8630 hydraulics update

francis

Member
ok ,this weekend I removed pump under cab in between hinge area,and disassembled,the clutch pump,all gears inside look good,none broke,and I cleaned it up,reassembled,and reinstalled all,even shaft is good as well,then I cleaned out inner bottom of sump with diesel,and flushontinuously,then drained all 3 drains because screens were getting stopped up a 2nd time,and then ran 10 gallons of oil thru bottom end 2 times drainind out each sump filter area 2 times to make sure no diesel was in the bottom end,then got everything installed,and plugged,and oil in,,,started tractor,and the same thing happened,the clutch pump is working ,but all hydraulics go away in about 5 minutes,i did remove the plunger or relief valve from oil filter holder and made sure it looked good,and worked in and out and it is not stuck,can move,,does anyone know if I should pull rockshaft housing and check rear transmission pump?i was told by an ex john deere mechanic,next to the top link theres a plug,pull it out,and remove the long shaft to see if its worn out on inner end,well this 8630 don't have one,so I closed it back up,thats whats going on now,thanks in alice texAS
 
The rear pump is not the problem,, the front pump makes the oil pressure for the clutch and charge oil,,the problem is still in that area...and No articulated Deere ever had a pump drive shaft under the top link...
 
yes its being driven by bthe shaft sir,i pulled pump apart,,and the gear is driven further up front by a bigger gear,its all intact and is in place,nothing sheared on shaft,or in pump
 
the one im worried about,or kinda feel like looking at is the pump under rockshaft cover,but if screen can pull stuff up to it,that almost tells me pump in there is working
but yes the pump with 4 gears in it is working,manually by hand,and also no sheared keys
 
pump connects to a star fitting as it goes into place to have oil filter holder mountedthat is still a nice fit too
 
The rear pump is only a lube pump,, the trouble is in the charge pump area,,for sure,,the front main pump has nothing to do with clutch pressure,,some thing is being over looked,, start looking to see if any oil is leaving the charge pump,, my guess is no...then back to seeing why not...
 
I wonder if the live PTO drive from the clutch cover could be stripped?

Francis... IIRC, you cleaned the very front sump screen. And metal there?
 
(quoted from post at 17:17:20 10/19/14) The rear pump is only a lube pump,, the trouble is in the charge pump area,,for sure,,the front main pump has nothing to do with clutch pressure,,some thing is being over looked,, start looking to see if any oil is leaving the charge pump,, my guess is no...then back to seeing why not...
where does it go from charge pump?i thought back into the sump,or to the main pump?seems kike oil is not going back into sump,i thought that because the pump before I pulled it out there was a lot of oil that had to drain before I pulled it all the way out,could it be the sump screen that feeds the main clutch pump?im a good mechanic,but this is hard for me to figure out,im in a tight spot right now,
I did check the spring loaded valve and its movable inside of the oil filter housing,,just don't know what else to check,everything works perfect,then goes away it seems
 
no metal,but screen wasdirty,,,the live drive is a star shaped female,and the pump plugs into it just fine and snug too
 
its just hard to see it start up so good,and run good,and then I can drive it,lift disc,fold disc,raise 3 point,and steer tractor,then all goes away,just don't know what else to do
 
Oil from clutch pump goes to clutch valve (unit where clutch pedal linkage connects to), and provides operating pressure for clutch, 2-apeed, PTO clutch, and PTO brake.

When those needs are met, and clutch operating pressure is reached, pressure regulating valve sends excess oil forward to oil cooler, and then it supplies the main pump.

Area ahead of hinge (where pump mounts) is supposed to be a "dry sump", as the "scavenge section" of the clutch pump is slightly larger and sends oil rearward, to the area behind the hinge.

Oil supply for the clutch pump is from the rear of the hinge, from the middle one of the 3 screens.
 
so what you are saying meaning I have a bad pump,is also if my shaft is bad,it would be stripped out where its star mounting to pump is,or the shaft could be sheared off where the drive is,but I can pull on the shaft,and it doesn't pull out because it has a snap ring holding it,and also,cant turn it whiletractor is off either,,and inside the pump,all is intact,no gears broke,and no keyways sheared,i did tear into there,but I just don't see any thing bad,i worked for 18 years in a machine shop and would be able to tell if theres wear,but I didn't bring a set of calipers to check fit but it does have a very good fit,and no rounded off area in fitting,where else is there to look inside of the pump for something bad,lines are also hot too up at very front pump tim that turns off of crankshaft too,its turning ,but I understand one part of pump delivers oil to clutch,and other gears send oil back to sump,just cant figure where something is stopping at,thanks
 
I know that you are understanding the way it works, and if the pump was bad enough to not work it would have surly looked bad, with out Mic-ing it..There must be a reason for it working a bit then quitting,,,I'm wondering if it's sucking some air,,maybe a rub or something in the suction pipe/hose area,,it is odd that it will work a bit then quit, and i am understanding that it quits moving,,so that is clutch oil pressure failure. It's tough to get to the clutch operating valve to get a gauge on...the 30's didn't have a opening in the side frame for access like the 40's do,,and if it was pumping oil there is normally no problem in the valve area,,I think there is a filter bypass valve,,I can't remember just where it is at the moment,,but thinking again about what you have and don't have,,,an air leak in the suction pipe is a thought....I'm trying to help you think this out as I work here this morning... I know what it's like to be drawing a blank on a problem like this...mail me when you can, my box is open in the classic view..
 
Hyd filter by pass is in 1st photo
mvphoto12159.gif

Has this filter been checked.
mvphoto12160.gif
 
Jim, that valve is in back, and (IIRC) only function return oil and maybe oil from the elusive rear pump flow though it.

IMHO, it wouldn't affect clutch pressure or flow from the clutch pump up ahead of the hinge.
 
Tim, what do you make of him stating in an earlier post that a lot of oil runs out when he removes the clutch pump, as it's supposed to be a dry sump up there. Or is it just oil from internal porting to the dual pump?

Also, what did you think of my thought that the live PTO drive splines could be stripped?

(As you know the live PTO drive train also drives the clutch pump.)
 
Yes Bob, you are correct with the valve Jim pictured,,and I am also wondering about the drive stripping,, but I would think it would not drive at all,, francis states that it will move for a bit then quit,,that confuses my thoughts...but directs me to think about sucking air some where..that is a long suction route,,and the oil draining out when he got into it could be coming from the clutch housing sump, that would want to gravity out from there...I am sure that the entire problem is centered with no clutch oil pressure,but there appears to be "some' for a bit then "none",,,I have seen the clutch pump wear out on them,,,in fact I have seen about every thing that can wear out in one of these,years back I would have at least one here in the shop all the time..
a172106.jpg
 
I wonder if the pto. shaft is stripped at the flywheel and/or if the clutch operating seals have blown. without gauges its like a monkey chasing his tail . He also mentioned the pipes from the front are getting hot, indicating a high pressure leak .
 
(quoted from post at 09:50:31 10/20/14) Jim, that valve is in back, and (IIRC) only function return oil and maybe oil from the elusive rear pump flow though it.

IMHO, it wouldn't affect clutch pressure or flow from the clutch pump up ahead of the hinge.

Thanks for correction. Having very limited 4WD(articulated) experience I was going by index listing of hyd filter relief valve.
 
gentlemen,by reading what you all are talking about,and what im trying to accomplish,im starting to ask my self,what if the clutch has a sticking bypass valve and when its stuck,then there wouldn't be no oil getting thru to the stuck open valve,and then filling the clutch housing as well?man guys this tractor had all the updates on it with 8650 motor too,and now im wondering whether to pump out the left tanks and right and pull off the tank and check the valves too where clutch run into,,i don't mind the hard work and time,but now john deere is getting ready to go out finally and do some pressure checks for me to isolate the real problem,i never just seen this happen before,
 
Jim, I believe there's another filter relief up front somewhere, likely in the filter "head" of the filter attached to the clutch pump, so there COULD be a filter relief involved.
 
Francis, as I posted before, there should be NO significantresidual oil in that area in front of the hinge.

The clutch pump is a dual pump, one of which pulls oil from the rear to provide clutch operating pressure, and the other (IIRC, with wider gears/more capacity) constantly scavenges the bottom of the clutch and gear (PTO drive) housing ahead of the hinge, preventing a significant amount of oil from lingering there.

The rear end is the reservoir, where the oil needs to be.

Any buildup up oil up front would point to a problem in the "scavenge pump" circuit, either a clogged sump screen, an air leak in the suction side, a pump problem, or the oil is somehow being restricted from being forced rearward.

I suppose normally the scavenge pump isn't rear busy, there would just be minor leaks from the clutch operating piston, the 2-speed, and the PTO clutch or brake.

And, of course, lube for the clutch and the bearing and gear train up there returns to the sumps and needs to get pumped to the back continuously.

A BIG clutch operating pressure leak at the engine clutch, 2-speed, PTO clutch or brake would add to that flow, but yet, by design, the larger scavenge pump should be able to keep ahead of any flow that gets dumped in the housing ahead of the hinge.

I am VERY curious as to what you find out... I wish I was close by, we'd get 'er figured out today!
 
When ever the clutch sump screen plugs or the scavenger pump fails oil fills the clutch housing and blows the timing plug out,,rather quickly..a front filter by pass valve could be in the picture,,but I keep wanting to blame the pump...
 
actually,the plug didn't blow out but I did see oil coming from the starter area,and seen it before all this went on,2 weeks before when I put in 2 new jd batteries then put my year old ones into my dads 4240,as for the filter check valves in the rear by hydraulic filter,should I pull them 2 check valves?that one picture I see looks like the housing mounted right close to rear hydraulic area,
 
Just read this entire post, HOLY COWFISH, you guys know a LOT of stuff. I'm a points and oil change guy. All the best in solving this problem. I look forward to the answer. HPH
 
The clutch housing screen is up in the front of the clutch housing,it is just like the other 2 in the rear, it is in line with the tractor, not cross ways,,it is a nasty one to get to..it is where #9 plug is,,the screen is not shown in this picture
a172156.jpg
 
hi tim andguys john deere came out to farm and done some testing,they said,whether the older guy that was familiar with these tractors vsays in torque divider is whats causing this problem,as for now I wont know for sure till I get it out for them to come pick up,and said cab has to come off to get to it,but im still going tro pull off the screen in front hinge area where I was told there is one,ill keep you posted on whats going to go on,thanks
 
Torque divider???

Remove the cab????

There's no "torque divider" in the front half of the tractor, and the two-speed planetary is easily removed from the hinge area after removing the upper driveshaft bearing quill.

And the main dutch is serviced by pulling the engine.

Only thing I can think of that might require the cab to come off is if the live PTO drivetrain has failed (which also drives the famous pump you have been working with).
 
The "only" reason for pulling the cab,, is to change the cab,, all else can be repaired with out pulling the cab..and the cab is the only part of one of these that I have never had off....
 
Yes Jim that is the intake tube coming from the rear case,, the clutch sump is in the from of the clutch housing, and a nasty one to deal with. And Bob is correct (sounds like you have been in these Bob) the High/low comes out the rear, a tight fit,5 Allen headed bolts under the rear bearing guill, but very do-able,,my thoughts are the Deere tech that went out on this one don't know what he's talking about....and I seriously doubt if the hi/low has anything to do with this problem.. I'm still calling the clutch pump bad, or "maybe" sucking air in the pipe Jim has pictured..
 
Yes this one is the front screen, it is in line with the engine, the other 2 are cross ways in the rear case..
 
im thinking the same,cab shouldn't have to come off,and the 2 sump filtwers on rear have been cleaned,,,however the screen at front hinge area is the one im going to deal with this afternoon,soon as I found where tim says it is,could be the problem as well as the rubber line sucking air too on each end,,but yeah,,the filter inline with the motor is the one im going to look for this afternoon,i wont have no internet service but I do have my phone with me,hopefulli ill be able to get plug out with buckest under clean hinge area ready too,thanks guys for advise,and I did tell the dealer bout the long lifting bar I seen in the book on how to get that setup outr from center hinge area too,hope they will listen,
I still think it has to do with a filter relief valve in a way because as soon as something gets warm it all happens,,but I still listen to you guys that been around a lot of these 8630s,thanks guys
 
A long plastic funnel will help direct the oil to a bucket,,the oil will "not" go to a bucket with out it,,it will go every where else but...and I still vote for a weak trans pump,, but go ahead and change every thing but the radiator cap till you decide the pump "is" bad...
 
I pulled the drain plug underneath to get 24 gallons of oil out of the front hinge area,got the screen cleaned out and still got the problem,but more than likely ill change out the pump before I get the very top pieces out,i know u don't need to pull the cab for this,but I was thinking about that top plate and stuff behind it because my cousins changed one out one time,but im not sure it was because of a leak,he told me to go look at it to get an idea,sounded more like they changed it because it had a worn gear on it,is why it was removed,was on an 8640
 
the screen wasn't as dirty as I thought it was going to be but it was the by far hardest to get out,talk about a long reach to get a 1/2 inch extention in,but it does feel good knowing theres a cleaner one,well I did put a new screen in while down there,,i found it easier pulling the center pump behind the fuel tank than fighting that plug I can tell you that,,but tim,im wondering,,if theres not a leak in the center housing,,how does all the oil stay in the bottom end that's getting in there?is it really because of the pump simply not pumping it out?or can that pump actually leak as well?maybe theres too much clearance where gears mesh up?and not pulling oil out fast enough?i seen a crack on one of the plates on the pump when I had it out but on the o.d.,but 1/4 inch long in an area where it looked like there is a cut out made for drainage,but didn't think it could lose oil,but im thinking now it sure might be able to suck air thru it sir,
 
24 GALLONS up front in what should be a "dry sump"???

Pretty obvious something is wrong with the scavenge pump system that is supposed to be "bucketing" that oil to the rear section of the tractor, where it belongs!

The clutch oil pump depends upon a supply of oil from the REAR section, with that much oil up front, it's obviously starving for oil, and that is why the clutch doesn't engage.

Are you sure the keys are intact in both oil pump gears that the oil pump shaft passes through so that both sections of the pump are being driven?

There HAS to be something simple wrong with either the pump intake (from the screen you just cleaned), or the scavenge "transfer" section of the pump.
 
Bob knows what is going on here too,, Francis is chasing his tail checking all but where the problem is..
 
Yes Bob that would be about "All" the oil pumped into the clutch housing,, I am very surprised that the timing hole plug has not blown out.. So if the clutch pump works for a bit, and the tractor trys to move for a bit,,it's possible that the charge pump is pumping the clutch housing full, then cavitating,, because all the oil has been sucked out of the rear case, then all stops working,, so when he pulled the pump a lot of oil drained out of the clutch housing,, and maybe after it sets a while the trapped oil would slowly drain back to the rear housing,,then letting it work for a bit starting the cycle all over again..so we are back to pointing at the charge/scavenger pump.....with a little reasoning behind our thoughts...
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:37 10/27/14) Yes Bob that would be about "All" the oil pumped into the clutch housing,, I am very surprised that the timing hole plug has not blown out.. So if the clutch pump works for a bit, and the tractor trys to move for a bit,,it's possible that the charge pump is pumping the clutch housing full, then cavitating,, because all the oil has been sucked out of the rear case, then all stops working,, so when he pulled the pump a lot of oil drained out of the clutch housing,, and maybe after it sets a while the trapped oil would slowly drain back to the rear housing,,then letting it work for a bit starting the cycle all over again..so we are back to pointing at the charge/scavenger pump.....with a little reasoning behind our thoughts...

Francis...

Have you checked the dipstick in the back? You surely don't have twenty-some gallons of HYGARD in the back (where it's supposed to be) AND another 24 gallons up front, do you??????
 
na actually tim got me straight on all of this but I did run out of time to pull pump out again,instead ,I pulled the front dry sump drain out,caught all the oil,then put it bacvk in ,and pulled the front screen out,it was not stopped up,but was dirty enough to leave it out and put in a new one I always had in storage,and like you all saying,the oil pump is draining into the rear slowly,i believe that,and see it happening,but problem is now the time to pull it back out,and I will pull it back out,although I didn't see no damage to it,i didn't have my set of micrometers to check sizes closely,but all mesh together real nicely,and I did go to john deere today once I got back from farm and got some o rings I did need,and checked on the gears,they are about 200 each,not bad for the time it takes to cut your stock,bore out the hole,cut the keyway,then machine the o.d.,then the overall length,then cut the teeth in a 4th axis,and then send to heat treating ,I think the new gears is the best route to go once I take the micrometers to it,then check the flat plate in between for being warped or out of tolerance too,it cant hardly be out of tolerance much by looking at it the other day,the coloring of an oiled wheel turning in an area like this is common,and I see no bad wear on it,but the human eye cant tell wear either,im thinking about.0005 isn't too bad in tolerance,comes out to half thousandth,im haven't loked in my technical manual,but the flats on the gears,well im thinking they can be withing .ooo2 shouldn't hurt much,what im after id to look closer at the distance of where the teeth mesh at,that will tell me a lot more,the pin seems to have no wear on it by looking but the micrometers will tell the story on runout too,but never use a caliper,its only for reference,so I will leave it at home,just cant wait to get tractor turned all the way to the right again and pull pump out,more than anything I want to see just how close the tolerances are to be within limits of changing out,all keys were in ,so it don't leave much more to go wrong,im thinking from being around some of the union carbide pumps we used to build,that it might have a tolerance of .001 to the sides,if that,looks to be a very close fit thing we are dealing with,now I do remember reassembling it lasdt week,i didn't torque it to specs,but a little over,and gears did get a little snugger fitting,and that shouldn't be that mucgh to affect it,i am going to lap all areas of the pump faces if theres no warpage,but probably will buy all new gears,and center plate,and fron and rear plate to be safe and reassemble,torque right then see what tractor does,wont know this week because of other things I got going for some race bikes ive been building up,ill keep checking in with you guys too,thanks for the advice you all are helping me with,and I did have pump out once but all looked good,but I didn't take my micrometers because I didn't expect to need them,now had a gear been broke,id understand it,but theres no broke gears,so ill take tims advise,,just change it
 
sorry that was so long,but one question,,tim,,what did you see inside of the pumps you did replace?serious wear?or just everything looked right but pump just wasn't good enough?is there any other thing in the pump that I should be looking at besides the woodruff keys,and shaft that drives it?i just want to find out what makes them go bad?thanks tim,and guys,this is a learning experience for me,trying to mess with 4000 or more acres,,and having this simple problem on an 8630,,if it hadn't been updated when I was in hi school and new motor put in I would have swapped it in but its a good tractor,first time I ever seen this go on,,i seen it in my old 7020 I got when I was 16 and it was a rear pump,but that tractor was a lot different,but ill get it going,,thanks again,just trying to get things situated on this down in karnes city texas,i gotta keep care of this tractor,its a beauty still
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:28 10/27/14) na actually tim got me straight on all of this but I did run out of time to pull pump out again,instead ,I pulled the front dry sump drain out,caught all the oil,then put it bacvk in ,and pulled the front screen out,it was not stopped up,but was dirty enough to leave it out and put in a new one I always had in storage,and like you all saying,the oil pump is draining into the rear slowly,i believe that,and see it happening,but problem is now the time to pull it back out,and I will pull it back out,although I didn't see no damage to it,i didn't have my set of micrometers to check sizes closely,but all mesh together real nicely,and I did go to john deere today once I got back from farm and got some o rings I did need,and checked on the gears,they are about 200 each,not bad for the time it takes to cut your stock,bore out the hole,cut the keyway,then machine the o.d.,then the overall length,then cut the teeth in a 4th axis,and then send to heat treating ,I think the new gears is the best route to go once I take the micrometers to it,then check the flat plate in between for being warped or out of tolerance too,it cant hardly be out of tolerance much by looking at it the other day,the coloring of an oiled wheel turning in an area like this is common,and I see no bad wear on it,but the human eye cant tell wear either,im thinking about.0005 isn't too bad in tolerance,comes out to half thousandth,im haven't loked in my technical manual,but the flats on the gears,well im thinking they can be withing .ooo2 shouldn't hurt much,what im after id to look closer at the distance of where the teeth mesh at,that will tell me a lot more,the pin seems to have no wear on it by looking but the micrometers will tell the story on runout too,but never use a caliper,its only for reference,so I will leave it at home,just cant wait to get tractor turned all the way to the right again and pull pump out,more than anything I want to see just how close the tolerances are to be within limits of changing out,all keys were in ,so it don't leave much more to go wrong,im thinking from being around some of the union carbide pumps we used to build,that it might have a tolerance of .001 to the sides,if that,looks to be a very close fit thing we are dealing with,now I do remember reassembling it lasdt week,i didn't torque it to specs,but a little over,and gears did get a little snugger fitting,and that shouldn't be that mucgh to affect it,i am going to lap all areas of the pump faces if theres no warpage,but probably will buy all new gears,and center plate,and fron and rear plate to be safe and reassemble,torque right then see what tractor does,wont know this week because of other things I got going for some race bikes ive been building up,ill keep checking in with you guys too,thanks for the advice you all are helping me with,and I did have pump out once but all looked good,but I didn't take my micrometers because I didn't expect to need them,now had a gear been broke,id understand it,but theres no broke gears,so ill take tims advise,,just change it


For that gear pump NOT to work, there's GOT to be something obvious wrong in the pump, drive, or plumbing.

A little wear can make a hydraulic pump fail to build full pressure (making it worthless) but all this silly pump has to do is pump oil rearward at no significant pressure. I don't see where a LITTLE wear is gonna make it not work at all. With all that oil up front, it needs little or no suction to "lift" oil and prime.

The point being, if replacing the pump fixes the problem, well and good. I am just saying to check/inspect everything you can to rule out a plumbing or drive problem.
 
(quoted from post at 08:45:09 10/28/14)
(quoted from post at 21:06:28 10/27/14) na actually tim got me straight on all of this but I did run out of time to pull pump out again,instead ,I pulled the front dry sump drain out,caught all the oil,then put it bacvk in ,and pulled the front screen out,it was not stopped up,but was dirty enough to leave it out and put in a new one I always had in storage,and like you all saying,the oil pump is draining into the rear slowly,i believe that,and see it happening,but problem is now the time to pull it back out,and I will pull it back out,although I didn't see no damage to it,i didn't have my set of micrometers to check sizes closely,but all mesh together real nicely,and I did go to john deere today once I got back from farm and got some o rings I did need,and checked on the gears,they are about 200 each,not bad for the time it takes to cut your stock,bore out the hole,cut the keyway,then machine the o.d.,then the overall length,then cut the teeth in a 4th axis,and then send to heat treating ,I think the new gears is the best route to go once I take the micrometers to it,then check the flat plate in between for being warped or out of tolerance too,it cant hardly be out of tolerance much by looking at it the other day,the coloring of an oiled wheel turning in an area like this is common,and I see no bad wear on it,but the human eye cant tell wear either,im thinking about.0005 isn't too bad in tolerance,comes out to half thousandth,im haven't loked in my technical manual,but the flats on the gears,well im thinking they can be withing .ooo2 shouldn't hurt much,what im after id to look closer at the distance of where the teeth mesh at,that will tell me a lot more,the pin seems to have no wear on it by looking but the micrometers will tell the story on runout too,but never use a caliper,its only for reference,so I will leave it at home,just cant wait to get tractor turned all the way to the right again and pull pump out,more than anything I want to see just how close the tolerances are to be within limits of changing out,all keys were in ,so it don't leave much more to go wrong,im thinking from being around some of the union carbide pumps we used to build,that it might have a tolerance of .001 to the sides,if that,looks to be a very close fit thing we are dealing with,now I do remember reassembling it lasdt week,i didn't torque it to specs,but a little over,and gears did get a little snugger fitting,and that shouldn't be that mucgh to affect it,i am going to lap all areas of the pump faces if theres no warpage,but probably will buy all new gears,and center plate,and fron and rear plate to be safe and reassemble,torque right then see what tractor does,wont know this week because of other things I got going for some race bikes ive been building up,ill keep checking in with you guys too,thanks for the advice you all are helping me with,and I did have pump out once but all looked good,but I didn't take my micrometers because I didn't expect to need them,now had a gear been broke,id understand it,but theres no broke gears,so ill take tims advise,,just change it


For that gear pump NOT to work, there's GOT to be something obvious wrong in the pump, drive, or plumbing.

A little wear can make a hydraulic pump fail to build full pressure (making it worthless) but all this silly pump has to do is pump oil rearward at no significant pressure. I don't see where a LITTLE wear is gonna make it not work at all. With all that oil up front, it needs little or no suction to "lift" oil and prime.

The point being, if replacing the pump fixes the problem, well and good. I am just saying to check/inspect everything you can to rule out a plumbing or drive problem.


To add to the situation, I just looked on jdparts.com and didn't see a complete pump as being available, just pieces, although it MAY be shown on a different page than where I looked.
 
I think they were always as individual parts...and the housing wears along with the pump gears so it is necessary to change it all....
 
the pump all comes in pieces leaving me no choice but to check all the sizes of all parts,gotta break out the old micrometers it looks like,to rebuild all yhose parts,its about 1400.00 so im going to measure the gears first,and then the depths of where they ride,its the only way to do it I guess,i just got to read up in tech manual how much clearances I got
 
Get a good used assembly,,you are not going to tell with a mic,, you will just be wasting more time...It's a good thing this tractor is not pulling the planter....
 
it was supposed to be helping out too but got off easy this season for oats planting,it usually does the disking
 
ok tim I went to farm last night and first thing this morning at 6,i pulled the center pump out,and brought it home,all parts are in tolerance range,and also I was at jd yesterday and asked for orings for this pump,well I got them and a while ago I spotted the hole where oil is sucked in from the rear sump,but then again I spotted a smaller hole next to it,bad thing is that when I pulled the pump out 2 weksa ago,there was only one line running into pump,the big line,and now it looks like theres about a 1/2 inch line hole with an oring in the pimp too,so im thinking now I got a line that fell out of back of pump possibly,put it this way,only thing I did hook up when putting pump back in was the star hookup,,and the big line,no small line was seen when I pulled it out so I never hooked it up either,please tell me there is a line that goes in that small hole next to the big line,2 holes side by side with orings???and only 1 line in it?it don't add up,ttyl guys
 
(quoted from post at 22:09:48 10/30/14) ok tim I went to farm last night and first thing this morning at 6,i pulled the center pump out,and brought it home,all parts are in tolerance range,and also I was at jd yesterday and asked for orings for this pump,well I got them and a while ago I spotted the hole where oil is sucked in from the rear sump,but then again I spotted a smaller hole next to it,bad thing is that when I pulled the pump out 2 weksa ago,there was only one line running into pump,the big line,and now it looks like theres about a 1/2 inch line hole with an oring in the pimp too,so im thinking now I got a line that fell out of back of pump possibly,put it this way,only thing I did hook up when putting pump back in was the star hookup,,and the big line,no small line was seen when I pulled it out so I never hooked it up either,please tell me there is a line that goes in that small hole next to the big line,2 holes side by side with orings???and only 1 line in it?it don't add up,ttyl guys

The suction line to the scavenge transfer pump comes up from the famous screen in the front section and is help by a metal strap (I think the pump driveshaft also passes though that strap) and plugs into the back of the pump.

Is that line in place? Should be visible in the opening where the pump goes.

Apparently, the strap and line can also be viewed through the opening in the clutch housing exposed when the clutch regulating valve is removed.

That's what the shop manual says, anyway, it's been a LONG time since I've looked in there!
 
well I can see the big line that plugs in right,but theres no small line nowhere to be seen,theres 2 holes in back of the pump with orings in them,but only 1 pipe to plug in,im thinking one fell into the front sump where I missed it
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:43 11/01/14) well I can see the big line that plugs in right,but theres no small line nowhere to be seen,theres 2 holes in back of the pump with orings in them,but only 1 pipe to plug in,im thinking one fell into the front sump where I missed it


Can you post some clear photos of what you see in the "hole" where the pump goes, and of the back of the pump?
 
ok all lines are there I just wasn't low enough too see the smaller line I was looking for,put everything in ,and even new pump,and same problem,,is there something else letting oil not do its job in planetary area?everybody sid new pump so I did it and got the same trouble I started with pretty much,im thinking I got an o ring gone somewhere
 
Sorry to Resurect an old threadbut could you tell me where they hydralic screens are located on an 8630 ford tractor? I am having similar issues but wanted to start by cleaning the screens.
 
(quoted from post at 12:23:53 01/30/23) Sorry to Resurect an old threadbut could you tell me where they hydralic screens are located on an 8630 ford tractor? I am having similar issues but wanted to start by cleaning the screens.

Why not start your own post with FORD 8630 in the title??? You will get much better exposure that way to the folks that may have info to help you, instead of burying a Ford question at the end of a long dead John Deere post.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top