620 new to me. Few questions.

I found a 620 with farmhand loader and purchased it. It will be a big step up from a 1940 A with someone's homemade copy of a dual loader.

Questions.
1. The clutch engages OK, but doesn't seem to disengage. Can't shift while engine is on, can't seem to stop the belt pulley either.
2. Governor isn't erratic, but doesn't hold back the throttle either. Seems to idle alright if I choke it till it almost stalls??
3. Power steering only works when I turn right, doesn't seem to work at all when turning left.

Suggestions?? I have found that equipment that has sat for a long time sometimes isn't really "boken" just sticking, slipping, needs oil flow etc. Any thoughts (mainly on the governor and clutch, the steering is probably a leaking steering valve).
Thanks,

you need to buy farmalls.some dont need john deere.

Is the brake on the clutch pulley working?When you pull the clutch lever back it should come against the pulley to stop it.If you remove the nose there's a valve that can be adjusted for the steering.You loosen two bolts and tap it left or right to center the steering.

Are you sure its not 4 bolts????

Do you mean me? I have the A and a 70, these problems with the 620 are just new to me. The brake pulley pad is touching the pulley as it should. The clutch just doesn't seem to disengage. I adjusted the 3 bolts on the clutch in order to get it to drive at all. When I got it the clutch was so loose it wouldn't even snap in.
The governor seems to be working allright when I check things with the tractor off (all linkages basically the same as on the A and 70), but doesn't hold back the throttle when running. Must be something internal sticking or loose. Never had one apart before because I never needed to.

dmiller,

I had the same problem with one of my 70D's. The problem is caused by the pulley brake operating pin being worn. The pin is #32 on the graphic below. May need some shims as well, but the pin is where you should look first. Sorry the graphic will not load, just look at the pulley brake in the parts manual for your tractor.

there just seems to be alot more things to do or ck to john deere tractors than farmalls.Try ownning a 720 diesel pony start and keeping it all going. Just to start it and shut it down you have alot to remember,and remembering is harder after you reach 90

Try ajusting the pully brake tighter. Just because it touches the pulley doesn't mean it's ajusted right. With the engine idling and the clutch disengauged tighten the brake ajusting screw till the pulley just stops coasting.

All expensive, involved repairs. I hope it was Cheap & you don't need it for awhile.

It may be worth your while to disassemble the clutch and make sure there are no broken disks. You can do that with a Vise grips, while the "IH is simpler" guy is still looking for his tractor splitting stand...

As for the idling, you may need to have the carb cleaned out. If it has been sitting, you could have some crud in there.

The power steering is a matter of centering the valve. This is relatively simple, but best done with the proper manual. John Deere has one dedicated to 2-cylinder power steering units.

Good luck. We'll try to be of further assistance if needed.

Parts Manual PC_528(March 66) Serial# of TRACTOR should tell you if your CLUTCH lever assembly is either picture 1 or picture 2

dmiller,
Just finished a re-do on the clutch of my 630--quite similar to your 620, with some important exceptions in the pulley brake apparatus. As a former President famously said,"I feel your pain." I would start with a complete dis-assembly of the clutch and a good clean-up. Never know what you'll find in there. Mine was full of what appeared to be corn silage chop, as well as some severely worn and rusted parts. In addition to the parts list furnished by John Deere D, the repair manual would be a great help. Mine is down at my shop, but I'll try to remember to bring it home tomorrow and scan the appropriate pages for you. Meanwhile, I would start with checking to see if your crankshaft end-play is within specs (0.005 to 0.010). Do a Google or archives search for those terms--some good advice on how to do it, most likely by F.I.T., a former expert poster on this site. Unless something is badly broken, it need not be a terribly complicated or expensive repair. Just fiddling with the pulley brake probably won't get it done. Also, do a search on power steering adjustment (try the archives on this site or the Johnnypopper site). There is an extremely good post from several years ago with photos by another expert former poster by the handle of Clooney. It will show you how to do the adjustment.
Good luck.

May have to replace your dogs in the clutch to make it work, may as well get a new bearing and brass bushing. While you have the clutch off check the transmission fluid and if is over full replace the crank shaft seals. reduction cover will have to come off. 16+ hour job on and off.

Turned out you were the winning advice. I checked the pad and it wasn't putting pressure on the belt. Adjusted that and the clutch seems to work like on my 70 (worn and sloppy, but functional).

Good news all around. The more I mess with these "sat for years" projects I find that often there is a lot of wear, but nothing really broken. The steering seemed to get gradually better and fix itself after a few turns and a bit of driving. I adjusted the Belt Pulley brake a bit more and have a functional clutch. Messed around with the PTO engagement lever and discovered that it was just froze up/stuck and had a lot more movement than the one on my A and 70. Was able to push it about an 1 inch further than they go and now I have a PTO, nothing wrong at all previous owner just didn't know about that lever.
A bit of work on the fuel flow and a new ignition switch and I should be working it.
Thanks,