1020 diesel spun a bearing

Hello, have a 1020 diesel that spun a rod bearing. Need some advice, help. Is there an online service manual for this? What is the easiest/best way to pull crank. How/easiest way to split tractor? Anything would be appreciated.

David

(quoted from post at 00:44:06 11/26/14) Hello, have a 1020 diesel that spun a rod bearing. Need some advice, help. Is there an online service manual for this? What is the easiest/best way to pull crank. How/easiest way to split tractor? Anything would be appreciated.

David

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How did that engine spin a rod bearing?
Parts book is free on the JD web site.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

Don't waste your time with an IT manual.
The nice folks at 1-800-522-7448 sell real JD operator and service manuals on CD and on hard copy.
What is the over all condition of the rest of the tractor? It maybe time to start weighing the cost of repairs and what the tractor is worth now and when repaired.

thanks for responding, tractor is in good shape, just use if for mowing around the farm, also thought about the price and cost, but it is hard to find good, low priced tractors for what it is going to cost to fix. I do not have it tore apart completely yet, just pan removed. Did not want to split it until sure how to get out crank, i know i need to split the back, but not sure on the front end, split it or can i just remove the radiator and get to the timing cover that way. Interesting question on the how did the engine spin a rod bearing (#3 piston) wish I new, any ideas, maybe dirty oil, things happen, ?? I have used jdpc many of times for parts/ part numbers, and to see how things were put together. Online parts books are a life saver. Thanks for your help.

David

Timing of crankshaft on those JD engines requires a timing tool which will be discussed in service manual. If I was the one to R&R crank I'd want the engine on an engine stand.

If you put your own marks on the gears BEFORE tearing it down then that special tool is not needed.
Those gears are HARD so I had to use a dremal with a grinding wheel.

David,
Yes, no question you have to split the tractor at the clutch housing. To get the crank out it requires a total tear down. Then you need to figure out if you can grind it or do you need a new crank. Good Luck!
John

I disagree with Buick-Deere about the IT
manuals. l love them. Brief, to the point, and
not filled with useless fluff. Sometimes they
have more hard info then the Deere manual for
certain things.

When I was a mechanic at a Deere dealership -
we had all the factory manuals and all the IT
manuals. The ITs were the ones that got used
the most. They were only $3-$5 each back then.
I have just about every one ever printed. The
factory manuals got used when things got real
complicated and more detailed info was needed.
Also note that often it takes more then one
factory manual to cover one Deere tractor. Lots
of "sub" manuals.

There is a complete Deere factory manual
floated around on-line, for free in PDF for a
Deere 300B diesel loader-backhoe. That has the
same engine as your 1020 . I can send you a
copy on a CD if you can't find it on-line.

There is a slight chance you don't have to pull
the engine or crank. All depends how bad that
bearing spun, why, and what it did to the
crank. If it spun due to a sleeve leaking and
coolant in the oil, and the engine seized at
cold start-up, it might have a chance. I've
cleaned up a few crank journals with emory
cloth and then installed a .002" undersize main
bearing. All depends if the actual steel of the
crank got messed up or it just has melted
bearing material stuck too it. Also depends if
the bearing OD mounting area is still good. If
you spun a rod bearing - it will have to shaved
and resized.

Depending on what you find, how your shop is equipped , time frame and your personal experience. This maybe time to consider a replacement long block engine ?
As previously stated if the coolant corrosion inhibitor has not been checked and allowed to deplete. The sleeves may well be rotten and the bottom end dosed with ethylene glycol.

Some engine removal info from the Deere tech
manual.

Thanks to all that responded. Great, I really like having to use special tools... I am decent about doing overhauls, so I do not see a problem here, just like to get info before getting started. One term I have not heard before "engined seized at cold startup"? Could you explain? Again thanks to all. Will let you know what happens.

David

Timing cover won't come out with the front end on.
easiest way to do it if you have an engine hoist or crane is to unhook all the lines,drain the coolant, remove the rad hoses and remove the front end, fuel tank, and radiator as an assembly. Then you can unbolt the engine from the bell housing and lift it off.