Clutch issue on my 58 620

On my 58 620 I am having an issue with the clutch not releasing. When I take off the cover and look at the 3 adjusting nuts only 2 are realeasing when the clutch lever is pulled back. The 3rd one seems to stay tight and trys to keep things going. If I push brakes hard I can get it to stop but the clutch is still biting hard. Never had one apart before. Thanks.!!
 
There should be 3 springs underneath the pressure plate (outside plate) If a spring is broken it could cause a draggy clutch, but I'm betting you have bigger fish to fry that you will see when you dissassemble it.

Also make sure your pulley brake is in adjustment as described in the operator's manual. If your brake allows the lever to come back too far it begins to re-engage the clutch.
 
It sounds to me like a toggle has gone over center, which does not respond to the movement of the operating sleeve.

A complete tear down is needed.
 
The 620-630 models for some reason must have a problem with the ears breaking in the backside of the pulley where the dogs mount to. You may want to remove the pulley and inspect these as if one breaks that bolt shouldn't be able to move.
People offer reman pulleys and some on this site have fixed them on there own.
 
If the pulley hasn't been off in the past 3-5 years. It needs to be removed, everything taken apart, cleaned and inspected.
 
My 620 is doing the same thing. It is worse when it is cold out. In the summer it stops but takes a little longer than it should.
 
While working on my 1958 JD 620 clutch I found one of the clutch dog pivots broken off and the parts were missing. I started looking for a used pulley but there are few out there and priced around $600. Seems that the JD 620~630 tractors have the problem of breaking the pivots.
So I decided to repair my pulley instead. I started by making a blank pivot from steel and then machined the broken pivot off flush with the base of the pulley. I then made a jig that matched the good pivot on the pulley to position the new pivot correctly during welding. A welding shop welded the pivot on for $40. After the welding was done I balanced the pulley by drilling material from the pulley just as mother Deere did when the pulley was first made.
Put everything together and adjusted and tested …..works great with a nice snap !
Once I got going on this clutch project it wasn’t too bad and I encourage anyone with a broken pulley to repair their own…relatively cheap if you can do some of the work yourself. Good Luck, Rich



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Mike,

We used a pillow block set up and spun it by hand….had sporadic repeatability success.
Ended up trying to drill out the amount of extra weld by eyesight estimate…..Either we got lucky with the amount we took out or there is some leeway in the (balance zone) as the pulley runs real smooth.
Rich
 

Mike,

Yes the theory was the heavy side would fall to the bottom. If we clamped a chunk of metal to the outer pulley it would always stop on the down side….but as we got closer to (balance ) it would not stop at the same place every time. Harder to overcome bearing resistance…..I suppose.
I wonder if using a bubble balancer….. would the pulley diameter be large enough to make a change in balance ?

Merry Christmas, Rich
 


Well, did a search on 620 clutch issues and bam! up came this from me back in 08. :lol: I got things freed up and also one of the ears in the back was broken. It had been broken for the whole time I have had the tractor as someone had jury rigged it. I am finally in need of some parts now as tractor has been sitting for 4 years. Rust has taken over on the clutch facings and disks. I also still have the broken pulley issue as well. I'm looking at some serious coin for all I need. The only part I don't see availabe new is the outermost clutch plate. ( the one where the castle nuts go nearest the clutch dust cover )
 

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