Pics of Cab Tear-Down

Thought I would post up some pics I took of a 4840 cab I have been tearing down for my next project. Still need to pull the dash out to replace the seal. Not sure if these pics convey how much work this is, but it's a lot. The tear-down isn't so bad really, but putting it all back together is the hard part. Also, If anyone is in need of a pretty decent 40 series headliner, the one in this cab was relatively new.


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Oh MY.
All the Kings horses and all the Kings men could never put Humpty Dumpty back together again.
Good luck, lots of parts to this puzzle.
 
Still my favourite cab, but as you know, even with as much out of it as you have there are lots of tight places and its always dark
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:03 10/28/14) Still my favourite cab, but as you know, even with as much out of it as you have there are lots of tight places and its always dark

Yes and with as much gunk (dirt/grease/rust) in all those crevices, I would rather tear it down, paint it and put it all back together than the thought of using it with all that gunk.

I have also found that a lot of the 30 year old seam sealer that JD used is starting to break free. I've been scraping it out of all the joints but the scary thing is that most cabs in service will not get an overhaul like this. So many SG cabs will start to let water in, which leads to major rust probelms and you won't even know until it's too late.

You can't see it in the pics, but on the left fender of this cab, there is a huge rusted spot. I think because of the buildup behind the plate that is welded on the underside of the fender. Not sure why they were never sealed off. But you would never know it because the padding covered it up. So it's a good thing I didn't try to use this cab without re-doing it first.
 

It's always fun putting that glass back in the doors. I replaced the door on my 4030 and after several hours of got the top one in. After several hours more work I gave up on the bottom one and finally took it to a body shop. They used the old rope trick and got it in in about 5 minutes.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:59 10/28/14)
It's always fun putting that glass back in the doors. I replaced the door on my 4030 and after several hours of got the top one in. After several hours more work I gave up on the bottom one and finally took it to a body shop. They used the old rope trick and got it in in about 5 minutes.

Getting the glass back in is a pain. Tried the rope trick before but I guess I didn't do it right because it didn't work. I just use a short prybar and a rounded off straight screwdriver. Plust I keep a spray bottle of soapy water handy.
 
Nice! Please keep the pics coming on your progress. I'm a fan of 48's, family bought one new in '78 and still gets used. I put a new cab kit in it a few years ago but didn't go to the extreme you did! LOL
 
I also say keep the pics coming. Always nice to see what other guy's are working on and how they do things. You got me thinking about fixing up my 4030... John
 
Today was unusually warm for mid jaunary. So we pulled the cab off my new project tractor. Been removing bolts for the past few days lol. Was hoping we could leave the floor plate in the cab, but the window frame would not pass the brake pedals, typical. So we had pull the floor too. But we got it. Here's some pics.


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just sent you an email regarding that 4840's front axle. If it doesn't come through, please email me at rockyridge53813 at-gmail-dot-com. I'd also be interested in the K&N step/toolbox that was on your 4520 or 4620 (don't remember which) awhile back.
 
Looks like a nice straight ole 4620. You gonna put a sound guard on her too? Keep us posted on progress.

It was darn straight for the hours. Triple hydraulics and powershift. But yes, gonna drop in a 466 and add the sound-guard. I wantedto try a powershift this time so I shouldn't have too much trouble making the shifter work.
 
That cab is going to be as clean as the day it was new. I was looking at a 4430 and it needed a cab kit bad. It probably would of had to be tore down that far to get the manure smell out of it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:23 01/21/15) That cab is going to be as clean as the day it was new. I was looking at a 4430 and it needed a cab kit bad. It probably would of had to be tore down that far to get the manure smell out of it.

A piece of advice for anyone shopping for a soundguard cab for a project. There are a few places that you need to investigate for rust issues before pulling the trigger and overpaying for a cab. Lift up the floormat and look underneath. Also, peel up the padding next to the seat and on the fenders. Lastly, from the rear you can check the front wall and seat well. Those are notorious places for rust. Fixing rust can really eat up your budget--but you don't want igonore it if it can be fixed before it goes back on the tractor. Most guys probably want top dollar for their cabs, but they may or may not realize they are in as bad a shape as they are. So be sure to show them what you find. Also, tractors used around animals and manure, I would be very wary of because there's nothing that rots cabs faster.

This 4840 cab I am working on wouldn't be so bad, but there is a protective plate spot welded on the underside of the fenders. It's evident that years and years of moisture had set in between that plate and the underside of the fender--to the point where it ate through the left fender. You'd never know it until the padding was removed. Once I get everything painted, I am gonna take some seam sealer and seal up all the gaps around those plates to keep moisture out.
 
(quoted from post at 19:01:02 01/21/15) I will keep that in mind when I am 4430 shopping. Thanks for the advise.

Another thing that's bad about the 30 series sound-gards is that they used some sort of foam tape weatherstripping around the windows and doors and around the dash. The rubber style weatherstripping on the 40 series and newer cabs seems to last a lot longer. But by now the foam stuff is likely starting to rot and fall out. I replaced every single inch of mine, but it is not cheap and not easy to scrape off the old stuff.
 
When I get a 4430 I will probably replace every gasket and re seal the cab. I think I will also up date to the brown interior and a 40 series floor mat.
 
Got a shipment of goodies for the project in today. Been crappy and cold and cabin fever is setting in so I'm quite bored. Thought I'd post up some pics of what came today.



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Have you ever straightened a sightly bent sound gard cab? I'm looking at a 4430 that had a soft roll and landed on the side and it bent the right side.
 
(quoted from post at 19:59:35 02/11/15) Have you ever straightened a sightly bent sound gard cab? I'm looking at a 4430 that had a soft roll and landed on the side and it bent the right side.

My parts cab has the left side rolled, but no I never tried that but could see where they could be fixed. Just depends. Hows the fender and hows the black plastic/fiberglass on top of the cab (not the green part)? That piece is well over a thousand bux to replace if it gets broken. So I always scrutinize over those parts. The early fenders also have to be cut off to replace. Later in the 40 series they became bolt-on, which is much easier.
 
Well both the inner and outer roofs are broke and the fender is destroyed. What I'm not sure of is in the pictures it looks like the console is pushed toward the seat. So I am not sure if it is fixableor not.
 
(quoted from post at 03:56:01 02/12/15) Well both the inner and outer roofs are broke and the fender is destroyed. What I'm not sure of is in the pictures it looks like the console is pushed toward the seat. So I am not sure if it is fixableor not.

Sounds like a lot of work and $$. May not be worth it as there are a lot of 4430s out there.
 
A bit of an update. The rear housings are now changed. Working on the front end a bit before we try to fit the cab. So before I immobilize the tractor by pulling the dash tower off, I thought I would get the new front end on and see what kind of stance it has. The plan is to get rid of the 18.4-38" rears and install a set of 18.4-42s soon. Still need to yank the motor out of the 4840 and get it installed. Plenty to do on this one as I am getting ready to paint my 4000. I know it doesn't look like much now but stay with me.

Here's a few pics so far.



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Removed the front axle. I will keep this one fully intact so I can switch back if needed. It needs the cylinders rebuilt anyways and wouldn't hurt to have new hoses too. This is much easier to do with it out from under the tractor.





Below is something I acquired awhile back that didn't get used on the 6030 project. I felt it would be a much better fit for this tractor so we are giving it a go. I realize PFD has it's shortcomings, but the coolness factor goes way up when you see one. I started with a combine axle and not a tractor axle. As a result, the tires that came with this axle are much larger. 16.9-26 are a good 4-5" taller than the 14.9-26 found on the tractors. What's neat is the center cast section of the combine rear end is identical to the 4620 2wd axle. So the whole thing will pin to the tractor.

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Only thing though, you will notice that being a combine axle, the axle tubes are really long and the adjusting holes are at the far end instead of closer to to drives. So I took them to a machine shop for some customization.

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My welder guy made a jig to hold the final drives so he could remove the knee section from the drives. He also made a jig on his table to keep everything in position so nothing moved during the 'operation'. What we did was cut the tube away from the channel and turn it end for end and weld it back to the channel. This put the adjusting holes nearest to the drives instead of far away. The excess tubing at the far end was then trimmed. As a bonus, I had him camber in the channels 2 degrees before he welded them back solid. I have seen a few of the PFD axels sag and let the wheels tilt outward at the bottom. So I thought doing this would help prevent that.

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Once they were welded solid and boxed back in with new metal, you would not tell them apart from factory.

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Now for some new shoes. These are the old tires that came with the combine axle I bought and boy does this make it sit up. Once I get the 42s on, I think it will be perfectly level. Anxious to see that.



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A couple more. Couldn't wait to drive it around lol. Such a blast.


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I was worried the wheels might hit the frame when fulled turned, but they don't. I wanted to keep them in tight instead of pushed way out. Thinking about making this a planter tractor.

One thing I noticed when I got this tractor is that someone added a hyd. fill neck at the rear, along with a dipstick retrofitted to the normal fill location. I somehow lucked out because once I add the cab, this is gonna save me a lot of work. Still can't figure out how they managed it but it's nice because anytime you have to climb up the platform or in the cab with a bucket of hyd oil and pour it while holding the seat up, it is a major pain.



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Next is trying to figure out the plumbing. Any experts on that?
 

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