Starting problem 46 JD B

I was cutting corn stalks with a brush mower and the right plug
wire hooked on a corn stalk a killed the tractor. I put it back on
an can't get it started. There is no spark to either plug. All
wire to coil, plugs and ignition wire look good and all
connected. Haven't metered anything yet. Could the miss
firing have caused the coil to go out? Any other ideas?
 
If it has been changed to a distributor and the distributor converted to electronic ignition then yes it could have blown the ign. module. Otherwise replace condenser first.They go bad for no apparent reason.
 

If you are using an original Magneto Ignition, don't overlook the possibility there could be Moisture inside the Mag Cap...!!
While running the first few hours, moisture can accumulate in there and make starting a nightmare..
Even if there doesent "LOOK" like there is any in there, let the Sunshine dry it a while..
Cured our problems many, many times..

Ron..
 
No not coil. An electronic ignition uses an electronic "module" in the distributor in place of normal contact points. Look under dist cap and if you see breaker point set then you don't have elect. In that case replace condenser, they go bad at any time for any reason or for no reason and are cheap to replace. I had a customer with a 520 that almost bought a rebuilt carb ($400) and a new auto. fuel shut-off until I walked him through diagnosis and nailed it down to condenser ($9.00) and it run like a top again. They don't all act the same either. My e-mail is open.
 
If a condenser is a totally bad SHORT CIRCUIT there's no spark. If that's the case if it were removed it can then spark, although its a weaker spark, so if you don't have an ohm meter or tester to determine if a condenser is shorted out, just unhook it from the points and see if she sparks then. Typical problems are the points are burned or corroded or not gapped correct or not opening at all, so try that first. A points file can help or even dragging a dollar bill through them if only gray oxide coated may get her to fire again. See my Troubleshooting Procedure linked above for a detailed analysis.

John T
 
points were burnt out bad. I had a new set and replaced. Didin't have spark. Changed out condenser with a used one. Didn't have spark. Replace coil with new and didn't have spark. Took off uSed condenser and tried without. Still no spark. Where would you go from here? Cap and rotor ar a year and a half old.
 
Points were burnt out bad. I had a new set and replaced. Didn't get spark. Changed out condenser with a used one. Didn't have spark. Replace coil with new and didn't have spark. Took off uSed condenser and tried without. Still no spark. Where would you go from here? Cap and rotor ar a year and a half old.
 
With cap off and points open, check for voltage at the points arm, you should read full battery voltage there at that time. Use a screwdriver to short the points out, but don't do this across the contacts of the points, you can short from the points arm to the distributor floor plate that the points are bolted to. You should see a small spark when grounding the points arm with screwdriver and good fire at the coil wire when the short is removed if everything is working right.
 

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