overheating 2040

woodbutcher

Well-known Member
I've replaced the water pump, thermostat, temp sender, and flushed the radiator. Nothing has changed the way the gauge goes to the hot range after it runs for 15 minutes. Before I replace the gauge, I think I'll try to flush the system again. An IR gun seems to indicate that the flow stops at the thermostat, but sludge could be stopping it. The problem began when I used concentrated Fleet Charge mixed with our local water as the coolant after the flush. There seems to be a sludge that has formed in the cooling system. This time I'll go with the pre-mix Fleet Charge. Has anybody heard of this causing a similar problem? Is there a drain in the lower part of the block to drain coolant? The lower radiator hose goes into the block above its center line.
Butch
 
There's a drain valve or plug on the left side of the engine towards the back. I would run a good cooling system flush through at least twice.
 
Since cylinder liner failures from cavitation have become so prevalent in the last few years there is no way I'd put tap water in a cooling system. Are you positive thermostat is installed correctly IE not upside down?
 

I hope those people who advocate using tap water in cooling systems and batteries will read this post.
It's demineralized, distilled water + concentrate or pre-mix only.
 
Might it be possible this gunk/sludge you mention has plugged the tiny weep hole or notch in the thermostat thereby preventing the slow escape of cold water as the engine warms up?

Minnie Z's had the thermostat way up in the back face of the radiator top tank & they used to boil over regularly if you started working too quickly with them. There was so much water in the upper hose that the coolant in the water jacket could reach boiling before all the cold water bled past the thermostat letting the hot water open it.

Might gunk in that hole be your only problem?
 

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