JD 50 brake drum removal - rusted TIGHT

AlanA

Member
I've got my winter project home, but I need to be able to move it around. It is a '54 JD 50, and the left brake is locked up tight.

I loosened the nut and removed the lock and spacer washers from the shaft, and I tapped the shaft in about 1/2", per the book. Then it stopped. It doesn't appear to be far enough to let the hub slip off the splines. Should it go farther in?

The hub still appears to be FIRMLY stuck on the shoes. Any ideas on how to break it loose? I need to be able to move the tractor without digging trenches with the rear wheel.

The clutch is rusted solid in the engaged position, but it appears to be a straightforward job.
 
You should probably unbolt the assembly and put it in the vise, I don't think the shaft will go in much farther while it is still bolted to the case..the brake shoes are what is holding the drum tight...set it down into some good "Juice" and let it soak a bit..
 
Unbolt the complete brake unit and remove it from the tractor.
I have freed up several by banging on the brake drum too but be warned I have also split some of those drums doing that !
 
Doesn't seem you are familiar with set up....put nut back on pull back up to drum...hope you didn't mar the threads, then pull the whole assembly....you may have to remove cultivator nuts...then remove shaft...then tap "gently" with brass hammer the drum loose...shoes are holding...also be careful not to loose any fingers as the shoe springs will whip the pads around...your cams and adjusters will need to be freed...probably will require some heat...when reinstalling the shoes and springs....I would use some clamps to hold in place rather than take a chance on loosing another finger...adjust down pads..put the drum back on with shaft..then adjust out....working on these brakes is a fairly major job...don't break anything as it cost a ton to buy those parts....good luck be careful....
 
there is also a seal that you could replace...many times the main bushing is worn out of round...however if you go there you will need a press and even possibly some machine shop time...brake drums could be turned if you can find someone with a setup to allow....good luck..
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:52 08/13/14) Doesn't seem you are familiar with set up....put nut back on pull back up to drum...hope you didn't mar the threads, then pull the whole assembly....you may have to remove cultivator nuts...then remove shaft...then tap "gently" with brass hammer the drum loose...shoes are holding...also be careful not to loose any fingers as the shoe springs will whip the pads around...your cams and adjusters will need to be freed...probably will require some heat...when reinstalling the shoes and springs....I would use some clamps to hold in place rather than take a chance on loosing another finger...adjust down pads..put the drum back on with shaft..then adjust out....working on these brakes is a fairly major job...don't break anything as it cost a ton to buy those parts....good luck be careful....

I was doing per the I&T manual. There doesn't appear to be room on a 50 to unbolt the brake assembly and get it past the casting on the axle for the cultivator bolts. You have to get the drum off before the rest of the assembly will slide out.

I was very careful to put the nut back on flush, and use a hardwood block to protect the threads. I even put the washers back on and re-tightened the nut to pull the shaft back out, and repeated the procedure to make sure I had the shaft tapped in as far as possible.

This is my first Waterloo 2-cyl, and I'm trying to proceed with caution. 8) Things should go a little smoother when I can get it in the shop, instead of out back where the wrecker dumped it.
 
That does sound a little familiar now on that model 50.
I think on one of mine on one side it came out with the stud removed the other side would not. a little work on the axle casting with an angle grinder and then it would.
Maybe with the shaft loose and the brake assembly unbolted it may give enough wiggle room as it pulls out farther to clear the axle casting ?
 
Forgot to add that on the left hand side that shaft will hit the differential drive gear before it goes in very far IIRC. Other side will darn near seem to go far enough to fall in there.
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:58 08/13/14) Forgot to add that on the left hand side that shaft will hit the differential drive gear before it goes in very far IIRC. Other side will darn near seem to go far enough to fall in there.

Figures :roll: That is the side giving me problems. Looks like it won't QUITE go in far enough to be off the splines. Next step is to try a little heat.

I have an oxy/acetylene rig, but it was my wife's dad's, and has not been used in many years. First, I will just try a propane torch. I've tried tapping on the drum with an old hickory hammer handle, but no luck yet.

I figure it is a whole lot easier (and cheaper) to be careful and patient than it is to rush things.


Besides, it gives the ATF time to loosen up the engine while I get the chassis to the point it will roll.

Good news is, the tires seem to be holding air, even the left rear. It has a hole rusted in the rim where the valve stem comes thru.
 
you can take the propane torch and light your grill. Oxy/act is only thing to get heat. First thing I do to tractor is brakes, next is tires...
 

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