4020 powershift will not start using push button

Dweitzel

Member
How do I go about trouble testing the push button starter on my 1965 Powershift 4020?

I have dash lights with the key, the starter button does nothing, no clicking of the starter solenoid or anything from the starter.

I can start it by pushing down the inching pedal and jumping the starter solenoid upper battery post to the outer trigger post.

Can you please advise me what to test on the key switch? I'm assuming one wire from the push button goes to the key switch to pick up 12 volts and then out the other wire to the outside trigger post on the solenoid.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
There is a neutral safety switch on the "clutch pedal", on the LH side of the tractor, and one in the shift valve area more or less down below your right heal as you sit on the seat.

They are series, yellow wires to them. If either is open or there is a bad connection at either, the solenoid won't engage.
 
Use a jumper wire on each of the neutral start switch wire connectors that Bob mentions. If the push button works when one neutral switch is jumped, that neutral switch is bad. If both are ok, and jumping the push button makes the starter turn over, the push button is bad.
 
I had a neighbour that started his 1967 powershift for years with the screwdriver - we did an engine rebuild - checked into his starting problem - the wire from the push button to the starter solenoid was corroded and had broken 3 inches from the starter solenoid stud - the break was inside the insulated cover - would check the safety switches and pushbutton first like the other guys said, but run a wire from the solenoid directly to the pushbutton and try that as well
 
If this tractor is a diesel that was converted to 12 volts, and a starter relay was not added, there may not be enough voltage to operate the starter solenoid. The starting circuit is made with 16 gauge wire, and with the total length of the circuit from the start button, to the 1st safety switch, to the 2nd safety switch, and then to the starter solenoid, the remaining voltage may not be enough to overcome the solenoid return spring tension, engage the drive, and make the electrical connection in the solenoid. There was an article in the Electrical Rebuilders Association newspaper about this exact problem when a replacement starter solenoid was installed on a compact tractor. The return spring in the replacement solenoid had a greater tension than the original solenoid. It was great enough to resist the magnetic force of the solenoid, so that the drive would not move far enough to complete the drive engagement and make electrical contact. Installing a relay cured the problem.
Agri Services
 
Thanks Jim. Forgot to say it is the stock 24 volts. The tractor started normally in the morning. Did about 5 hours of bush hogging and it stalled when I was lifting the batwing up (I had the idle too low) and when I tried to restart it, (never turned the key off), nothing would happen using the push button. Tractor has been starting fine for a couple of years since I've owned it.

Where ever the push button picks up 12 volts is where I probably need to go next. I did not know there is a second neutral safety switch under the right side of the operator's station. I think that's ok because when I hold down the inching pedal, turn the key, then jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, it starts up normally.
 
Just an idea, if you were bush hogging maybe the neutral switch wire got pulled off down at the bottom of the transmission case.
 
(quoted from post at 09:17:27 11/01/14) I think that's ok because when I hold down the inching pedal, turn the key, then jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, it starts up normally.

Although I agree that for safety sake holding down inching pedal is the correct thing to do when shorting across starter solenoid. In reality that doesn't indicate whether either of neutral start switches are making contact because you are "bypassing both of them" by shorting across solenoid.
 
John, you win the prize (Or a big thank you). It was the neutral safety switch on the lower right side of the transmission. The 2 prong connector became disconnected from the switch. Probably by some brush dragging the underneath.

Thanks. Learned something about my tractor today that there are definitely TWO safety switches and thanks to Jim, that jumping the solenoid bypasses the safety switches. Thanks to all.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top