Am I the only one that thinks the brakes are poorly located?

primerk5

Member
I'm about done my restoration, and I just climbed up on my tractor (48 model A) for the first time and sat on the seat yesterday. When I first got it running years ago I had the brake assemblies off of it because they were froze up, so I had no experience with them. I didn't use the pulley brake to stop it much since its not designed for that. Though the previous owner sure did. Resulting in a really worn belt pulley.

After getting up on the seat I realized that the brakes appear to be very uncomfortable to use. I ran a friends B a few weeks ago and had the same thought. His wasn't as bad as his doesn't have a battery box for a seat.

I'm not trying to start Deere bashing thread, I'm actually looking for some tips on using the brakes. I'm going to try to move the seat back a little further. When I use the brakes on my other tractors I normally put the heel of my foot on the floor plate and push on the pedal. That appears impossible with this tractor due to how far back they sit.
 

I suppose they might be for some people depending on how you are built. Deere had to design them so that a 4'6" kid or a 6'6" adult could operate them. Another thing Deere always promoted was how their tractors could be operated from a standing position, so that might have been a consideration also.
 
6' musta been the limit because I wouldn't say I have much problem with them. Of course, I also don't use the 60 for much more than hauling chicken feed from the feed room to the bulk bins.


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Must be a matter of taste. I've driven these tractors for over 45 years and get along fine with the brakes. I am 6'2" tall and have the seat most of the way back. No problems with the brakes. Mike
 
I'll agree. 6'1" and they're too far back. I usually use my toe against the lever to apply them. Locking and unlocking is worse. The brakes on my H are about the perfect spot.
 
I'm 6'2" also and I don't think they're a problem, but I grew up on two bangers. I will say I have always used the left brake more than the right, possibly because we lean forward to the right when we use the clutch. Jim
 

Since it is a Fresh restoration, you may have the brakes adjusted fairly tight, giving less than normal brake petal travel..
I know that I do not like mine adjusted up too far, but no complaints beyond that..

Ron.
 
(quoted from post at 20:13:28 10/07/14)
Since it is a Fresh restoration, you may have the brakes adjusted fairly tight, giving less than normal brake petal travel..
I know that I do not like mine adjusted up too far, but no complaints beyond that..

Ron.

I actually adjusted them up the night before last. I have about half pedal travel right now. I was thinking I could loosen them up some and that might make it better.
 
I never had a problem with any 2 cyl. brakes EXCEPT the 720 diesel with electric start ! That oversize battery box sure gets in the way of the pedals. If I was ever to take the brakes apart again I'd put 730 pedals on it.
Now back to the model A ? Wonder if the pedals are installed correctly onto the shafts ?
 

I'll have to get a picture tonight of it. I'm pretty sure they are. It seems to me it really could only go on one way to be remotely in a position that they would work.
 
Well since I'm 5'9" I've never had a issue
of your problem. My 620,60,A&B I like the
Brakes adjusted tight with Little free play.
Now Both of my counter parts on the farm have
there brakes adjustment VERY loose on their
60,530 630 & both 730's. They both are much
taller than me & I always have to slide the
seat ahead for me, & they move it all the back
for them. I've always considerd these as some of
the best brakes on older farm tractors. If they
are unconfortable for you I would back off your
adjustment & slide the seat frame back see if
it is better option for you. Those two long
legged guys just use their toe to brake
my tractors on the brake pedal arm, they never
put their foot where they are suppose to unless
they are locking the brakes.
 
I'm 6' and the pedals work out fine for me,, But the latches seem to have gotten farther away the last 10 years. It seems that years ago I saw a lever mechanism that was a handle to pick the latch up and let it swing into place,, I have been thinking about making some thing like that for mine and if I can make it work out sharing it with every one...I have even considered a hand brake , sorta like the old pick ups use to have,, hooked to a cross shaft under the front of the floor board to the pedals, putting the lever on the left side of the dash,,several ideas that I have been sorting through, and of course they would have to look right for the tractor..this idea could also be used as a hand brake and could be helpful to older operators... When I get closer on these ideas I will try to post some pictures..
 
On ALL of our 2 cylinder's I've installed
a stops off the floor board so the locking
swivel lever doesn't ride on the rear housing
& a person doesn't have to reach down as far
to flip to the locking position. On the 620
I use the section bar that had Broke. Cut them
off to where the 2 rivet holes were close At the
floor board side & use Mower rivets to install
in the floor board. Round end up. And it's a
must to R & R the board. A Machine screw would
work just as good. On the 1.25" or so that hangs
out to catch the lock. I put a little rubber
fuel door button off a Ford Car in the hole..
I've been asked before Never seen a stop like
that on a 620.. I just tell who ask's. they
were Optional... Leave it at that...

It keeps the paint on the rear housing, & as
everyone knows the l/h side get magnetized to
the rear housing battery cable & with the rubber
stop on my bracket its quiet & the paint
stay on the lock... My 2 cents.. An ole section
bar material works great!

I am 100% sure of all People Tim you could
create something far superior to my creation.
 
I was thinking in the same path as your idea to keep the latch from going clear down to the housing, that would help to keep from reaching a bit farther to grab it, your Idea is a clean one. When making changes I like to keep it looking right, even thou most would know it was not original. And as I think about this I'm looking at a customer 60 with a Behlem power steering, it just plain looks bad to me with the brackets bolting down to the dash panel, and it isn't working, I added some fluid to it and it Barfed back out,, I have never had one of these apart, the customer never mentioned it, the reason it's here is starter gear and water pump. Have any of you had one of these apart??
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I have found a VERY simple solution to help hold the latches up on the platforms.

Door panel clips from older cars used to be made from metal wire. These are a perfect clip on fit to the platform and hold up the latches. No modifications needed.
Reminds me I better go try and find my stash of these clips.
 
No Tim I have not. Both of our 60's have
Charlynn units on them.. I do believe the
Belhen is better unit, they work great, but I
wouldn't have that Flintstone mounting bracket
either. Neither of our leave's a mess like that.
 
As I'm drawing and making plans for my 60 4X4 I am thinking of a hydrostatic steer valve mounted under the hood where the pedisal is (doing away with the pedisal) this would be out of sight,, and having a steer cylinder down on the axle,, I'm still thinking about the hydraulic source,, maybe a pump behind the distributor..or a belt driven one off the fan shaft...Still doing a lot of thinking on it,,I was hoping to have it ready for Rantual...but a long way to go yet...
 
It is too bad this 60 didn't have the factory
P/S off the fan shaft. Or wouldn't that pump have
the needed flow? I personally am not fond of
adding power accessories to the fan shaft. They
do work ok, but I've had govener shaft failure
on the 60 with a belt driven pump. But these
tractors get used everyday.. The pumps gets warm
& create moisture when they cool down. The other
tractor power comes from the hydraulic system
& is trouble free. I think if you can create a
easy check & fill on a hidden reservoir that
holds more oil than you need , it would be
better & a cooler wouldn't hurt...
 

I don't believe your brake pedal position is
wrong. They will only install on the pedal
shaft in 4 different positions 25° off
would place it beyond the stops built into
the inner brake housing...
 
I'm coming off the differential shaft, dropping down and going to a shaft driven steer axle...
 
That's why I asked, I knew yours was driven
off the lower shaft, on a earlier post when
you had the pictures you stated this.

However I do know that if Tim say's he's going
to build it so drives off the diff. I'm sure
he has it figured out that it will work. I
think he has been blessed with a very creative
mind..
 
Maybe a bit of insanity, along with creativity.....But I was thinking the diff shaft to get me away from the flywheel, replacing the center shaft with a new splined shaft, cutting a key way in it and in the center of the differential so the new shaft would be steady driven and the rear diff could function on it's own.. and with all that in mind I will need to deal with the equation of shaft speeds,, I would be letting the shaft protrude through a new bearing quill, and using gears to drop down to a 90 degree gear box, the drop gears would give me a chance to match up my ratio's,,, may still end up going to the lower trans shaft to get more rpm's,,in the back of my mind I am thinking of Geoff's 730,,I am sure some "certified" Engineers put a lot of thought into that one... I am still trying to think this through on paper,,sorta like I did on the 60C,, my brother thought I needed a straight Jacket when Is was working the first part of that out..At least I know it's possible since Geoff's been running one for years....Stuff like this makes your mind work..
 
The brakes on the two cylinder tractors are not to bad to operate, except on the little H. They do not work well and you need arms about 6 feet long to reach the brake locks. Who ever though these up needs to be ran out of town tared and feathered.
 
I have never had problem finding a brake pedal on any of my Deere's when I needed it. I'm 6'3", and I don't think height is a factor. But I don't try to keep my heel on the platform, I just stomp on the pedal. As I get older, I do find the latches harder to reach to lock the brakes on. No problem unlatching them, except on my H. Those are very difficult to reach. When I bought the tractor 41 years ago they were easy to use. Maybe age has something to do with it!!
 
I thought that might be the reason why you
are thinking of going threw the l/h diff brg
quill.. But on the other hand your going to
really have to speed gear box output shaft up.

Unless I'm thinking wrong, cause I have no
clue how large of tires you plan to use on the
frt drive, I am assuming 9x24 , that's what
I am seeing in my mind, possibly smaller?
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:43 10/08/14) BTW we hi-jacked this mans topic.....LOL

Thats ok, We might need just change this the title of this thread to the 4wd 60 thread cause that will be much more entertaining to me anyways.
 
I don't know about that but when I moved my 60 this morning I sure had to reach hard to get the latch loose,, It almost feels like my arms got shorter...but I know it's the extra 20 pounds under my belt....Darn it...
 

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