JD 3010 Hydraulic Pump Questions

Greetings,

Long time lurker and avid fan of this site. I just recently bought a JD 3010 1961 Diesel to help me run things around here on the small little ranch we have. For the first month after I got it, Ran Fine and lifted all the bales I have here (1100-1400lb Round Bales), and about a month ago, it stopped lifting them. I can Redline the Tractor and get them about a foot off the Ground but that's it now. With no load on the Loader it works just fine, Lift, Tilt, and grapple work great with no load on them. Fluid Level is fine and I replaced the Filter as well. Still won't lift them.

I'm planning on replacing the Hydraulic Pump on this tractor with a rebuilt one, and ran across a couple listings (around 850 each rebuilt, this is the one I am looking at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Pump-John-Deere-3010-3020-4000-4010-4020-4040-4050-4055-4230-4350-/121377846037?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 )
But I remember seeing something somewhere that they made two different pumps for these tractors, some with a relief valve or something like that (please excuse my ignorance), how does one tell without removing the old one first which pump the tractor has on it?? This Tractor Purr's like a kitten while Running but I really need the Hydraulics to work as I am a disabled vet and can't move these bales without it. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

DON'T EXCHANGE FRT HYD PUMP without performing proper diagnostics!!!!!! Many hyd pumps have been replaced to determine the pump wasn't the hyd problem.

I recommend cheeking/cleaning sump screen which access plug is located on LH side between hyd filter & rear axle housing. Next get a 5000# gauge and check stand-by pressure by plugging into scv which should be 2250 psi but but be set to 2350 psi. After performing these simple tasks report back.

DON'T EXCHANGE FRT HYD PUMP at this moment!!!!!!!!!!!
 
TX Jim is 100% correct on this. Even if you determine the pump is the problem why not have your pump rebuilt? Even a Deere dealer should be able to rebuild yours for less than $800.
 
Ditto what Tx. Jim said. I have had too many pumps brought to me because "the hydraulics are not working"and the pump was fine.
Do the other hydraulics such as the steering and 3 pt. hitch work? Does the loader stay up when the valve is in nuetral?
Check the pressure as Tx. Jim said and let us know, but for now leave the pump where it is.
 
Check the pressure first . If its low back off the pressure adjusting screw ,start the engine and them screw it back in for correct pressure of 2250-2350 . If it doesn't make any difference its probably the stroke control valve under the screw you adjusted pressure with . Replace the valve and seat as they come together .
 
Can someone suggest a good Hydraulic Test Gauge through a link that I can order Online. I'll check the Sump Screen sometime today, I am kinda limited as to what I can do right now as I just had a follow up Hernia Surgery wednesday. As for taking the pump in to have it rebuilt, Our JD dealer up here is slower than snot running down a frozen wall and just don't have time to wait on them "to get to it".

Loader stays put when I do have a load on it and can manage to get it lifted up a foot. Lift Cylinders check out ok, 3 points works fine, steering works fine.

Do they make a test gauge that just plugs right into the quick connect couplers or would I have to disconnect the hydraulic lines to get the gauge in there??
 
You can attach a male hyd coupler tip to this gauge by utilizing reducers so as to plug into breakaways to check pressure.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Gauges/Pressure-Vacuum-Gauges/?page_no=1&fq=
mvphoto14769.jpg
 
Would this be the correct adapter to get for the gauge?? Again please excuse my ignorance.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Quick-Couplers/Quick-Coupler-Pairs/1-4-QUICK-COUPLER-S10-2-9-1626.axd
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:00 01/09/15) Would this be the correct adapter to get for the gauge?? Again please excuse my ignorance.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Quick-Couplers/Quick-Coupler-Pairs/1-4-QUICK-COUPLER-S10-2-9-1626.axd

No that's not the correct hyd for OEM tractor rear breakaway coupler. This is the correct tip from TSC
mvphoto14780.jpg
 
thanks. I got the Screen Pulled out and it didn't look tooo bad. Got it cleaned off and drying right now, tractor plugged in so I can start it back up and check it out after doing this. testing the Hydraulics will have to wait till I can get the pressure gauge and all, The Fluid wasn't too bad that came out of there, a bit cloudy. I have to move a bale out of my 3 Heifer's today so we'll see how that goes.
 
A proper rebuild will easily cost $800 at a dealer depending on what is needed. I just priced parts from Deere for one I have apart that has more worn parts than normal. $1200 in parts alone. That one will get a reman from Hy Capacity. OP should be cautious buying off the internet from an unknown rebuilder. I have seen several pumps with low hour failure due to inferior parts from unknown origin. Either way, proper diagnosis of the problem is the way to start. 90% of the time it is not the pump.
 
Hi...

If the fluid was cloudy, and if I can infer
that you live in SD, and I'm guessing it's like
here in WI (@#$% cold!) that could be some or
all of your problem.

If the tractor is stored outside, it takes a
while in zero (or below) temps before the
hydraulics are going to function normally even
with new oil. Put in some stuff thats got
water in it (the cloudy) and that could be
your problem.

If you had a heated shop to put the tractor in
over night, it would be interesting to see if
your problem goes away!!!

Good luck!
 
This is so so so true. I was ready to exchange my pump as well, posted on here and all said not to. Put a seal kit in my had my pump flow and pressure tested at a local hyd shop and it tested fine. Turned out my problem was the priority valve. Steering and brakes worked fine but no 3pt or remote hyd.
 
Yes She's Parked outside and yes it does get cold out here but I always warm the tractor up for a good half hour before I even Move it.

I did the sump screen today and opted to pick up one of the smaller bales that I have (1100 lbs roughly) and i was able to get it up high enough to get it into the Bale feeder but that was it, had to rev it pretty high to get it up that high yet again.

again 3 Point and steering, brakes all work fine. I'm at a loss as I don't really know too much about these tractors.
 
I did not check your link to see where it was coming from. I do some business with ASAP and have been satisfied. It still depends on their source for pump parts. Of the pump failures I stated at least one was from a parts yard like ASAP. The downfall of the pump was poor quality parts. As stated by others though, If you diagnose the problem correctly you may not need a pump at all. Let us know what you find.
 

I ordered the Pressure Gauge and Connectors today, USPS Priority Mail so hopefully will have them in hand by Wednesday next week so I can check the pressure then. Until then I guess I am stumped.
 
I think you have a blown piston packing on one of
the loader lift cylinders. It's leaking by
internaly.
 
I was told that if the FEL stays where it's sat at when you release the control lever, there's nothing wrong with the cylinders. If it slowly sinks then there is something wrong with the cylinders. My FEL stays where it's put when I can manage to get it raised, there is no slow sinking.
 
That is true. When you are loading, and the
loader won't lift anymore, what happens to the
rest of your hyd. function? Do you lose steering
too, or brakes?
 

Everything works fine, except the loader. It won't lift a load. Works fine with no load on it. Get anything over 400 lbs of so on there and it won't lift without revving the hell out of hit and takes forever to lift it that way. Steering works fine, Brakes work fine, 3 Point works fine. It does Lift slightly better when the tractor is in Motion versus standing still though. Slightly better, not much.

I'll see what the pressure is as soon as that gauge gets here, nearest real town around here is 110 miles away and cheaper for me to order it online and have it shipped to me than to drive down for one little gauge unless I need to pick up other things.

I appreciate any ideas and help you guys are giving me on this. I don't know too much about how the hydrualic system on this thing works completely and I need this tractor to last me a few more years.
Trying to do this manure paycheck to paycheck sucks.
 
By reading your first post, I'm seeing you have a 3 function FEL. (boom, bucket, grapple)So you are using a 3 lever, 3 function valve? ; and looking at your pic, I'm seeing a hose returning oil to rockshaft return port, [near sump screen] ; That's telling me loader valve is plumbed in to hyd. system , & your not using rear remote to supply oil to loader valve, I think you need to look at loader valve ,for problems, Relief valve spring bad, CC plug [o-ring seal bad] seals in valve to boom lift leaking ; Try switching hoses , from lift boom to grapple valve ,etc. Maybe try lifting loader boom from rear tractor remote>>>>> /Send more pics, It will help us help you....
 
When you release the lever you are trapping the oil
in the cylinders so they stay put. When it quits
lifting feel the line lines to each cylinder while
holding the lever in the raise position, you may be
able to detect more flow in one side than the other.
The best way to check is to plug the lines to one
cylinder and let one side lift. Try it on each
cylinder.
 
Thanks, I will try some more of this tomorrow. And No, they are not hooked up to the Rear Hydraulics, those aren't hooked to anything right now.
 

I agree that long green line man has brought up a good point about FEL control.
Please explain how the FEL control valve is plumbed(hyd attached) to tractor?????
 
Remove male quick disconnect(outlined in blue) and install a male QD with just an open hose. Aim hose in hyd filler hole then crank engine with all three levers in neutral and no oil should come out open hose. If oil comes out open hose then remove plug(outlined in red) to determine if there's a relief valve under plug if so tighten relief valve completely. If oil still comes out open hose with all three levers in neutral then valve is an open center valve but needs to be closed center.
mvphoto14886.jpg
 
Doesn't the blocker plug in those valves have a couple o-rings on it? One might be blown.
 

I'll have to pick up another QD while I am in town on Wednesday to do this test, I don't have any extra's right now. Then I will let you know.
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:50 01/12/15) Doesn't the blocker plug in those valves have a couple o-rings on it? One might be blown.

I agree an o-ring could be blown on a closed center plug BUT from viewing SDHomesteader photo I'm not sure this valve is a closed center valve. The test of checking for oil flow from valve return port will help determine type of valve.
 

Ok, I got my Pressure Gauge today and hooked it up to the Line By the Break Pedal, got about 2400 PSI reading there. So I disconnected the hose (circled in Blue) and connected the gauge directly to the Valve Assembly, I got about 3000 PSI when I pulled the LIFT lever, and after I let the lever go, it maintained 1000 PSI on it. So I will assume the Pump is still good after those readings.
 
3000 psi is too high. Stand-by maximum shouldn't be over 2350 psi.

When FEL valve levers are in neutral you should have zero pressure on fitting circled in blue. It sounds as if pressure relief valve(if control valve has one) is leaking which isn't good on a closed center system as that will affect FEL power plus heat the hyd oil.
 

I had Zero PSI in Neutral, Until I pulled the lever, when I pulled the lever it gradually went up to 3000 PSI as the FEL raised. Once I released the lever, it maintained 1000 psi because there is no way to Lower the FEL while the Gauge is hooked up (the Gauge is hooked directly to the Valve Setup, not through a Tee, so the release/lowering lever has no where for the fluid to go) and I can't get the FEL lowered now because there is 1000 PSI holding the QD together's. If that makes any sense.
 

I did not intend for you to activate any FEL control valve levers with engine running while return line was disconnected and hyd gauge was attached in return line place. All I wanted you to do is check to be sure valve was acting correctly for a CC valve.
 

LOL, No big deal, I'll find a way to get it down and off LOL. I probably shouldn't have raised it all the way up but the gauge was fluctuating quite a bit. I'll look more into it tomorrow as I have to head out now to go to the doctor and get my drain removed from surgery last week. Ughhh
 
Ok, so this is where it stands now.

Got her fired up today, Unhooked all the QD's and Rehooked them up at the suggestion of the dealer. Got the pressure gauge off the valve assembly and everything hooked back up.

The Tilt is working fantastic, Nice, Fast and Tight per se. Same with the Grapple. However the lift, there is some improvement, I can lift about 3 feet off the ground, and then it starts Pulsing For lack of a better word. I did this with an 1100 lb bale on the FEL. Once I drop the bale, the Lift works just fine, No pulsing, and it goes up to fully extended, With a Bale, I can't get higher than 4 feet up off the ground. Which is fine for my bales, but not fine for my 1500lb Feed Bags that have to be picked up so that the bottom of the bag is about 6 feet off the ground to be able to drop them into the feeder.

Any other solutions or troubleshooting on this thing, it's going to drive me to drink. Damn thing worked great for the first two months I have had it, then this manure. UGHHHHHH
 

Can you plug gauge into rear remote? To accomplish this will require a male plug I posted a picture of earlier. Did you look for a relief valve on the FEL 3 spool valve? If engine is stopped with boom raised how long will boom remain in the air?
 

I tried Hooking it to the Rear Valves Yesterday but couldn't get the Male connection to go in far enough to release the coupler that holds the little steel balls in place, will try again today.

When the FEL is completely up, with the pressure gauge on it, it was reading 1000 PSI and held that 1000 PSI for the 2 Days I had the Boom all the way up, when I did fire the tractor up it was still fully extended and would not go up any further.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions everyone has offered on this, Please for once don't think I am grateful for this healp.
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:08 01/17/15)
I tried Hooking it to the Rear Valves Yesterday but couldn't get the Male connection to go in far enough to release the coupler that holds the little steel balls in place, will try again today.

I agree with long green line man about the style male coupler it takes to plug into rear of factory breakaways.
 

Well, I thought I had the Right tip, asked them for the JD Tip when I picked up the other ones and I didn't bother to check like a dumb#ss, You know, trusting them Parts Guys to know what they are doing, So now I have 2 sets of Pioneer Couplers. I go back down on Tuesday for another doc appt and will pick one of the JD Ends up then. Thank you again for the help.
 

Ok, so I finally got the Right tip to check the rear Hydraulics.

Here's a run down again.

Front Hydraulic Fitting by the Brake Pedals is reading 2300 PSI,
Hyrdaulic Fitting coming OFF the Lever's is reading 2300 PSI
Rear Hydraulics are reading 2275-2300 PSI,
The Loader Levers are a closed Center Set up as far as I can tell.

Those readings are after about 5 Minutes of warm up time included. I still can not get this loader to lift an 1100 Lb Bale more than 3-4 feet in the air. As I said before, first two months we had it, no problems, About 2 months ago this started happening. FEL, Lift, Tilt, Grapple all work fine with no Load on it, but put a load on it more than 500 lbs or so and it won't lift.

By the PSI readings I am getting I am assuming the Pump is fine up front of the engine under the Fuel tank and radiator. What else could be wrong??? Should I just start replacing the smaller parts one at a time and hit and miss.
 
If you have 2, 4 or 5 ft. hoses plumb oil lines from lift cyl's . on valve to JD tips & install in rear remote on tractor, try lift.. this will tell if lift cyl's. are leaking past piston in cyl. If loader lifting OK ; look to relief spring in loader valve , or seals, O-rings in spool on loader lift valve... or CC plug if valve has one...
 
Stand-by pressures you got when checking a good. I would simply remove the 2 hoses on the end of lift cylinders that aren't intended to have pressure when raising boom normally which is the butt end.. If when raising oil comes out of cylinder port then lift cylinder needs rebuilding as packing isby-passing.

According to your report on the test I asked you to perform earlier operating engine with FEL valve return hose disconnected and no oil came out of hose the FEL valve including relief valve if there's is one should be FINE
 


Thanks again, I will get those things tested out this week in between helping another guy run his chores this week while his Farm hand is on Vacation.

I wouldn't think the Cylinders would be the problem as once the "Load" is Raised, it stays put, the loader doesn't slowly fall or anything. It stays right where I put the loader (even 3 days later).
 

I just thought of another easier test if hoses have swivels. Raise loader a few ft off the ground,stop engine then CAREFULLY loosen both hoses on the opposite end of lift cylinders from lift pressure. If cyl packing is leaking loader boom will immediately start to lower
 

Ok, I finally got some time here at my place to get some work done. Went out and raised the FEL about 4 Feet off the Ground, and shut the Tractor off. I disconnected what I think is the non lift pressure side of the Cylinders, on both sides. Correct me if I am wrong on this but My Lift Cylinders have a Metal Tube that Runs the whole length of the Cylinder and both hoses connect on the same side, I disconnected the Hose that Attaches to the point at the Top (furthest from the seat) of the Cylinders. Fluid Came out and it started to Lower. I tightened them back up and it stopped. I also did this to the bottom hoses as well and fluid came out them as well. Just to make sure I did a disconnect on the non lift pressure side. This is a Model 80 EZ on Loader according to the paperwork from the dealer when we bought it. Cylinders are around 4 feet in length. So does this sound as if My Lift Cylinders are Bad. Wouldn't any Lift Cylinder lower if the hoses are disconnected from it??? This Test, no offense, makes no sense to me. If the hoses are disconnected, and it's got fluid on both sides of the plunger inside, wouldn't it lower anyway, bad cylinder or not??
 
(quoted from post at 15:32:53 02/05/15)
So does this sound as if My Lift Cylinders are Bad. Wouldn't any Lift Cylinder lower if the hoses are disconnected from it??? This Test, no offense, makes no sense to me. If the hoses are disconnected, and it's got fluid on both sides of the plunger inside, wouldn't it lower anyway, bad cylinder or not??

I did not ask you to disconnect hoses on the bottom end of cylinders as I knew oil would come out as that's what holds the boom up. However fluid coming out of cylinder hose furthest from tractor seat AND BOOM LOWERING indicates cylinders piston packing failure requiring replacement of packings for correct operation.
 
SDHomesteader: When you loosened Oil line to top [non pressure] side of cyl."s , It is normal for some oil to come out , but loader should not have come down.. Loader coming down tells me oil is getting past piston in cyl., on one or both sides of cyl. lift pistons .. Another test [to confirm that valve is OK] is to attach oil lines from outlet on back of tractor, to oil lines from lift cyl."s on valve, & try to lift a bale...
 

I don't have any Hoses on the bottom of the Cylinders to disconnect. It's a Welded on Tube that goes to the Front (top) of the Cylinder).

Here is a drawing of how my cylinders are set up as my camera is dead right now and can't find the charger for it.

Ok, Excuse my Ignorance Please. If the Cylinder is completely Good, WHAT is keeping the fluid in the cylinders if the lines are disconnected, they way I understand how these cylinders work is that there is a piston in there, that has fluid on both sides of it, the fluid is changed from one side (up or down) by the Valve on the fender, If you disconnect those lines, what is in there that keeps that fluid from just flowing out (from either side of the piston) of the hole where the hose connects?????
 

I'll have to get another JD Coupler for that Test as I only bought one for the pressure gauge to hook to.



If EITHER line on my Hydraulic cylinders are disconnected in pairs (bottom from the steel line on both, or top on both) the Loader Drops. I did Both Ends of the cylinders because I was not sure which one was the pressure line or not is all.
 

The hose that attaches to tube on cyl is the pressure line when boom is raised, the frt end port of cyl is the return port which when oil comes out of this port when boom is raised indicates blown cyl packings
 

Ok, So I am assuming to fix this I would need a Rebuild Kit for the two Cylinders, or replace the two cylinders.

I put a call into the JD dealer that I got this thing from about rebuild kits for the Model 80 EZ on Loader. Not sure what they will cost, Does anyone have any other sources for rebuild kits for the cylinders, I tried doing a search online through Google and only thing they really come up with is EZ On Trailers, which does no good to me.

Thanks again for all the help.
 

I wasn't implying BOTH lift cylinders need repacking as one faulty cylinder packing could cause your lifting problem. To isolate if one or both cylinders are at fault one needs to perform more diagnostics by blocking off alternate cylinders. I would suggest to take faulty cylinder or cylinders to a hyd repair shop.
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:19 02/06/15)
I wasn't implying BOTH lift cylinders need repacking as one faulty cylinder packing could cause your lifting problem. To isolate if one or both cylinders are at fault one needs to perform more diagnostics by blocking off alternate cylinders. I would suggest to take faulty cylinder or cylinders to a hyd repair shop.

Well, if I am gonna Rebuild one, I might as rebuild the other one right LOL. Was on the phone for about 30 minutes today with my JD Dealer and we think we found some rebuild kits for them and got them ordered. Will let ya know if this fixes the issue which I am sure it will since about everything else checks out. 30 bucks for each rebuild kit isn't soo bad. So I'll start with that I think.
 

Well, I finally got the cylinders off and torn apart, and after almost 2 weeks of searching, No Rebuild kits for these cylinders to be found no where, not even from Ezee-on. I got two new Lift Cylinders ordered today from International Hydraulics. Only difference is the new cylinders will have a 2.5 inch bore where the old cylinders are 2 inch bore. 625.00 for two cylinders and UPS Ground Shipping. A lot cheaper than what Ezee On wanted for Upgraded cylinders for that particular Loader (800.00 each from them). Keeping fingers crossed that this fixes the problem.
 

Got the New Cylinders on Monday, had to grind down some of the mounting Brackets on them because they were about 1/4 inch too wide even though the specs said they would fit. Had to get two new longer hoses (replaced all 4 though), got them installed, warmed up and BINGO, she lifted both size bales we have out here, 1100 and 1400 lb bales. YAYYYYYYYYYYYYY Thanks for the input and help and putting up with me.

I'll definitely have some more questions for ya this spring.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top