Regarding the 3010 Air Cleaner Blowing oil, here are some pictures of the plugs, they all looked about the same, very sooty.
Also, I removed the valve cover, no broken springs. I was able to pass a 0.100 drill bit through the #2 intake valve gap. The gaps on all the other intake and exhaust valves were the same to slightly smaller. Spec, is 0.015" Intake and 0.028" exhaust. I reset gaps to spec. and re-ran the compression test.
#4 111, 119, 120 lbs, Yesterday was 155 lbs. before the regap.
#3 143 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.
#2 125 lbs, Yesterday was 125 lbs.
#1 149 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.
I ran #4 three times because it changed so much. I also rechecked my gaping. I don't know why the big change as compared to the lesser changes in the others. #2 did not improve.
At this point I plan to move on calling the compressions good unless I learn something else. I started down this path trying to explain the oil blown out of the intake of the oil bath air cleaner. I am more convinced it is due to the backfire or more accurately afterfire. I had cleaned this air cleaner on the outside and replaced the oil mid last summer so again it surprised me how dirty it was a year later after little running, just raking hay this summer.
Oh, I also tested the valve rotators, I put white paint on the left side of the valve tip just before I ran todays compression test. The exhaust valves all showed rotation, none of the intake valves rotated. I need to look at the parts book yet but I assume the intake valves do not have rotators. I am told some tractors are this way. The picture is from the left side of the tractor, E3-I3-I4-E4 left to right. Note the white paint did not move on I3 and I4.
Also I checked voltage drop between the battery and starter when cranking, 0.2 volts. I am told this is good.
Next I will replace the plugs, points, rotor, and maybe wires. I will also replace the lift pump and add an inline filter after the pump.
I have yet to find the coil resistor but I found a reference that leads me to believe I will find it at the key switch - tomorrow.
The owner also wants a working temperature gauge, and a wide front end added to this tractor. I refurbished a Schwartz Front end for it.
Oh, then there is the matter of getting the corn out of the fuel tank.
I would appreciate any comments/suggestions. And thanks for all the comments so far.
Paul
Also, I removed the valve cover, no broken springs. I was able to pass a 0.100 drill bit through the #2 intake valve gap. The gaps on all the other intake and exhaust valves were the same to slightly smaller. Spec, is 0.015" Intake and 0.028" exhaust. I reset gaps to spec. and re-ran the compression test.
#4 111, 119, 120 lbs, Yesterday was 155 lbs. before the regap.
#3 143 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.
#2 125 lbs, Yesterday was 125 lbs.
#1 149 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.
I ran #4 three times because it changed so much. I also rechecked my gaping. I don't know why the big change as compared to the lesser changes in the others. #2 did not improve.
At this point I plan to move on calling the compressions good unless I learn something else. I started down this path trying to explain the oil blown out of the intake of the oil bath air cleaner. I am more convinced it is due to the backfire or more accurately afterfire. I had cleaned this air cleaner on the outside and replaced the oil mid last summer so again it surprised me how dirty it was a year later after little running, just raking hay this summer.
Oh, I also tested the valve rotators, I put white paint on the left side of the valve tip just before I ran todays compression test. The exhaust valves all showed rotation, none of the intake valves rotated. I need to look at the parts book yet but I assume the intake valves do not have rotators. I am told some tractors are this way. The picture is from the left side of the tractor, E3-I3-I4-E4 left to right. Note the white paint did not move on I3 and I4.
Also I checked voltage drop between the battery and starter when cranking, 0.2 volts. I am told this is good.
Next I will replace the plugs, points, rotor, and maybe wires. I will also replace the lift pump and add an inline filter after the pump.
I have yet to find the coil resistor but I found a reference that leads me to believe I will find it at the key switch - tomorrow.
The owner also wants a working temperature gauge, and a wide front end added to this tractor. I refurbished a Schwartz Front end for it.
Oh, then there is the matter of getting the corn out of the fuel tank.
I would appreciate any comments/suggestions. And thanks for all the comments so far.
Paul