1966 4020 diesel stuck price

I have always wanted a 4020 and I found a project one that needs a motor. Not in terrible shape. Needs front tires and new rear side panels and the motor obviously. What's a fair offer? I know you don't like these questions but just a ballpark price and anything I should look for while looking it over? Thanks

Well, when it doesn't run, it's hard to tell condition of hydraulics, transmission, etc.... all of which can be expensive.

Keep that in mind. I don't think you can pay too little.

coonie is right, too many unknowns. That being said you'd have to buy it right in case it's beyond fixing so you can get out of it without loosing money, some salvage yards give good money for parts tractors, especially if the sheet metal is nice.
Years ago I took a chance on a 4020 that was stuck, $2500. Took her home and put a bar in the ring gear and it broke loose, gave it a yank and it fired right up. Mind you it was a ragged out 4020, but it drove and everything worked. Traded it for a 4430 pulling tractor project and the kid still uses it, he did overhaul it eventually.
Bought a running 4010 a few years ago that need some work on the top shaft in the trans, $2200.
And recently at an auction a burnt 4010 sold for around $2100, which I though was crazy.

Did an appraisal on 66 4020 with 158 loader tractor was original paint tires poor had good W.F motor was ran with low oil and broken.I figured the loader at $2K as it needed edge and cylinders leaked and tractor also at $2K and it sold to local farmer who was going to fix it himself.If they had left it at JD to fix it would have cost $10K and could not have got that much.So many variables.Salvage yards usually can pay $30+ per H.P.but known broken engine really hurts value

I think
I got like $ 2000 ??? out of a 4010 with a narrow frt. a few years back that was stuck. If you advertise one of those in that condition you will get a lot of calls.
If you are going to fix it up you can't get them too cheap like the others said. Too many unknowns and parts are VERY expensive.

Hi as others have said cheap as possible. It's totally unknown. Lots of those round here had corrosion on the liner sealing ring grooves in the blocks, look for rust marks/ water coming out the weep holes at the bottom of the block.
make sure none of the block or other castings are cracked to.have seen the odd one with cracked castings in sales.
Round here it's impossible to find a good block now, and may be the same in other areas. I have seen guys plug the weep holes on suspect motors before selling, or to get the last few years out of it as well.

if i was looking and it not running I'd start looking at the brake and clutch pedals, the ends of the gear shifter rods and linkage, for heavy wear. it will give you an idea if the clocks right, and what wear might be on everything else you can't see,or test.
Long and short, I had a customer called me about a 4010 he wanted to buy. He said nice tin, good tires and runs good higher hours, had the trans pump done, and a loader $6000. I said if it was that nice and right go get it.
well when I saw it I said you didn't get the nice one then, he said yeah thats it!. well the clock broke at 7500hrs. I figured from the wear on all the levers and selector arms, the pedals and hyd levers and every other thing it had 20.000 hard hours on. But tin and tires were real good. So be warned with it!. It Could get expensive real quick, or you could get real lucky. you won't know until you own it.
Regards Robert

1000

The tractors has value just in parts. You have not given us enough information to really tell you what it is worth. Wide front??? Diff lock??/ Dual remotes??? So you see it could be worth $2500 or $1000.

They are not as hot as they where just a year ago. I bought a running one that has dual remotes and diff lock for $5000 with fair tires, just a month ago.