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JD 4010 Generator light doesn't come on when key turned

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fuzzeykatz

New User
I have a 1961 JD 4010 that my dad purchased in 2003. It still has the 24 volt system. My dad and brother have passed away recently and I'm trying to figure things out with this tractor. Using it for cutting and baling hay. Started great after sitting over winter and for first few times using it. Then it wouldn't start, replaced one of the batteries (left side) that tested at 10 with volt meter, right side battery tested fine. Now it starts but the generator indicator light does not come on when the key is first turned like it is supposed to. Once started it comes on and once the rpms are increased it goes off as it should. The operators manual says to determine cause of light not coming on when key is turned but offers no help. What and how do I start the investigation. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Fuzzeykatz
 

If tractor battery cables have been changed to the later styles similar to parts schematic be sure pigtail(parts key 30) that attaches from rear LH battery post to frame is making a good connection.
mvphoto9461.jpg
 

Thanks for replying. Silly question...does the generator light have 2 bulbs because the light does come on once tractor is started, just doesn't light up when key is turned. That would be great if that is all it is.
 

TX Jim - thanks. There isn't a pigtail. This light was functioning as it should the first few starts of the season and then quit lighting when key was turned on the last good start before we replaced the battery. Not sure if this additional information will help. What else can it be?
 

Thanks so much. I truly appreciate any advice. It's been a rough year and now trying to figure out tractor stuff. :? This is really an informative site.
 
Does it still have ground straps or is it like the pic?
There should be a fusible link (small black wire from + post of LH battery to tran case).Later a fused wire was used with a fuse instead of having to replace small wire when it burned in two.
 
Hey D-
No ground straps. The left side battery has it's positive post attached to the frame. Looks like negative post of left battery goes to starter. It appears the right side battery has its negative post going to frame and positive post goes to starter. Does this sound correct? Haven't had the floor plate off to see what, if anything is going on under there. Tomorrow I will be replacing the right side battery. Tried to get away saving money but right side battery cut out today. My dad's old Ford Jubilee decided to have fan blade/shroud issues today - there's no end to the madness.
Thanks
 

fuzzeykatz
Although a lot of 4010 battery cables have been converted to later model 24 V 4020 battery cables it sounds as if yours is still factory style cables similar to this 4010 parts photo.
mvphoto9529.jpg
 
Hey TX Jim,
Yes I think that is what I have going on. 21 and 22 on the parts photo on my tractor are cables not straps. If this is still factory - is that a bad thing? Should it be switched to the 4020 style. Please forgive my ignorance. Trying to figure it all out.
 
The woven battery straps are prone to corrosion more than the rubber covered cables plus one loses some electrical conductivity from 2 more connections with straps is the reason I think JD went to the rubber covered cable connecting both batteries. IMHO if your tractor starts good I wouldn't change it. If it was my tractor and I changed anything it would be changed from 24 volt to 12 volt just to get away from the possibility of an electrical short/fire under the dash.
 
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