2010 Tractor Questions

I know 2010s are not real popular but my dad has his heart set on one to go with his 1010. Anyway looked at one tonight with him and the left brake was sticking. I'm not real familiar with Deere's. What might cause this?

Also, guy had the 3pt cable disconnected below the seat. Said it was getting really stiff so he just disconnected and manipulates the lever down there to raise and lower 3pt. Can the cables be freed up or replaced. Seller thought a new cable was $400 or so.

Thanks for any help!
 
I knew the new cables were high priced, but I didn't think that much. It's been years since I bought one. You can take it off and soak in oil, and free it up. It don't seem to last long though.
The brake are simple, just ramps and balls. Take it apart, check whats rusty or broken. The problem with that is, when you fix the sticking brake, you won't have any brakes at all. They had the poorest brakes of any John Deere.
 
The 1010 and 2010 where problem child's for JD/ both cost a lot to keep running and if you need parts you best have a lot of $$$$$$$$$$ or you had big paper weights
 
In reference to the sicking brakes I'l bet the balls(parts key 3) are dirty/rusty no wanting to roll to allow the disks to move back closer together or possibly weak springs(parts key 1).My dealer shows this price for cable.
AT13231 Push Pull Cable - CABLE ,PUSH PULL ADD 431.11 USD
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1010s and 2010s were nowhere near as "bad" as people claim here. Those tractor did have poor parts support - OEM or aftermarket as compared to other tractors. Some of the crawlers were excellent. Also, the 1010s and 2010s had many 'firsts" for Deere Co. and I suspect that's going to raise the value on them someday.

One of my complaints with 1010 and 2010 wheel tractors is they never had a good brake system. The brake design looks like it came from AUSCO.

Deere 1010 and 2010 series were the first full-size engines to have wet sleeves. first to have positive valve seals, first to use rotary-distributor injection pumps from Stanadyne, etc. Crawlers also had the first hydraulic-clutched power-shift transmissions using Twin-Disc parts.

Worst part of the 2010 wheel tractor is the hydraulic system, especially if it has that belly-mounted power steering pump.
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Thanks for the pics. Those brakes shouldn't be bard to work on if he gets it...my Farmalls use the exact same design disc brake.
 
The brakes were from Bendix I think, the 3300/4400 used the same set up, and not a good one,,and trying to make a 2010 sound good is like a loving Mother talking about her son in Prison...
 
Define "good?" For a tractor made in 1960, the 1010 was a better tractor then some others on the market at the time. If compared to other Deere tractors? Well yes, something like a 1020 is world's better.

We had plenty of customers with 1010s and 2010s that loved them. And some hated them. Same can be said with many model tractors.
 
That great philosopher, J.R. Hobbs, once said, "If you get a good one, you can't break it. If you get a bad one, you can't fix it".
 

A 1010 gasser can usually be tamed. Any 2010 and a diesel 1010 is only for the bold with deep pockets and much patience.
 
The diesels were fine if used right. Many if
not most were not. I had to fix or rebuild
many a 1010 or 2010 diesel back in the late 60s
on through the 80s when they were still "users"
and not collectors items.

#1 problem was getting people to learn how to
start them properly when cold. If the cold-
weather plunger-primer was used, along with
correct glow-plug heat - they started fine.
When someone dumped a bunch of ether into the
engine - they could self-destruct pretty fast.
The injection pumps were the first
"distributor" pumps Deere ever used and they
did not tolerate bad fuel like piston-pumps do.

Also there was a lot of confusion about correct
parts for the early diesels. Especially for the
correct injector nozzles. I knew of, and know
of, several well cared-for 1010 and 2010
diesels that held-up fine and are still going
today.
 
I had a 2010 d with the same problem with that cable I got it home and removed the cable froze solid,, went to deere and they wanted $465 for cable. I come home and put the cable in my parts washer and let it soak for two weeks took it out and put it the vice and slowly worked it untill i got it working I was lucky. You might try Good luck
 
If you can't get the cable freed up, there are aftermarket ones for about $80. At least they make them for 3020s--should be ok even if slightly longer.

I have a 2010 gas and have used it for several years for produce farming. It is handy. I did recently convert it to 12 V neg., alternator, and a pertronix unit, as well as rebuilding the engine. I had it bored out and put oversize pistons in the existing deck plate, and it worked fine.
 
I have free'ed up 4020/3020 cables like that too, once you get them to moving put them in the vice with one end up and let them drink a little oil down the housing as you pump the cable, bending and flexing them as the soak helps too..they will last a long time, the main reason they stick is from setting around and not being used.
 
I always read these 2010/1010 posts as I own a gas 1010W. I also grew up with a 2010 gas my dad bought new. The 2010 was "my" tractor and the G was my older brothers or so I thought. Thanks for posting, made a lot of memories in the sixties baling hay and straw all summer long.
 
I saw that as well. Will try to free up the old one first if dad buys it. Guy is asking $4000 with a 5' bush hog. Tractor ran great and seemed good with the exception of the brake sticking.
 
Oh they were the right size tractor for the little farm, a very handy size,, they just had some weird systems that were hard to keep going. I worked on a lot of them when I started working for the Dealer shop,back in the early 70's, I have dealt with all the bad of them..
 
Yes dad has a 1010 gas utility now. Great little tractor...never had any trouble with it. Currently his go to tractor for the haybine and baler. He has always wanted a 2010 and we were thinking havig a row crop with a few more gears would be nice for baling.
 
I have a parts 2010 row crop wide front 3pt pto power steering decent tires and most the tin is good. Fenders and what not. I only bought it for the motor so im keeping the diesel for my crawler but if it would help you out I would rather see it go to someone who could use the rest of the good parts. Anyway, my email is open if you end up needing it. I have a soft spot for the little buggers since most people dont like them haha
 
I know the 2010 gets a lot of bad press and I am not doubting any of it. But I know a local guy who bought an industrial gas 2010 with a loader/backhoe brand new back in the day. It was the first decent size tractor backhoe unit in the area. My neighbor owned a Ford 8N with an aftermarket hoe but it was one step above a shovel.

He did a lot of custom digging with it including work for our water district and us. He had to move to town and he auctioned off his holdings including the 2010 a few years ago. It had 8,000 hrs and it still ran like a sewing machine. Everything worked great and was still nice and tight. Didn't hurt he ran a small engine repair shop back in the day and had good mechanic skills to keep it going. But I wouldn't have been afraid of buying that 2010 despite what every one says. I guess my point is there are a few good 2010s.
 
Those disc brakes look like the same ones on my MH44, they work well, but I did have one stick on me last summer.
 
They were used on a lot of different tractors back then..I think they were made by Bendex..and yes thy were bad about locking up and what made them better on some tractors was the ratio to the transmision that the brake gear worked on.
 

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