Air Cleaner Blowing Oil - Update

Regarding the 3010 Air Cleaner Blowing oil, here are some pictures of the plugs, they all looked about the same, very sooty.

Also, I removed the valve cover, no broken springs. I was able to pass a 0.100 drill bit through the #2 intake valve gap. The gaps on all the other intake and exhaust valves were the same to slightly smaller. Spec, is 0.015" Intake and 0.028" exhaust. I reset gaps to spec. and re-ran the compression test.

#4 111, 119, 120 lbs, Yesterday was 155 lbs. before the regap.

#3 143 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.

#2 125 lbs, Yesterday was 125 lbs.

#1 149 lbs, Yesterday was 140 lbs.

I ran #4 three times because it changed so much. I also rechecked my gaping. I don't know why the big change as compared to the lesser changes in the others. #2 did not improve.

At this point I plan to move on calling the compressions good unless I learn something else. I started down this path trying to explain the oil blown out of the intake of the oil bath air cleaner. I am more convinced it is due to the backfire or more accurately afterfire. I had cleaned this air cleaner on the outside and replaced the oil mid last summer so again it surprised me how dirty it was a year later after little running, just raking hay this summer.

Oh, I also tested the valve rotators, I put white paint on the left side of the valve tip just before I ran todays compression test. The exhaust valves all showed rotation, none of the intake valves rotated. I need to look at the parts book yet but I assume the intake valves do not have rotators. I am told some tractors are this way. The picture is from the left side of the tractor, E3-I3-I4-E4 left to right. Note the white paint did not move on I3 and I4.

Also I checked voltage drop between the battery and starter when cranking, 0.2 volts. I am told this is good.

Next I will replace the plugs, points, rotor, and maybe wires. I will also replace the lift pump and add an inline filter after the pump.

I have yet to find the coil resistor but I found a reference that leads me to believe I will find it at the key switch - tomorrow.

The owner also wants a working temperature gauge, and a wide front end added to this tractor. I refurbished a Schwartz Front end for it.

Oh, then there is the matter of getting the corn out of the fuel tank.


I would appreciate any comments/suggestions. And thanks for all the comments so far.
Paul

Essentially ALL the valves had around .100 clearance? YIKES! This could have been just misadjusted by a total loon, but I would keep my eyes on the valves as they operate watching for substandard lift and operation just the same.

Adjustment screw height odd balls need to be double checked, E3 in your photo shows one with a few more threads exposed than the others. Making it a prime candidate for being adjusted way too loose some how, some way. Those with screws all the way in might have worn off cam lobes. They would have been pretty much all the same height from the factory so noting this particular aspect can be a real trouble saver sometimes. With the crazy clearance issue looming over this project with added odd ball operational characteristics stated, I would also check the lift on each valve using a straight edge across the top of other valves and measure down from that. Intakes should all be similar to each other as well as exhausts. The fast way to check valve clearances is to pinch the rocker arm with thumb and finger and work the devil out of it. Listen to the clatter it makes and compare that to the noise of the next one. You can learn to discern very closely which ones really need adjustment and which ones are pretty darn close to right.

Most rotator equipped engines only had them on the exhaust as these are the ones most likely to start burning.

Sooty plugs not telling us anything new since the carb was found to be out of control dripping fuel, one could expect a bit of soot.

Corn needs to be done outside with a section of clear anhydrous hose otherwise known around here as an Oklahoma credit card.

Sounds to me the cam is wiped out. Modern oil with NO ZINC, excessive idling, running rich causing oil that's diluted with gas can all destroy a cam.

Thanks for the responses. I will look at E3 further. I will also check the service manual to see if it gives a spec. on length of stroke on the valves due to the cam and see if I can determine wear. Thanks again. Great observations. Paul