My 1020 is leaking oil out of the flywheel housing. I assume it's the crank seal gone bad since the tractor is almost 50 yrs old. Has anyone done a crank seal on a gas JD 1020? I was hoping to do it without any specialized tools since I can't seem to find a place that rents the seal removal/installer tool. Any tips would be appreciated. I was hoping that a slide hammer attached to the seal with screws would help removal. And was wondering if I could make some type of instillation tool with a large PVC pipe and some sort of mounting plate that I can screw into. Directions mention a cold chisel to remove, but that seems likely to damage the crank sealing surface if not carefull. Should I do the front seal as well even though it's not leaking? or do you think I have another 20 yrs left in that one. I'm not one to mess with something thats not broken.
- Thread starter pdreid300
- Start date
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
There's an engine serial number break for CS seal. I would also recommend checking pto input shaft seal for leakage.
If you have a real early 1020 - the rear main
seal is an odd-ball design and rotates with the
crankshaft . The few I've had to fix got
modified to the newer stationary style that
requires changing the flywheel housing.
If you have the modern conventional stationary
rear-main-seal - you can take off the flywheel
housing and easily press out the seal if you
want. Or just drill small holes in it, thread a
slide-hammer into the holds and yank it out.
Getting the seal back over the crank-boss is
the issue. The lip of the seal will want to
fold over. Without the special tool - you have
to carefully guide the lip with a feeler gauge,
small pick, or something thin.
seal is an odd-ball design and rotates with the
crankshaft . The few I've had to fix got
modified to the newer stationary style that
requires changing the flywheel housing.
If you have the modern conventional stationary
rear-main-seal - you can take off the flywheel
housing and easily press out the seal if you
want. Or just drill small holes in it, thread a
slide-hammer into the holds and yank it out.
Getting the seal back over the crank-boss is
the issue. The lip of the seal will want to
fold over. Without the special tool - you have
to carefully guide the lip with a feeler gauge,
small pick, or something thin.
Wouldn't try installing the seal you got w/o tool. The previous design (not the earliest one) had the wear ring in the seal and was recommended not to remove.
The ring you remove with the chisel cannot be gotten to w/o removing the engine rear housing. You don't cut the ring all the way through. Just strike it in a few locations causes it to stretch enough to slide off.
The ring you remove with the chisel cannot be gotten to w/o removing the engine rear housing. You don't cut the ring all the way through. Just strike it in a few locations causes it to stretch enough to slide off.
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