Model G (and others) Alternator Conversion

kylew01

Member
I have a few questions about a generator to alternator conversion that I'm doing on a model G. First, let me tell you what I have done/know.

• Replaced Generator with Alternator
• Took the wire that was on "bat" terminal to the post on the alternator

What do I do with the other wire that came off of the "Gen" terminal? Is there anything else I need to do, or have I done something wrong?

Thanks!!!
 
(quoted from post at 20:25:01 11/10/14) So far so good, but we need to know which alternator to help with the rest of it.

It's a Delco GM (?) alternator.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZZB64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't remember if I mentioned it, but I also switched the ground to negative ground.
 
Ok, yep that's a one wire Delco so you are almost done there. Disconnect battery until you are ready to start it up. Always a good idea to put a charger on it so your new charging system doesn't have to bend itself over backwards working hard to charge up a run down battery. Fold back the other wire and tape it up good so it doesn't ever touch anything, this is the old 'boost' generator signal from the light switch it has no more purpose in life. Then swap wires on your ammeter posts since you've also switched from positive to negative ground or it will read backwards.

Skip this part if you have a magneto, it doesn't apply. Because of the ground polarity switch you need to also switch the wires at the coil, the wire to the distributor will now be connected to the coil post with the negative mark on it - the minus sign. And finally if you've gone to 12 volts from 6 you also need to buy either a ballast resistor or a 3 ohm, 12 volt ignition coil. Ballast resistor is cheaper, it goes in line with the coil supply wire going back to the ignition switch. So you move the supply wire from the coil to one end of the resistor and make a new wire from the other end of the resistor that will connect to the + terminal of the coil. Using the resistor allows you to keep using your old 6 volt coil - it's done this way all the time. Without the resistor, a 6 volt coil will burn up points rather quickly running on 12 volts. If you get a new coil just get a 3 ohm, 12 volt one and then you don't need the resistor at all, just hook the coil supply wire to the + terminal on the coil with the distributor lead going to the negative terminal of the coil.

6 to 12 volts also means new 12 volt lights are needed, 6 volt bulbs will work for a while but expect them to burn out very soon.

Just make very sure your starter cable is going to the positive post of the battery before connecting the grounded cable to the negative post. Positive post is bigger than negative post on the battery so you should have to adjust your battery connectors to account for this size difference. Happens a lot, people set out to change ground polarity and forget to turn the battery around !! Test this final connection with a passing swipe of the cable end to the post - if it's wrong you will see sparks here and you might NOT burn up your new alternator if done quickly and lightly enough. No sparks, you're good to start it up, ammeter should show some charge, maybe more with lights on.
 

Lee,

Thanks for that great information. I've searched high and low for a good simple explanation, and yours is the best one out there.

I've done everything that mentioned, and I think everything is well now. However, the cable that you mentioned tying off goes to the lights. Without this cable plugged in, the light won't turn on. Is there a specific place I should run it to? Would it hurt to also run it to the one post on the alternator?

Thanks again!
 
Does anyone know if it's okay to run the wire from the light switch to the post on the alternator as well? Without the other wire running, the lights won't go on because there's not a complete circuit for the lights.

Thanks!
 

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