Daughters 300 industrial

My daughter is getting started out on her own and needed a tractor to feed a few small round bales of hay.She and her husband work hard and have just bought a house and a few acres so I decided to buy them a loader tractor to help them out. She learned to drive on my 1520 so I wanted to get something similar. I was able to get a 300 industrial gas with a loader. I had to do a little to it to get it in good shape.I could never get the original carb to suit me so on the advice of a long time Deere shop foreman I bought a zenith for it.[On the Y.T.site] It starts and runs great now but I can tell a marked difference in starting and running if the clutch is pushed in. It is a shuttle shift so I assume there would be a little more hyd load on it. Is this normal or is there a problem I should address? She lives 200 miles away so I would like to work out as many bugs as possible before taking it to her. Thanks for any help Lee
 

Does shuttle operate correctly? Closed center hyd pump can because of internal leaks put an extra load on starters during the engine starting process. I would advise to install a hyd pump destroking screw(parts key 6) AR33249 subs to the following list of parts for a hyd pump with no serial number. Hyp pump "with a SN" utilizes a different DS screw.

A4365R O-Ring - PACKING "O" RING View/Update 0.96 USD
R26448 O-Ring - O-RING, O-RING View/Update 1.54 USD
R27171 Screw - SCREW View/Update 7.89 USD
R27475 Fitting - BUSHING,ADJUSTING SCREW View/Update 5.53 USD
34H254 Spring Pin - PIN, SPRING View/Update 0.33 USD
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Have u checked the oil in it I got one one time that had gear oil in it it was really hard to start without putting clutch in
 
The shuttle operates correctly,or at least as good as my bil's new deere tractor. I have changed the hyd fluid and am thinking of changing it again because it still has a little tinge of yellow. It does seem to take a second to start moving when you let out the clutch but the clutch isnt slipping because I pulled a big load of hickory firewood up a pretty steep hill with it saturday. How does the destroking valve work?
 
I have no idea why a Deere shop-foreman would tell you to swap the carb. Those 135 gas engines work fine with the Marvel carbs. I've got a 300 gasser I bought 15 years ago at auction and it runs perfect. Just had to tweak the electric solenoid on the carb a bit. Note I was also a "shop foreman" at a Deere dealership so we don't all agree on things.

My 300 always had hot starting/cranking issues until I put in a manual pump destroker for $15.

You MUST figure out what hydraulic pump your 300 has. It can have the tiny German pumps - .69 cubic inches or 1.4 cubic inches - or the USA built pump that is 2.4 cubic inches. You must get the destroker that matches the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:57 12/17/14) How does the destroking valve work?

Before attempting to crank engine turn DS screw down about 3 or 4 turns then crank engine and turn screw back out. Turning screw down stops hyd pump from pumping hyd oil therefore reducing load on starter.
 
Thank you guys so much for your help. How is the best way to determine which pump I have and what do I do to install the valve?
 
In cold weather it helps most any thing with a standard transmission to start it with the clutch down,,dis-engaging the drive line is just less things the starter needs to spin, especially in cold weather,,and even more so in "very" cold weather....
 
As Tim and others have stated, having the clutch down is always a good idea when starting in cold temps. Over the years, we had 4 of those (300 and 400 series) and having the clutch disengaged always made a big difference... Seemed to be a significant load drag from the trans. Or maybe not quite enough starter for the load.

Ours, however, were all diesels. In regards to the slight delay in the clutch, one of ours had that, too. It never seemed to slip, but sometimes would hesitate a little.

Last, as far as the oil is concerned, if it is not "clean" looking, you may need to change it again. With the loader on there, you are never completely draining the system, as there is always a fair amount left in the cylinders. It is worse if you have a backhoe.

You probably already know this, but make sure the rubber boots around the shift levers are in good shape. THey can provide an easy route for rain water to get in if they get cracked.

Good luck.
 

I'll add to what C M stated to also be sure hyd filler cap breather isn't plugged keeping condensation from leaving when hyd oil gets to operating temp.
 
Night and day difference between the little German pumps and the big USA pump. Photo closest to the top that Texas Jim posted is the German pump. Regardless if a .69 cubic inch or 1.4 cubic inch - the German pumps look the same. One has four cylinders with blank spots between them. The 1.4 has eight cylinders.
Besides looking completely different, the German pumps have smooth-round input shafts with a key. USA pump has a splined shaft.

All is takes to install the shut-off is to unscrew a hex-head plug and replace with the destroker. It's basically just a hex-head cap with a screw and T-handle.

I don't know why pushing in the clutch pedal makes such a difference but that depends on options the tractor has. Some (with live PTO) have a two-stage dry engine clutch, or a non-live PTO with a single dry engine clutch. Others have a hydraulic hi-low wet-clutch pack before the gear-trans. If you hold the clutch pedal down long enough on some models - the front hydraulic pump starves for oil (I think).
Been a long time and I cannot remember how all the Deere tractors work. On, pushing in the clutch stops the transmission pump from working.
 
Also in addition CLEAN THE SUMP SCREEN many overlook this. It sits crossways in the bottom of the tranny and you get to it by removing a large plug on the side of the tranny case.
 
Once again thanks so much! Tx Jim I think it looks similar to the one you pictured. It looks a lot like the one in my 1520. One of the first things I did along with a new starter and carb was to replace the shifter boots. I did not realise it had a sump screen. I have cleaned them on both my 3020s but didnt think to look on this tractor. I will try to post a picture tonight if I can remember how.
 
Trans sump screen is parts key 30 accessible on RH side of trans case. If you decide to install a DS screw the part numbers listed are for pump in previous photo.
R30903 O-Ring - PACKING,O RING View/Update 1.00 USD
R38052 Screw - SCREW View/Update 28.02 USD
R38053 Drain Plug - BUSHING,ADJUSTING SCREW View/Update 6.01 USD
34H254 Spring Pin - PIN, SPRING .33 USD View/Update
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No. 2510 had the 2.4 USA pump with only four
cylinders bored instead of eight. That make it a
big pump physically but only with 1.2 cubic inch
displacement per rev.
 

I'll check tonight but iirc the only four piston pump was the weenie 1000 series with four Pistons and 0.7cu" . 1.4cu" if bored for eight Pistons. The pump upgrade in the parts book goes right up to the 2000 series pump.
 

b&d
Compare the difference in this and the previous photo of a 4 piston pump.

I like to be there when you asked a JD parts person to sell you some parts for a 1000 or 2000 series hyd pump because unless you furnished more adequate information you'd walk away "empty handed" IE no parts.
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(quoted from post at 12:12:35 12/18/14)
b&d
Compare the difference in this and the previous photo of a 4 piston pump.

I like to be there when you asked a JD parts person to sell you some parts for a 1000 or 2000 series hyd pump because unless you furnished more adequate information you'd walk away "empty handed" IE no parts.
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I would assume then jim that you have never read the JD service manual for the closed center pumps?
 

b&d
Assume what you think you must assume. I'll bet by my being a former JD dealer service manager I've read/studied more JD tech manuals than a nuclear plant employee such as yourself.

Now as I previously stated waltz up to your favorite JD dealer parts person and tell them you need a seal kit for a 1000 or 2000 series hyd pump and I'll bet without any more information from you you'll walk out empty handed. I'll be waiting for YOU to confirm which JD parts catalog refers to the hyd pump as a 1000 or 2000 series. :wink:
 
I don't need to check anything. I changed out
many a four-bore pump on a 2510 over to an 8
bore. 2.4 USA pump is a direct, bolt-in swap.
Nothing in commmon with the little German four-
bore pump. German pump has a smooth round
driveshaft with a keyway. USA pump - four-bore
or eight-bore has a splined driveshaft. Night
and day difference between the tow.

I've swapped out four-bore pumps on many 1020s
and 2510s. Like I said, I don't need to check
anything to verify. Very different.
 
When you say shuttle works right...the top 2 to 3 inches of clutch is to stop shuttle...you push all way down to change gears or put pto in gear...
 
I can't speak for Jim - but I know that Deere
dealers were not required to have those generic
"Fundamentals of Service" manuals if that is
what you are referring to. We WERE required to
have the tech manuals for what we sold. We
were also required to attend Deere tech school,
every winter, in Syracuse, NY. I went to many
Deere hydraulics tech classes and never heard
the terms you are using. I don't doubt they
exist somewhere in some esoteric division of
Deere Co. 1010 series of tractors was
technically called the "1000 Series" but how
often do you hear that? 2010 was the "2000
Series."

The Deere specific-to-machine tech manuals give
all the detailed hydraulic pump repair info and
test specs. The only part of a tractor we
ever had to buy separate manuals for was for
diesel injection pumps - like the SM2045. I
assume that was needed since Deere did not
design or build those injection pumps.
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(quoted from post at 09:15:48 12/19/14) I can't speak for Jim - but I know that Deere
dealers were not required to have those generic
"Fundamentals of Service" manuals if that is
what you are referring to. We WERE required to
have the tech manuals for what we sold. ]

What you stated was the same for the dealer I worked for. I don't remember ever seeing the pumps classified as 1000 or 2000 series until b&d brought it up. I still contend that if one walked up to a JD parts counter and asked for any parts for a 1000 or 2000 series hyd pump one would walk away empty handed.
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:34 12/19/14)
(quoted from post at 09:15:48 12/19/14) I can't speak for Jim - but I know that Deere
dealers were not required to have those generic
"Fundamentals of Service" manuals if that is
what you are referring to. We WERE required to
have the tech manuals for what we sold. ]

What you stated was the same for the dealer I worked for. I don't remember ever seeing the pumps classified as 1000 or 2000 series until b&d brought it up. I still contend that if one walked up to a JD parts counter and asked for any parts for a 1000 or 2000 series hyd pump one would walk away empty handed.

I have been trying to post the 1000,2000, 3000 pages pages etc but can not make it work.
 
jde

I have been trying to post that 1000,2000 and 3000 etc series pump info with zero success. Unless I scan each page and link to photo bucket.
The 300 industrial tractor could be equipped with any of four pumps.
The only four piston pump was in the 1000 series . There was no four piston 2000 series pump.
I have gone to "Option", browsed, clicked on to highlight,had the file title appear on the yt page beside the Browse button and Begin Uploads appear. That is as far as it goes.
 

b&d
I agree that the JD hyd pumps were classified as 1000,2000 & 3000,etc BUT WHAT IS YOUR POINT? You and maybe one other homosapien will use that terminology. As I previosly stated I'll bet you can't get parts at a JD parts counter asking for parts for a 1000 series JD hyd pump.
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(quoted from post at 13:44:05 12/20/14)
b&d
I agree that the JD hyd pumps were classified as 1000,2000 & 3000,etc BUT WHAT IS YOUR POINT? You and maybe one other homosapien will use that terminology. As I previously stated I'll bet you can't get parts at a JD parts counter asking for parts for a 1000 series JD hyd pump.
mvphoto14172.jpg

I did not think it was an issue, just the way that Deere identified her pumps. Then more than one person declared there are no such pumps.
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:21 12/20/14)

I did not think it was an issue, just the way that Deere identified her pumps. Then more than one person declared there are no such pumps.

OK you found JD pumps identified as 1000,2000,3000,etc BUT JD parts people & JD technicians don't have a clue what this identification means SO WHAT GOOD DOES IT DO??? Nothing but give you a warm,fuzzy feeling I guess. :wink:
 

If one finds the pumps listed as 1000,2000 and 3000 series in the service manual. It should not be a surprise that the pumps are called 1000,2000 and 3000 pumps?
Then again Deere called the V4 starting system on the two cylinder diesels "Starting Engines" . They are called everything but. Pup start in the north and pony engine start in the south.
 
(quoted from post at 15:37:57 12/20/14)
If one finds the pumps listed as 1000,2000 and 3000 series in the service manual. It should not be a surprise that the pumps are called 1000,2000 and 3000 pumps?.

I'll challenge you to show where the JD hyd pumps in question are referred to 1000,2000 or 3000 series pumps in any JD parts catalogs. :wink:

BTW do you think your wife will ever allow you to purchase a new JD MFWD,cab tractor???
 

Send me your email address and I'll send the pdf.
I won't get permission until the house is fixed up to her standards and after she has some more vacation trips. I have to do what I am told.
 

Sorry but I don't need the pdf as I only own the one JD tractor with a closed center pump. My email is always open on Modern view but I can't determine how to "keep" it open on Classic.
 

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