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Rims stuck!

L

loves80z

Member
I purchased new rims and tires for my 2520. Fronts were very nice. Done. Rears not so much. Soaked them for a few days with penatrant. They are double bevel with a wedge/toe clamp. I cant get the bolts out. I put the nut on the bolt and hit it with a sledge hammer and they don't give. The toe clamps are loose on one side. The other rim is tight. Anyone got any tricks i can use to get my rims off?

Thanks,
Kev
 
Use an air impact hammer with a flat tip. Put the nuts back on the rim clamp bolts a turn or two and use the air hammer and they should slowly start pushing out. I had the same problem and that worked for me. Good luck!
 
I had a set like that on a 3020, both sides were rusted tight, I ended up cutting them off flush with the casting and blowing in each way with a torch, which with the tip I had it would only let me blow in about 3/4" but it gave some relief and the heat on top of that allowed me to hammer them out,,but it was a battle, and of course new bolts all the way around...
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I had the same trouble with a 720. Ended up drilling the bolt
heads off to get the rim off. Tried to get rims loose to adjust
and got on side off. Ended up busting the other rim. So cut
with a plasma cutter and drilled many many small holes
around the rim broke sections off with sledge. Cut with saws
all and air chisel. About a week later had that side off. But I
had two spare rims with extra wedges so I was not too
concerned. Good luck
 
better lay off the hammer, you will be buying new centers. Take your acetylene torch and heat the bolts...you may have to do a couple of time but the expansion will loosen the crude that is wedging it. The reason you can"t drive out is there is no clearance and as you try to drive the crude is driven in like a wedge effect. Use the torch.....
 
I was afraid that there wasn't an easy way. I tried the air hammer. No go. Sledge hammered all but 2 on one side. Started the other side and the first one did not want to move with the sledge. So I guess its off to battle.

Thanks!
 
Crap. I didn't think of that. Too late for side one. I don't have a torch. I have always wanted one though. Now is a good time as any.
 
Ive owned several tractor i take nut off spray the bolt good with wd and use a long punch and a 5lb shop hammer, its work but im old and I always get them out,oh it does hurt if you hit your hand with a full swing.
 
There are some that are tight and then there are some that are "Real Tight"....I always bid the job with new bolts in mind...
 
I'm getting all new bolts. I've gone this far so what's s little more right? Just trying to decide if I can do it without buying torches. I'm hosing with penatrant since Wednesday. I think it makes a difference. Ill try my 5 lb hammer again tomorrow.
 
A long barreled air chisel is more likely to get it done, not one of those short barreled ones that work good at cutting sheet metal. I have both, by the way. The long barreled one is too wild for sheet metal. Jim
 
OK, another question and update. I drilled thru one bolt past where it was engaged in the wheel. I increased drill size till I contacted the cast iron. I put a drift in the pilot hole and hit it with a 3 lb hammer and it still wont give. Now I'm getting frustrated. I ordered an ingersol rand 118maxk long barrel air hammer and all new nuts and bolts. I have gotten permission from work to borrow the ox-acetelyne torches.

My plan is to heat it then go to the air hammer. What am I heating (wheel or bolt or both) with the torch and how hot? Do I hammer it hot or wait for it to cool? I see that hitting the bolts with my sledge was a big mistake. I did not think about cracking the wheel or the fact that they were only available used. I guess I was lucky that I did not crack it before I got advice here.

Thanks.
Kevin
 
I heated and blew into the bolt on each side about 3/4",till it poped back on me, the with a good punch near the same size of the bolt (5/8")I hammered the rest of the bolt on out, I don't think that you can break that hub very easily,,,the heat from cutting on the old bolt, plus releasing a large part of the bolt from binding in the bore helps too, along with the expanding and contracting to break the rust hold some too.
 
I finally got them off. I borrowed the torches from work, but the acetylene tank was almost empty, so I could not get much heat. I ended up breaking the head off the square side. I had already drilled up into the bolt from the thread side so I used my die grinder and chewed the thing down inside the wheel. I purchased an ingersol extreme long barrel air hammer and hit it with that, chewed it with the die grinder and repeat. When it finally popped out it was about 3/4 inch long. The other side came out with the long barrel air hammer.

Thanks to everyone for the help!!!

Kevin
 
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