4010 SCVs Need to be Overhauled

61-4010

Member
1961 4010 and the SCVs need to be overhauled and adjusted. I know I can buy the parts but don"t have the tools for doing it the right way. Local JD Dealer wants $400-$600 each (upwards of a $1200 note) to rebuild both of them. Seems perhaps a little steep but then again, I need assurance they are done right since I use the valves a lot for implements.

Any suggestions other than the local JD dealer to perform this work?
 
Contact Tim S on this site. I shipped my valves from a 4440 to him and they are rebuilt better than new now. He is the guy to do it!!
 
I would do them as well but the bridge (read International Border) is a problem. Like the other poster said send them to Tim S, he's probably done a few......thousand of them.
 
4010 and early 4020 valves are a different animal,,,they are not easy to deal with,, I would get one from a salvage yard,,, they newer valves are much more successful to rebuild...
 
Thanks for the replies. I assume that a newer model (perhaps SCVs from a later 4020) will work fully with a 4010 from "61.

Will look around for a new version to see how much those plus a rebuild is going to cost. May be less expensive to just get Deere to rebuild the existing ones.
 
Here's few places you can get the 4020 dual valve kit PN's AR41023 & AR41039
mvphoto10850.jpg
 

I just had a thought if this 4010 was a using tractor & not a restore model I'd disconnect the factory SCV's and install a JS valve plumbed similar to FEL control valve on the RH side of the seat routing hoses back to the original breakaway couplers or ISO couplers. I always thought JD engineers made the steering & SCV valves WAY TOO COMPLICATED.
mvphoto10851.jpg
 
This is the SCV itself...above the starter behind the valve cover that the control levers connect to.
 
(quoted from post at 14:53:16 09/09/14) This is the SCV itself...above the starter behind the valve cover that the control levers connect to.

That look similar to this photo. As I stated JD engineers made them TOO COMPLICATED
mvphoto10854.gif
 
Rebuilding a newer style SCV can cost you just as much to rebuild as an early one. The only special tool you may really need are the stones to regrind the seats, and that's only if they're really beat up. Remember, this is 50+ year old technology. You can do it if you take your time.
 
Not many people rebuild those valves. Most dealers people are too young.
Check with Abilene or maybe Worthington. One of them have them rebuilt ready to ship.
Still you can get a bad one occasionaly but they should replace them.
 
Tim S and the others can chime in on this as to the validity but I was told that the 10 series valves have cast iron spools that are prone to pitting. If the spools have serious damage it may be better getting 20 series valves which use stainless steel spools. Not cheap but they may hold up better if this tractor is an everyday work tractor.
 
Selective control valves don't use spool valves, they use poppet valves to control the flow of oil. There were 3 generations of SCVs. The 10- and early 20-series valves were mounted under the hood. The late 20-series and early 30-series were mounted on the rockshaft housing and had a hump in the casting on the top of the valve housing. The late 30-series, 40-, 50-, 55-, and 60-series were mounted on the rockshaft and the valve housing was smooth on top. All three generations worked basically the same, 2 valves per outlet- 1 pressure, 1 return. The valves themselves are the big difference. The first style SCV used a pin to unseat a steel ball before it opened the poppet. The second style originally had a 2-piece valve, which is no longer available. It subs up to the third style valve, making the second generation valve a third generation after it has been rebuilt. It still has the humpback casting, but the internals are different. The valve seats in the first generation housings are more prone to crack than the later ones. The valves are adjusted in pretty much the same way. More complicated than a spool valve, yes, but no man-eaters. It just takes patience.
 
Local JD garage here in upstate NY won't even rebuild them. They cob on a dual spool valve and all problems go away. Tools no longer available for the rockshaft valve and the new steering valve tool/ plate is horrible. They do have an old cracked one they guard with there lives when doing steering valves.
 

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