autolite plugs.
 
Pretty close to correct buickanddeere, a few more hours but not much. Carb has been done, Pertronix installed 4 years ago, use champion plug though, may have to change. The old girl has a small knock, I think wrist pin , who knows for sure. Local JD dealership rough guess 35 hours for an in frame (sounds excessive to me)so long story short i am guessing 7000.00 for parts and labor. I love the tractor but not sure that much. Friend had same dealership install 4020 gas to diesel 2500.00 not counting the diesel motor (Combine motor) he bought himself for 1800.00 I believe. thus the price difference is the reason for me asking. Years ago I would attempt an inframe myself but that's been 35 years ago,
Thanks guys for the input
Till spring
Bob
 
(quoted from post at 15:17:28 02/27/15) Pretty close to correct buickanddeere, a few more hours but not much. Carb has been done, Pertronix installed 4 years ago, use champion plug though, may have to change. The old girl has a small knock, I think wrist pin , who knows for sure. Local JD dealership rough guess 35 hours for an in frame (sounds excessive to me)so long story short i am guessing 7000.00 for parts and labor. I love the tractor but not sure that much. Friend had same dealership install 4020 gas to diesel 2500.00 not counting the diesel motor (Combine motor) he bought himself for 1800.00 I believe. thus the price difference is the reason for me asking. Years ago I would attempt an inframe myself but that's been 35 years ago,
Thanks guys for the input
Till spring
Bob

The four cylinder Waterloo is somewhat of an orphan. Finding a decent running diesel will cost. $7000 sounds like a lot but if everything is brought back to new specs and that includes labour.
Just out of curiosity. I wonder what the difference is between repairing the 3020 and trading the 3020 to purchase a 5075E ?
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:57
Just out of curiosity. I wonder what the difference is between repairing the 3020 and trading the 3020 to purchase a 5075E ?

From reading reviews(track record) of a 5075E I'd take my chances with an "orphan engine" 3020. At least the fuel tank on a 3020 won't melt very easy. buickanddeere when are you getting your 5075E?
 
I don't know about a 5075E. This old side console rig is pretty well the brides tractor that she WILL use and my go to more than I think. Look's like the old girl is going to get an inframe. Everything else is sound, so gonna bite the bullet and give her some new innards !!

Thanks men
Bob
 
Where did you ever find this info txJim? When were these kits offered? I wonder what the price was on them? a 270 ci engine would definitely be a little more power, especially if a turboed version.
 
It was a Deere repower kit , offered though, manf. Superior Diesel, Rhinelander Wis. I've know guess as to price , but I'm sure the price would sound dirt cheap compared to todays prices.. There's a posting about it from 2yr. ago; YT search , '3010 repower'.. Credit to Cliff Nelson & cooney minnie .....
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:54 02/27/15)
(quoted from post at 14:45:57
Just out of curiosity. I wonder what the difference is between repairing the 3020 and trading the 3020 to purchase a 5075E ?

From reading reviews(track record) of a 5075E I'd take my chances with an "orphan engine" 3020. At least the fuel tank on a 3020 won't melt very easy. buickanddeere when are you getting your 5075E?

Mrs B&D wants a new deck on the North side of the house and around the pool this year. The LX188 lawn tractor is high hours and may need replacing. Plus I plan on moose hunting this year . That pretty much eliminates a new 4x4 loader backhoe tractor.
 
Something else to remember: Many woman hate the smell of diesel. If you already own a tractor the Mrs. is willing to run and likes it they way it is then I would not change it. You are simply risking more for what little you might gain.

FWIW: My wife hates diesel's. Refuses to run em or complains mightily when there is no choice. Put her on any of my antiquated gasser fleet and nary a peep or complaint and they are dinosaurs (Farmall h, Farmall m, Deere model A, etc). Matter of fact she just bought herself a Ford 850 gasser. She would think she had died and gone to heaven if I put her on a Deere 3010 or Deere 3020 gasser LOL
 
Very true rankrank1 !!!!!! Ha Ha. I got her dad's 530 wide front end gasser that I am probably going to part with this year, she will run it some, but hates trying to back it up , lol. Better stop trying to out smart myself, fix her 3020 and keep the girl happy and working
 
I am assuming that 530 you speak of is a JD 530 and not a Case 530 due to the hard backing up comment?

Backing a 2 cylinder hand clutcher does indeed suck. At least the later models have a slower reverse gear compared to the early models but reverse is still too fast even on the improved later models. Of course a worn sticky herky jerky hand clutch only further worsens the situation.

I do not let my wife do hardly any backing on my JD model A.

My 1950 A handles pretty good since it has add on power steering. That said, if the wife is gonna run it, I have to back the tension down some on the hand clutch so it releases real easy. My wife can not release the hand clutch if I set it to spec for heavy work. Learned that the hard way, when she had to throttle down and kill it cause she could not release the clutch after engaging it. Now I will not let her run it till I lessen up the clutch. Unfortuantely where I set the clutch for her the tractor clutch will slip under heavy work. So it is readjust again if I want to use the tractor for anything heavey. Not really a big deal though, just takes a few minutes.

Sure is a shame though that your wife does not like running her dad's 530 heirloom tractor. I bet that 530 is a joy to operate on some tasks otherwise.
 

A jumpy clutch is often due to excessive end play.
Not being able to disengage the clutch is because she is just pulling on it.
I have spent years trying to show my mother how to easily flick the tightest clutch engaged or disengaged. With a little momentum on the clutch handle with just the fingers and wrist.
 
My clutch is not jumpy, but I have operated a few tractors that did not belong to me that were terribly jumpy (no fun at all). Regardless, I do not like backing my tractor either and it works fine.

After you get your mother successfully trained, then tell me how you did it. Tried showing my wife the snap trick. She tried it once said it hurt her shoulder and wrist and mandated that she was never doing that again.

In fairness: it is fair easier for a man of heft to snap that clutch than it is for a small female with short arms to snap it.

So it is either back off the clutch tension and she will happily run the tractor or put her on something else. The tension backed off is fine for light work so that is what I do when I want to use that tractor along with the free help (free help in this case being help that I already have paid dearly for - so I might as well utilize it).
 

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