Loose Neutral Start Switch Connector

My 2130 has always had intermittent starting issues. Early on I accidentally discovered that I could get it to start by wiggling a large wire that ran under the plate over the transmission just to the left of the range shift lever. I removed the plate and noticed that the connector to the neutral start switch was loose. Since that did not seem to be a safety problem, and I could always get it to start, I decided to put the repair on the back burner. But recently I have been on a mission to try to eliminate some of these charming little quirks, and today I removed the plate again. The video in the link shows how the connector on the switch moves when I wiggle the wire. It seems excessively loose to me, and it came off very easily without any discernible click or snap. The image shows the connector removed. The switch has two T-shaped pins, and the connector seems to slide over the top of the T. The connector is shown upside down, and it looks like the T (blue arrow) on the connector could fit into either the top (yellow arrow) or bottom (white arrow). I tried it both ways, and it seemed to fit mush tighter one way than the other. I left it that way. The wiggling is much less pronounced, and it seems to be working consistently now.

But this still doesn't seem right to me. Shouldn't the connector make a much more positive contact? The start switch looks the same as images I have found, but I cannot find any images of the connector to compare to see if my connector is even the correct one.

Video showing loose connector.

Charles, the terminals on the switch appear to be fine.

The terminals in the connector body need help.

They can be released from the connector and replaced, if you are into that sort of thing, and a knowledgeable partsman can help you with that.


Otherwise, replace the harness or splice in a repair harness.

It's the correct one, it's just been bent out of shape by years of use, that wire needs to nailed down with a grommetted strap fairly close to that terminal so it can't move around like that so easily. Homemade out of plumbers strapping or store bought doesn't matter, seems to be a nice small bolt head handy too. Make it fairly tight so it doesn't wiggle as the tractor rolls over bumps. The small part of the switch pins are supposed to go into the two slots fully so you are actually putting it on the wrong way now. It's probably been bent to where it can't be made to work right by foreign objects riding around on top of it bending the copper wire end terminals. These terminals can be removed from the black plastic housing by operating the keeper tang found on the opposite side of the contact proper and withdrawing the copper terminal piece crimped onto the wire. Bend it all up right again including the copper tang that holds it in the black plastic piece and reinsert for many more years until it happens again.

The smallest possible screwdriver you got then goes in where the yellow arrow is to allow the tang to release the copper wire end. Alternately you need a flat thin strip of stiff metal that will operate the tang deep within the plastic part. Doubled roof flashing comes to mind. The tang will be deep in the center and some only turn loose while the release tool is in place that holds the tang away from the notch in the plastic keeping it in there. Often helps to push the wire into the plastic at the same time, then push on the inserted release tool and then hopefully the wire just comes out where you can insert screwdrivers sideways under the copper blade to bend out the flat contact area such that it presses well and good onto the top of the pins of the switch again. This action also keeps the connector on the pins as they have a relief in the plastic for this purpose. A hail screen shield constructed over this part might keep out clods, tools, crop residue, etc from the area and allow the part to have a good long life, the second time around? WD40 will act as electrical contact cleaner to help complete this circuit if/when you have further troubles. Wish I could do such camera work - nice touch.

Here's a new pigtail(parts key 5) from JD RE14069 Wiring Harness - HARNESS, WIRING ADD 14.45 USD

(quoted from post at 12:20:36 09/19/14)
Here's a new pigtail(parts key 5) from JD RE14069 Wiring Harness - HARNESS, WIRING ADD 14.45 USD

Click to expand...

Thanks. That looks like what I need to do. BTW. The whole harness going to the switch on my machine doesn't look right to me. I had found an image you had posted in response to a similar issue.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...rting-issue-help-re031157_______un01nov99-gif.
Can you point me to a location that gives the labels of your figure? I have spend a fair amount of time on the jdpc online parts WEB site, but have not been able to find a labelled image of the harness.
EDIT: Oops. I think I linked to the wrong image. It looks like this might be a harness going to the solenoid instead of the neutral switch.

My wiring harness passes under the transmission cover with no grommet or attachment at all.
http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/...000w_20140918_154652_labelled_zpsf002500c.jpg
In fact, that is how I originally discovered what the problem was the first time it would not start: I just accidentally touched the wire where it ran under the cover, and all of a sudden it started right up.

(quoted from post at 04:57:47 09/19/14)
It's the correct one [......] Wish I could do such camera work - nice touch.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I wish I had you here to guide me through it. I'm going to print it out and give it a try. But I might just wind up following Tx Jim's suggestion and getting the replacement switch. As for the camera work, the reason I got my particular cell phone (A Samsung Galaxy S2) was that I saw that some pictures a fellow posted several years ago on the Purple Martin forum were better than what I was getting with my 35 mm SLR camera, and learned he was just using his cell phone camera. BTW, the video I originally put on PhotoBucket sometimes doesn't play well. Here is the same video on YouTube http://youtu.be/lXssUwhk4qY

Charles
This parts photo is for the optional starter relay wiring to give extra amps/voltage to the original starter solenoid.

Your welcome, thanks for the camera model info. I was able to latch onto the video file and download it where it plays perfectly in vlc off my hard drive, so it's the site's player's problem and possibly the site's servers can't keep up as well.

Replacement switch is not the problem though, what you need is item # 5 which is just the pigtail with new connector for $15. You'll have to splice that in to your harness as well. You can easily rebuild what you got better than new, I wouldn't bother going to town for parts myself. I would strap that harness down as it's too easily moved and these type of connectors are NOT meant for any kind of regular jostling. Gob 'O silicone on top of nearby small bolt head and harness held in it to cure by the weight of a sizable crescent wrench overnight more than adequate for alternate strapping methods around here.

And the solenoid booster is only needed when this connector and switch in good working order are still not enough to reliably drop the hammer on the starter as well. It sounds like you don't need it to begin with is what I'm trying to get across. But always welcome information to have when you do need it - thanks Tx Jim.

(quoted from post at 05:22:21 09/20/14)

And the solenoid booster is only needed when this connector and switch in good working order are still not enough to reliably drop the hammer on the starter as well. It sounds like you don't need it to begin with is what I'm trying to get across. But always welcome information to have when you do need it - thanks Tx Jim.

Click to expand...

I agree but they're 3 easy things that can really help a hard starting JD utility tractor.

Relocating battery ground cable from batt box to engine starter mounting bolt.
Installing a hyd pump destroking screw
Installing a starter relay switch that isn't real expensive which eliminates voltage drops to original starter solenoid.
RE164448 Starter Relay - RELAY, STARTING ADD 25.37 USD

Sufficient amperage can be lost though existing ing switch,neutral start switch and original wiring harness to lessen starter performance.

(quoted from post at 10:22:21 09/20/14)
[...] what you need is item # 5 which is just the pigtail with new connector for $15. You'll have to splice that in to your harness as well.
[...]
But always welcome information to have when you do need it - thanks Tx Jim.

Click to expand...

I did order the pigtail, and I'll follow your suggestion for tying the harness down. But I'm still curious about how it was originally. Surely the harness did not originally pass under the plate with no protection and go to the switch with no restraint. When I found the image Tx Jim had posted on another thread, l first thought it was illustrating this harness. Only later did I notice the solenoid and starter at the bottom.

I got to wondering last night how many people have solved this problem by just bypassing the switch, which prompted me to Google "accident starting tractor from ground." I spent the last two hours reading some of the resulting articles on tractor safety. Time well spent.

I keep those new pig tails ,neutral safety switches and relays here on hand, I always make sure the neutral safety switches are in working order on all tractors that I work on here before they leave, there could be a liability issue,,but I would hate to have some one get hurt because they were not working.. I get the pig tails from my Kimball Midwest suppler, a couple bucks could save a lot of grief, or barn repair..I know of a guy that had a 4440 start when he wasn't ready for it,, broke his ankle and ran out through the side of the barn...

(quoted from post at 04:29:59 09/20/14)

(quoted from post at 05:22:21 09/20/14)

And the solenoid booster is only needed when this connector and switch in good working order are still not enough to reliably drop the hammer on the starter as well. It sounds like you don't need it to begin with is what I'm trying to get across. But always welcome information to have when you do need it - thanks Tx Jim.

Click to expand...

I agree but they're 3 easy things that can really help a hard starting JD utility tractor.

Relocating battery ground cable from batt box to engine starter mounting bolt.
Installing a hyd pump destroking screw
Installing a starter relay switch that isn't real expensive which eliminates voltage drops to original starter solenoid.
RE164448 Starter Relay - RELAY, STARTING ADD 25.37 USD

Sufficient amperage can be lost though existing ing switch,neutral start switch and original wiring harness to lessen starter performance.

Click to expand...

I am having issues starting a JD 2240, and searched for posts describing similar problems.

I checked the battery and is fine: 98% charged and 89% life.

I can no longer starting the tractor with the key. I have to use the screwdriver at the starting motor - I am very careful but I know it is dangerous and I do not like this.

I am about to start investigating the relays and everything else.

Currently the battery ground is going to one of the bolts that are holding the transmission cover.

I have few questions related to your three suggestions above:

1. Where is the engine starter mounting bolt? Do I need a longer cable for this?
2. Can you please elaborate on :
2a. Installing a hyd pump destroking screw
and
2b. Installing a starter relay switch that isn't real expensive which eliminates voltage drops to original starter solenoid.

Thank you,
Paul

cizmas
Yes you will need a longer negative battery cable to attach opposite end of cable from battery to engine block or under bolt head of """"bolt that holds starter securely to flywheel housing on the rear of engine"""".

Destroking screw fits in LH front of hyd pump allowing one to turn the screw CW to stop hyd pump from pumping oil decreasing load on starter. I need to know which hyd pump your tractor has to list correct DS screw part #s

Starter relay kit puts a more direct,higher amperage on starter engagement(exciter) wire. Look at photo I previously posted on Sept.19,2014 for better explanation.

Jim:

Thank you! I have a JD 2240 (350000-) version. I looked on the parts catalog and found that the hydraulic pump is model CA1 23 CM3 (1.38 IN.3).

I also looked in the Technical Manual 2040 and 2240 Tractor TM1221 (01NOV80) and only see one option for the hydraulic pump.

Is there a way to double check this on the tractor?

Thank you,
Paul

Manual destroking screw kit subs to the part #s shown below