Rebuilding my 60 fuel auto-shutoff...Paint?

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
I bought the kit to rebuild the auto shutoff on my 60's sediment bowl assembly. I'm now scraping 60 years worth of gunk off the parts. There's paint under there, but the tractor had been repainted before I got it. were they painted from factory, or leave it unpainted?
 
I would almost bet that the aluminum housing was
painted green when the rest of the tractor was
painted. I myself would leave it aluminum color
like I did on my 620 orchard. reason for this is if
ANY gas gets on it from a small leak somewhere,
even around the sediment bowl, it will eat the
paint and wrinkle it. besides, leaving it
unpainted gives it a bit of DETAIL, and looks a
little sharper standing out. Just my opinion, lets
hear some more.
 

Good luck with the diaphrams, Sounds like the new ones are not lasting..

I would incorporate a Manual shut-off in the fuel line as a personal safety preference.

If you do get fuel in the oil, you can solder the brass fitting closed that the oil line fastens to and everything still looks original..

Ron.
 
Suit your self, but I have not painted them for the reasons
mentioned.

When handling those diaphragms keep this in mind.

Automatic fuel shutoff

My JD 520 was acting-up and found that a stuck float/ float
valve....no gas getting into Carb. With the drain plug removed
from the CARB. there was no gas in the CARB. There was
however gas getting to the CARB. as gasoline was flowing
from the auto. shut off until the AUTO shut off was drained.
The neighbours 620 had a problem so I used the below rebuild
PROCEDURE from the "MACHINERY MAN"
You need to put all the diaphragms in place and really slightly
tighten all the screws...then push the plunger down... after
loosing the top locking screw...with this held down then evenly
tighten all the screws...this relaxes the diaphragm and keeps it
from stretching too much and tearing up after
installation...most people don't put these in correctly ....same
principal we used in putting diaphragms in the fuel
pumps...there's a technique Procedure was originally posted
by the MACHINERY MAN
Thanks MACHINERY MAN
Bob.......
 
I've always wondered which engineer decided to install these. Can't find anywhere who took ownership of this worthless ideal as "no" other manufacturer ever saw the need. I've had dozens of tractors and I can assure you that if the tractor had an engine problem or was in an accident bind, there is enough fuel left in the carb and this device to destroy or injure someone. A value shut off with a rod,lever,or switch to dash would have been the best.
 
I always use the below PROCEDURE and have installed manual shut of valves on my JD 520, three of my JD 'D'Ds and the neighbours JD 620 and B.
You need to put all the diaphragms in place and really slightly tighten all the screws...then push the plunger down... after loosing the top locking screw...with this held down then evenly tighten all the screws...this relaxes the diaphragm and keeps it from stretching too much and tearing up after installation...most people don't put these in correctly ....same principal we used in putting diaphragms in the fuel pumps...there's a technique Procedure was originally posted by the MACHINERY MAN
Thanks MACHINERY MAN
I also attach a CLEAR plastic hose to the bottom of the sediment BOWL so as to visually check the level of the gasoline in the bowl.
Bob...
a174479.jpg

a174482.jpg
 
Thanks for pointing this FIRE potential:
I have several KEVLAR / SILICONE high heat resistant FUEL LINES from a J79 Turbine used on STAR FIGHTERS,PHANTONM ll's,F104's and other Planes. As well as Rolls Royce SPEY 16,000 HP
I shall install PRONTO.
HEAT SHIELD INFO:
A-AE102/624-AS1072-11 SIL-FG
Thanks again Sir.
Bob...
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a174494.jpg
 
Thanks for the pointers regarding assembly. I have it together - unpainted - and back on the tractor. Seems to be working fine. I'll keep the old bladder halves in case the new ones leak. The biggest problem was the rubber gasket on the plunger was gone. Maybe I should have just replaced that.
 
Diaphragms used to last for many, many years. Now some tractors with the diaphragm are having recurring trouble and some are not. I've replaced the diaphragm in my 630 twice in the last 54 years. A neighbor's 630 has had a rotted, bubbled up diaphragm three times in the past six years or so. Both of us use that evil ethanol stuff. Im starting to think the new diaphragms are just more Chinese junk making it to our shores.
 
I would get a tubing bender and make a steel line, that is about the most unsafe fuel routing I have seen in a long time.
 
I think John Deere saw the error in their ways and on the new generation tractor the shut off was at the main jet and the tractor would shut down almost immediately.
 

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