1943 B crankshaft B1847R

Wemedeeres · Dec 14, 2014

Well I started in on the engine work portion of my restoration project this afternoon. When I went to remove the clutch driver I found that the previous owner must have had problems at some point in the past. It looks like the driver had come loose and wobbled on the shaft and buggered up the splines. To fix it, it looks like they slid thin brass shims in between the splines to take up the slack and tightened the he!! Out of it. I couldn't find my puller so tomorrow I'll get my father in laws so I can remove the belt pulley.

My big question is where do I go next?, leave it and hope the inside clutch facing lasts forever? Remove the crank and find someone to rebuil the splines? Get a different crank? If I do that do I need to get the connecting rods ground to mate with the new crank of get new rods as well?

My head is starting to hurt from all these questions swirling around in there for the past few hours so I think I'm gonna sleep on it and hopefully through the powers of this forum I'll get pointed in the right direction and will be able to keep a little bit of my sanity!

RandyB(MI) · Dec 14, 2014

Sounds like it was working just fine if you need a puller to get it off. Probably ran a long time like that and ain't like you are going to farm with it every day. I'd take it off and do all you need to do in there and duplicate what they did and use your restoration $$$$ for more serious issues you will probably find later on or on good paint. If a '43 "B" has to be "perfect" even if a flaw affects nothing then open your check book.

Gene Davis (Ga.) · Dec 14, 2014

Worked for Deere when I was younger. Neatest thing I saw for clutch driver shims were ones made from an old Prince Albert tobacco can. Still had the lettering on it and looked like they were hacked out with a hammer and cold chisel. They worked though.

Mike M · Dec 15, 2014

Well when I restored my 1945 it was based solely on the fact I had 1 good crankshaft to build it from. I had a lot of other parts for those years but crankshafts in those seem to be worn from previous owners not getting the nut tight enough. I think the castle nuts and cotter pins lead them to believe it did not need to be TIGHT.
You may be able to find a good one ? or there are places that can build it up and remachine it for you.

Wemedeeres · Dec 15, 2014

I'm at a little bit of a stand still, I spent all day outside at work in the cold and wind so I didn't feel like going to the shop and pulling the pulley off.

I guess my biggest concern is if I remove it and can't get it back on the way it was before I removed it I'll be looking for a different crank or have this one fixed. I could turn a blind eye to it so to say but if I ever need to replace the inside clutch disk I'll be back to removing it and with my luck end up tearing the tractor down after it's been painted.

Loosehandle · Dec 15, 2014

I wish I had a dollar for every one of those model b
Tractors I've seen with a loose driveing disc...

Wemedeeres · Dec 19, 2014

Well I pulled the driver off last night this is what I found, I'm guessing this is why it was parked, I can't see how you could get it to run true enough to not vibrate!

1943 B crankshaft B1847R

Wemedeeres

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RandyB(MI)

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Gene Davis (Ga.)

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Mike M

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Wemedeeres

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Loosehandle

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Wemedeeres

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