Value of a gas 3020

PJH

Well-known Member
I wheeled in this evening to look at a gas 3020 that was sitting by the roadside with a For Sale sign on it. It was pretty sharp. Original paint, with all the normal wear showing in the right places. Wheels had been repainted sometime in the distant past. No rear wheel weights. Rear wheels in good shape - no signs of calcium leakage, but they might be dry. The tach showed 2300 hours. It was a PowerShift. Serial number makes it a mid to late 1964. ALL of the panels were in place. There were NO dents in the nose of the hood, or on any of the sheet metal, for that matter. Top link was there. Sway blocks, front weights were there. Drawbar hole had very little wear. It is missing the PTO shield. I've seen this tractor hooked to a bin auger over the years, but I don't know anything else about it. Narrow front, which I like, but probably reduces the value. I don't think it has a differential lock, but don't know enough about them to know for sure. Good seat and back. Knobs on the left side of the steering wheel have been replaced with a short piece of rubber hose. Tires looked good - not all cracked up, but about 60% tread left on the rear. No one was around, so I didn't hear it run or hear the story about it. It's obvious that it has not been abused. This tractor is close enough that I could drive it home in a couple of hours. I've been around two cylinder JD's all of my life, and I know absolutely nothing about the new gen tractors. Got home too late to call tonight.
 
It's in S.E. Missouri Jim. I noticed the HP difference between the Synchro and the Power Shift on Tractor Data and wondered about the fuel. It would have a pretty easy life on my place, (100 - 150 round bales a year) so fuel consumption wouldn't be too big of an issue. I'm scared of the PowerShift, only because I know nothing about them. I guess the gas engine has the balancers too? I try to read most everything you and Tim write about these tractors, in an effort to educate myself, but without one handy to look at, most of it goes over my head.

Thanks to both of you for your replies.
 

Yes PS trans requires some HP/fuel to operate. If the PS trans shifts correctly through all gears with hyd oil at operating temp I think you'll be fine. When I sold new 3020/4020's the PS trans were considered "wetback proof" IE indestructible as long as they were not continually run low on oil or towed without putting in "TOW". PS trans was the forerunner to a hyd shuttle trans. PS trans is a nice trans for baling hay.
 
As described the tractor, in the Ohio area it would go for between $5-6K as well. Would be an real nice piece of equipment if you are just rolling hay with it - 4x5's or smaller anyway.
 
Should make a pretty cheap and quality tractor to buy for limited use.
For warm weather operations the powershift should not slow you down too bad. I had one and in the winter it took a long time for the oil to warm up to where it shifted decent.
And even if it does rob some power you can make up for it by being able to shift down under full power and load on a hill. I really liked that on the one I had when I happened to select the wrong gear or guessed my load was lighter than it was.
Find a loader for it while your at it.
 
Should make a pretty cheap and quality tractor to buy for limited use.
For warm weather operations the powershift should not slow you down too bad. I had one and in the winter it took a long time for the oil to warm up to where it shifted decent.
And even if it does rob some power you can make up for it by being able to shift down under full power and load on a hill. I really liked that on the one I had when I happened to select the wrong gear or guessed my load was lighter than it was.
Find a loader for it while your at it. And add a wide front end and you can move those bales around with it too.
 
A tip when looking at these with Power Shift... make sure the PTO clutch brake works. They get expensive if there is trouble with the PTO or brake.
 
On this particular engine, it has a balancer box rather than balancer shafts. You can remove the balancer on this one by removing the oil pan after the timing is set, and unbolting balancer, which is better than the Dubuque engines where the engine has to be disassembled to get the shafts out.
 
Would be $6000 min$8500 max but I live where a gas tractor will start for 6 months a lot easer than a diesel
 
It sold for $7500. Owner said it was as it seemed - original paint - everything worked - good tractor.

Thanks to everyone for all of the good advice!
 

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