730 power steerting pump removal

This pump was removed once previously since it's got an unpainted pump block. I've taken these out before without having to take the radiator loose but this one doesn't have enough clearance for the shaft to come put of the fan drive tube. The previous guy must have cut the sleeve for just his purpose, but even with that it won't come out. I've tried to rotate the tube inside the ventilator pump housing to see if it will move back, but no dice there either - it rotates but won't move rearward.

I just put a new radiator in it last year and am concerned with dinging up the fins with the fan blades if I get rough with it.

Anyone have any ideas on how best to do this?

Thanks,

Wes
 
I just did a 720 and I've done a 730 in the past. Both times I removed the 2 bolts from the lower water pipe flange where it bolts to the head and then the 3 bolts that hold the thermostat house to the top rad tank. Then removed the 2 bolts that come up through the frame into the bottom rad tank and you can slide everything forward enough to get that pump out. A little more work but I don't think its possible to get it out otherwise without doing a lot of damage to your core. Good luck!
 
Arron is right. Remove the bolts through the frame to the bottom of the rad and slide it foward. I had to do a 720 this way.
 
Well, I did get it apart as you described. The Woodruff key on the idler gear is worn.

My real reason for taking it out was that when it warmed up, the power steering wouldn't work well. When cold, it seemed to work tolerably. I've just overhauled and restored the tractor so I really don't know much on it's history. I think I've got the valve body together and adjusted correctly and do have gauges on it. The pressure would also drop when warm. I also had to put an overhauled pedestal in the tractor. It was a basket case.

Anyway, I measured the thickness of the gears and the middle piece of the pump body. There is about .002" clearance - within specs. I also measured the OD of the gears and both of them are also within specs. However, the pump body ID is .002" over the max spec. That gives .008 total clearance between the OD of the gears and the ID of the pump body. Is this contributing to my problem? Is there reason to replace it?

I'm planning to get the new key but am wondering if I should see if I can get a new pump body (if JD has it).

Thanks for any help you can provide....

Wes
 

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