3010 slow hydraulic help

Hey guys, need some more guidance. You helped me in the past with my synchro clutches...now it's the hydraulics. My 3010 gas has a single remote which worked ok in the spring. I noticed my 60 actually ran my log splitter a little faster than the 3010 but it wasn't much different. Then late this summer I put a 46A loader on the 3010 and put it in the single remote. It was strong enough to lift the front end of the tractor off the ground but the hydraulics slowly got weaker after just a few weeks of use. Now it barely picks the loader up at all. The steering works but stalls out easily, the 3pt works but very slowly, brakes are ok. Here is what i've done so far

1) new hyd filter, it was already new from the synchro work but I replaced it anyway. No difference in hydraulics.
2) pulled low pressure pump suction screen, it was probably 90% plugged. After cleaning, no difference in hydraulics.
3) left filter cover off, started tractor, and pumped into a bucket. Probably half filled the bucket in about 30 seconds.
4) checked standby pressure with a gauge in the remote and the loader unhooked from the hydraulics...got 800psi.
5) turned the stroke control valve in, turned it out...no difference in standby pressure regardless of the valve adjustment.

From all the old posts i've read, I'm pretty convinced the stroke control valve is stuck or needs work. Here is the help i need. Should I plumb my gauge in somewhere else to make sure it's the stroke control valve? I read in one post that you can change the stroke control with the pump on the tractor, is that really true or should I just drop the pump out and go through the whole thing? Am I missing anything before diving into this?

You gave some nice and complete info,, and I thing your stroke valve is stuck and it can be changed with out pulling the pump but it's not easy, if you drop the pump out,,and out the bottom is the best way,,you should go ahead and re-seal it, I can do that here for you and bench test the pump for about $400, or if you can handle it your self I will walk you through it, and you should plumb the loader off to it's self instead of using the SCV on the rear.

Tim S, thanks for the quick reply. I'm all about tackling this myself. I will see if I have any luck with it on engine before dropping the pump out. I'll let you know what I find but it may be a few weeks before I get back to it.

I did already start to get the loader plumbed in direct. I have replaced the elbow above the brake valve and the elbow near the hydraulic filter with tees. The tees are capped off until I can get some quick disconnects and then i'll plug in the loader direct to free up my remote again.

The loader will work a lot nicer when you get that part changed over, the stroke valve will need to be 'tapped' out of the bore, a 5/16" bolt can act as a driver, then it will need 'seated' into place, a 1/2" socket 1/4" drive and a 4" extension can seat it, you want to ovoid hitting the stem of the valve. and you will need an extra shirt, you will end up with oil in your arm pit,,Darn it

I"ll add to what Tim stated by asking a question. Is the FEL valve closed or open center. I'll bet the log splitter valve is an open center valve which will cause poor hyd function on a CC system.
You can remove male coupler tip from FEL return hose and with control levers in neutral apply hyd pressure to FEL valve & if no oil flows out return oil hose it's a CC valve. Another option for returning hyd oil is in shown in photo below.

Tim S....thanks a ton. I put in a new stroke control valve and new o-rings this afternoon with the pump on the tractor. Fired it up and had around 2500 psi standby pressure. I'll get it adjusted down to 2250, finish plumbing the loader direct, and i'll be in business. Thank you sincerely for the help.