Mechanical vs Electronic Ignitions

2510Paul

Well-known Member
I need to put all new points, etc., in a JD 3010. Would it be worth my while and expense to put an Electronic Ignition in it? In Electronic Ignitions are there any adjustments needed, e.g. timing? I have no experience with these. Comments? Paul
 
I have used one of the pertronix(possibly spelled wrong) and had much better engine performance especially starting. It does say to run a bigger spark plug gap. Also to not leave key on, engine off, as it could burn up the unit or coil. Hope this helps.
 
The basic Pertronix units are a magnetically-triggered electronic switch that replaces the breaker points.

You get no more spark than from a good new set of breaker points (and actually a bit less because of a .6 Volt voltage drop across the unit's transistor/electronic switch).

On the the other hand (in THEORY) they never wear out, and they are more forgiving of distributor shaft/bushing wear issues that cause uneven timing between cylinders than are breaker points.
 
All of my old tractors that don't have a magneto use the Pertronix ignition. I've only had one go bad over the years. I've had others leave the key on and melt a few but that was no fault of the product. It's pretty nice to never have to clean corroded/burned points. The only downfall I have seen with the EI is that the tractor will not start if battery voltage is low. Even if the starter motor is still able to crank sometimes there isn't enough voltage to operate the ignitor module.
 
Its your money and your choice, some people choose an EI while others choose conventional points and have strong opinions one way or the other, so I will just toss out a few pros and cons. A set of conventional mechanical contact points opening (on high cam lobe) and closing (off cam lobe) is used to switch the coil current on and off versus a solid state device which does the same thing electronically in an EI.

Advantages of conventional points are if they burn its possible to file them good enough to get back to the barn while if a EI fails you're pretty well screwed,,,,,,,,,,Points are much cheaper then an EI although if the EI keeps working its cost will be less then several sets of points over time.

An advantage of an electronic switch (if still working) is it provides fast more positive current switching then do bouncing ringing continually burning (developing resistance) points,,,,,,,,,,,,,,No worry with bad or failing condensors,,,,,,,,,,,,Little to no degradation over time versus mechanical points that over time develop carbon and burning and pitting and resistance,,,,,,,,,,No adjusting (gap) required like when points wear.

If the points are new and shiny and clean and adjusted correct, the spark energy discharged across the plugs gap when it fires will be near the same as if an EI is used, however as the points burn and pit and carbon and develop resistance over time, performance suffers versus an EI which pretty much stays the same over time (if still working) as there are no mechanical switching components to develop resistance.

HOWEVER heres another issue: If you continue to use a conventional coil the spark energy with points or the switch is initially about the same subject to the above. HOWEVER with an EI its possible to switch more coil current (with points its limited to around 4 amps or so) and to use a higher energy higher voltage coil and run a wider plug gap to get a higher energy spark (which can improve performance) then you get with the conventional system. In other words to get the most bang for the buck an EI has to offer, you would match it with a higher energy higher voltage after market coil and run a wider plug gap. It still works fine with the conventional stock coil, its just that an EI typically has the capacity to handle more coil current and the capacity to handle a high energy high voltage coil in which case you can use a wider plug gap and get a higher energy spark (if after market coil is used).

Most people report improved starting and idling with an EI. All the above gets more important if you modify your tractor giving her more compression and heavy duty use but for conventional or light duty and a stock coil, other then not having to buy more points as they burn, the EI doesnt improve performance all that much.

TIMING Yes the distributor still needs to be timed Well DUH, HOWEVER the timing remains pretty well consistent with an EI versus with points which changes over time as the points rubbing block and the points themselves wear. IE with an EI you can pretty much time it initially and it doesnt change as much as with points

The automotive industry went to EI years ago for good reasons and that same technology obviously applies to old tractors, but one problem is the after market EI doesnt seem to be near the same quality as found in modern autos.

I report, now you decide, its your money and your tractor and your choice despite people who may have different opinions or experiences one way or the other. The above are simply electrical realities and theory and true to the best of my current knowledge.

John T
 
John spelled it out pretty good. I will add that when installing the Pertronix ignition and coil you should install resistor plug wires as solid wires can damage the module. My Dad has a 3020 that we were replacing points, condensors, and plugs several times a year. Installed electronic ignition 20 years ago and have only changed plugs twice since then. The tractor starts and runs better, especially in colder weather.
 
The electronic switch provides a sharper current shut off than the points do as they arc open.
The electronic unit will make an ordinary every day NAPA ignition coil into a powerhouse .
The primary advantage is no moving electrical parts and no corrosion .
Your 2500rpm four cylinder Deere . It's not a turbo V8 running 15psi boost at 6500rpm.
As previously stated. The pertronix unit requires resistor wires but spiral wound suppression wires are much preferred.
In any case run 3116, 216 or 437 as per what fits in Autolite plugs.
If the coolant temp isn't 195F . She is going to be much more prone to foul plugs.
 
Pertronix does NOT require suppression wires.
Pertronix does not suggest that such is true, and
neither do the folks that sell them. They work
well with original metal core wires. I've never
used anything other than original wiring
equipment and have lots of hours logged on
tractors with Pertronix ignitors.

If you are going to preach something then preach
the necessity of using the correct coil with the
igntitor and the importance of using a chassis
ground on all these one wire alternator
conversions that have voltage spikes that are off
the charts.
 
Thanks everyone for your responses. As noted there are pros and cons. Right now I am leaning to staying with the points and fixing a bunch of other items first. Thanks again. Paul
 
There's NO question that EI can be a GREAT thing, but the conversion units often discussed here (who's name I will not mention) are a far cry from the reliability and "HOTTNESS" of spark we have become accustomed to from modern factory EI's, HEI's, CD ignitions, etc..

(BTW, I have installed MANY of them and have several on vehicles/equipment I own and am NOT against using them, only pointing out some facts from experience.)

They DO ocassionaly fail, and when they do, you are "dead in the water"... There's not even ONE more start, and running long enough to make it to the end of the field or home, after filing points, or any other quick fixes.

You are "dead in that water" 'til you get a replacement unit, or pop in a set of points.

And the trouble is, many of the units for old tractors, etc. have to be spacial-ordered, and you have to WAIT overnight, or likely, several days, for a replacement to arrive. for a replacement to arrive.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top