620 questions

620rookie

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I grew up on an 8n Ford, and have owned a Ford 1801 industrial for 20 years, but for at least 10 years, I've wanted a 2cyl JD. Last week I finally managed to buy one. The previous owner bought it out of a collection in TN, and owned it for 3 yrs. The last time he drove it was in the 2013 Christmas parade(not really parade quality). He pulled it out in the weather and put it up for sale 3 mos ago, and listed it as "needs starter work".
The tractor runs pretty well when you pull it off. I got it home and yesterday I removed the flywheel cover to asses the starter problem. As I loosened the bolts on the bottom of the cover, water ran out. Once I got the cover off, I could see that water had been standing inside, probably high enough to flow over the shroud on the nose of the starter. That was late last night. I'm about to go back to the barn and remove the starter, and I am wondering what to do to assess the damage. Should I just take it to a rebuilder?
Also, I noticed right away when I test drove the tractor that the power steering doesn't work. I think this is due to the hydraulic pump not being engaged. The pump is in the left, just forward of the brake pedal, and has a lever switch on it labelled 'on' and 'off' on opposing ends, but I see no reference mark. How do I engage it? Should the tractor be running, or does it matter?
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
DO NOT engage the hyd. pump or the PTO lever down by your right foot on the floor board with the engine running. It must be shut off !
The power steering has it's own pump and it runs all the time if the engine runs.
 
OK, thanks. Do I have to remove the hood to work on the power steering pump? Where do you check the fluid? I know a manual would answer a lot of my questions, and I hope to purchase one at our club's annual show in Oct. Also, how do I know what position the switch lever is in... what is the reference point?
 
There's a "knockout" plug in the top front of your hood. Pry that out and you'll see what looks like a long bolt head that about 3/4" wrench will fit. That's your power steering reservoir dipstick. I think you unscrew it, then insert it to the threads (without screwing it in) to check the oil level. Type of oil in the PS opens up a can of worms, but it is generally agreed that genuine John Deere PS oil won't hurt anything but your pocketbook.

There's a dimple in the bottom flange of your flywheel cover that serves as a drain. Must have had crud clogging it. Good luck on the starter.
 
It's been years since I messed with a hyd. pump on & off lever. I think when it is where you can read the word ON Is this straight up ? I can't see it in my mind right now.
I pull the hyd. lever or rockshaft lever and listen for any hyd. noise or action. If not go the other way.
 
On the hydraulic pump - if the "switch" is engaged, the three point will work, or the remote lever will squeal the relief valve. I never can remember which way it turns - mine is always on except for severe cold starts. As already said - switch it only when the engine is off.
 
Yep, found the drain, and it was plugged with decades of pooh. Reckon that means no one has had to remove it for a long time, probably stored under roof till just before I bought it. Got the starter out, it's wet and nasty all around, so I'm going to the rebuilder now. Hopefully just a good cleaning, brushes, and a switch. Thanks much!
 
I use only JD OIL in the power steering JD# AF2235R. Buy your self JD MANUAL PARTS CATALOG NO. PC-528.Replace PART # AR 11115R (CONTACTOR SWITCH on top of starter)as to remove the starter is a true test of your patience. I&T SERVICE MANUAL NO.JD-16 is pretty good. Dismantle the starter, clean thoroughly with electrical clean, use an air nozzle to clean, assemble starter, then connect to a battery and test for operation before installing on Tractor. Buy your self SERVICE MANUAL ELECRICAL SYSTEMS # SM-2029
Starter Part #Delco-Remy 1113041. Use only SPARK PLUGS with NO internal RESISTOR.
 
Bad news. Rebuilder says armature in my starter is shot, so replacing that will put the rebuild price at $400. Does anyone know of a better option?
 
NEW PARIS TRACTOR PARTS 1-844-214-394McGrew Tractor Parts 1-866-521-9515 or 1-574-831-5800
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Last time I replaced an armature the armature alone was in the $120 range. An automotive electrical supply in Sioux City had one for me. I'd say go ahead and have the rebuilder finish it up right with a new armature.

The only thing original on my 630 starter is the main frame, fields and end cap. I just keep rebuilding it when the need arises. Seems like it was every ten years or so when it was used practically every day as a loader tractor.
 
Power steering pump is always on. Hydraulic pump is on left side. On is when the ON is on top and readable. Off is the opposite. PTO switch is similar but on the right side.

Hopefully your power steering problem is simple as they can be really involved to work on.
 
Yes, you will have to remove the hood to work
on the power steering pump, but I would highly
recommend getting the factory power steering
manual as soon as possible. For the moment, I
would just pop out the knock out plug which is
a few inches from the radiator cap and fill the
system with John Deere 2 cyl. P.S. fluid per
the dipstick. Once you know you have fluid in
the reservoir, then you can start observing
whether you might have an obvious leak, which
can be in the pump, on one of the two lines, or the
"pedestal" which is just forward of the
radiator and will require removal of the front
cap to do much assessment. Good luck and get
that JD power steering manual, they have them
for about 25 bucks at Davenport Tractor. Hugh
 
" The Parts Depot " has one NOS one left . Pt # 1935259 and it is listed onder IH so a IH dealer will have to get it for you. I needed two of these and they still had 2 under JD at that time so I bought both . That was last year and I think they were about $60 each . Nice new Delco in original tubes . IH and JD have lots of common Delco parts like this . Another option is just buy another starter . Yes the parts jockeys want blood for stuff like that but I have bought them for anything from $50 to $200 . Patience required on that sometimes . I probably have extra ones . Does yours still have it's red Delco tag ? Dave
 
Thanks for the info, Dave. Since my last post, my rebuilder called to say he had located an armature in TX, and could rebuild my starter with this armature for a total $300. I said yes. I'm trying to get ready for a pull sponsored by my engine club on Oct 4, so I will have something to compare to as I upgrade my tractor this winter and start pulling in the spring. Aside from the new starter, fresh plugs/wires, and an oil change, it will be totally stock.
I may go ahead and order the armature you put me onto just to have it. Thanks so much. I just love to hear the old girl run.
 
Thanks, Hugh. Since I posted last, I went to the nearest JD dealer and bought some JD PS fluid. I asked the counter guy about how to check the level, and he opened a service manual on his computer and showed me where to remove the cap on the hood by the radiator to check the level, only my tractor has no such cap. Upon further investigation, we discovered another paragraph that stated that power steering on some row-crop models does in fact operate off the hydraulic system pump. As my pump was not in gear the only time i've had it running since I bought it, I believe that's the case with my power steering. As soon as I get my repaired starter back, I hope to verify this. The manual I was shown explained that the lever on the hydraulic pump is engaged when rotated counterclockwise. I will make sure to position it so before I crank my new prize next time, and hopefully the power steering will work. Thanks again for you help.
 
That's interesting about the hyd pump running the PS on some row crop tractors. I thought it was only on the orchards. The orchards had a bigger hyd pump to handle the extra requirements of the power steering. Yours might possibly have that bigger pump. Jim
 

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