4520 Oil cooler hose

Trying to find the p/n for the short hose that connects the top tube coming off the hyd. reservior to the "T" section in the return line. Looking in the parts book, the schematic is not the same as my tractor. Appears to be showing a later 45 and 46 models. Mine is an early one and the tube comes out the top of the reservoir and bends 90 degrees and runs toward the right side of the tractor.

The problem I'm having is the tube, which is 3/4" o.d.until it gets to the last 3-4 inches, bulges out to a larger diameter. This larger section has a small orface in the end it. I tried to get a section of 3/4 ID hyd hose to work over the end but no luck, the hose split. The hose would need to be slightly larger to go over it. I am not sure if the bulged out section is stock or someone added it. I could easily cut that secton out and just use a longer hose. I'm not sure if that will cause any problems by not having the orface. Does anyone know if removing that orface section would hurt anything?
 
Okay, so here are some photos to show what I am referring to

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Turns out the bulged out section of the pipe is a check valve. It measure .84" od in the thicker part, whereas the "T" that it connects to is .75 od. That's what is causing my delimma of finding the right hose. Anyone know if a check valve is even necessary? I don't recall the 4620 having a check valve and the tractors are nearly identical. Can I cut that section out?
 
Try this first..
Your reservoir pipe has no rib to help hold the hose but the tee has two.
Measure your reservoir pipe. Go to your dealer for the right size hose. Looks about the same size as ribs on tee. Two clamps on tee should work. Don't know where you got your hose but it shouldn't split. It just wouldn't go on. Oil the hose inside.
If that doesn't work cut off the pipe, buy AR49751 check valve tee ($58.23) and install it.
You could go to salvage yard and swap out everything.
 
Photos helping a lot, what I have done in the past is to take a dremel tool with cut off wheel mounted in it to hydraulic hose to barely cut thru just the steel braid lengthwise along the hose (a bit longer than the connection) in about four places around the diameter. This allows it to grow enough to get onto larger than normal sized pipes such as this one and then you just use two hose clamps on it to ensure it's not going to slide back off with moderate pressure. In no way then is the damaged hose able to contain full hydraulic pressure, but they would never have made the connection with a couple of hose clamps if this was truly a high pressure circuit in the first place. If you need a bit of help getting the hose to go over the large check valve with orifice, apply some RTV silicone to the metal and a small finger wipe of it on the inside of the rubber hose. Uncured RTV is about the slickest stuff out there, but you want a minimum inside the hose when done, as little as possible.

Sorry I have no info on if it needs the check valve or orifice - I would try to leave them in place first, the above RTV and quartered braid techniques will solve your problem, hopefully.
 
I was able to get it. Just wasn't sure what the diameter of the hose needed to be. My parts guy reaffirmed that it should be 3/4". I slicked up the tube with some lucas oil and heated the end of the hose with my heat gun and wrestled it on there.
 

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