H BRAKES REPLACEMENT

Neils · Oct 30, 2014

I HAVE BEEN RESTORING MY 45 H AND IM ON THE HOME STRETCH WITH THE AXLES AND BRAKES, THE AXLES ARE READY TO REINSTALL WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE BRAKES. ALL THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARIVED, I INSTALLED THE AXLE SEALS AND NOW IM LOOKING FOR ADVICE/TRICKS/SHORTCUTS TO INSTALLING THE NEW SHOES. IVE REPLACED MY SHARE OF DRUM BREAKS BUT THESE HAVE TO BE THE MOST DIFFICULT IVE COME ACCROSS. IM SURE SOMBODY HAS COME UP WITH A SIMPLE WAY TO INSTALL THESE, THANKS IN ADVANCE...

Mike M · Oct 30, 2014

It's been a Long time since I did some H brakes ,but I use to do a lot of them. I don't recall anything special I had to do ? Sometimes the more off the wall adventures I tend to remember better.
Usually on these 2 cyl. brakes I hook the 2 shoes together with the springs and then set one shoe into place and then use a heavy screw driver or pry bar and stretch the springs by prying over on the loose shoe and then shove it into place.
Do you have the book (original owners manuals show this well) with the procedure to set the bearing preload ? From what I remember it involves just putting in the upper bolt and being able to stick a feeler gauge in the bottom ? when the outer retainers are tightened up. There are also washers that should be installed to limit the differential side play to something like 1/32" ?

Mike(NEOhio) · Oct 30, 2014

Just be sure the pins with the rounded ends are facing the right way or they won't work. Use a pry bar or large screw driver. The two disks must straddle the ridge on the pin. And don't use a hammer to put the pedals on to the shaft.

Jethro Lilley · Oct 31, 2014

No secrets... I installed new shoes on mine last fall... just pry them in place like Mike said. I found out that I had to stick my tongue out of the corner of my mouth just right before they would go on. By the way... make sure the 1/4" weep hole in the bottom of the housing is open. Also, after making sure the bearing end-play is right with a feeler gauge (shouldn't be an issue unless new bearings are used,)loosen the end-cap bolts about 1/4" before you tighten the housing to the tractor. Then turn the axle by hand as you draw them back snug a half-turn each in a circular pattern. This ensures there is no bind in the bearings. Should be able to turn the axle by hand after everything is tight. If not, then add shims under the cap and repeat the process. Do this without the dust cap (so as not to damage it) then take the end cap bolts off, add the dust cap, and put it back together.

H BRAKES REPLACEMENT

Neils

Member

Mike M

Well-known Member

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member

Jethro Lilley

Member

Similar threads