What motors for 2510 Diesel?

What motors swap out for original in 2510 Diesel, and where are the best places to start looking? Any idea of fair price? I understand the 300 and 219 are good choices, is that correct? What other motors and which would likely be obtainable fairly reasonably? Thanks much. I heard new motors are prohibitively expensive, is that correct? Appreciate the help.
 
I'll try to answer your question, rather than be a smart guy. There's enough of those around.

Your tractor as built has a 202. The 219 and 239s will bolt right in, provided they are non turbo- it appears that a turbo interferes with the second hydraulic valve if your tractor is equipped with such. Nonetheless, it could be done.

Tim S also has mentioned using the 276 engine.

All of these were a basic Dubuque design that was very similar, but improved, from mid 60's till about 2005 or so. It appears that the new emmission req'ts ended their production.

Best of luck!
 
(quoted from post at 10:21:37 07/24/14) I understand the 300 and 219 are good choices, is that correct? .

There's no 300 CID engine but Dubuque,Mannheim,Saran engines were referred to as "300 SERIES" engines. Any Dubuque,Mannheim,Saran 4 cylinder engine will fit into the 2510.
 
You may want to see if you have a liner leaking and if so is it caused by cavitation of the block before buying another engine. I'm no mechanic, but I did go through a similar thing with a 2520 but a dealer did the work. I understand there's a way to pressure test the liner to block seal. In my case, cavitation of the block had caused the leak. There is a machine shop that said they could machine the block to fix it, but, being at a dealer, if it didn't work I'd have to pay to tear it down again. A new engine was about $1,000.00 more when their labor was factored in so that seemed to be a better choice. If you can do the work yourself, it's a different story.
 
Thanks for the help Coonie, and Tx Jim. Some fellas get kicks out of smart-guy responses that serve no legitimate purpose. I appreciate that you guys are not those types. Anti-freeze is disappearing at at a pretty good rate all of a sudden, not dripping or leaking. Plus I just noticed a little oil floating in the anti-freeze in the radiator. My Dad bought this tractor new and its done a great deal of work over the last sixty years. I'm trying to determine our best options for keeping it going forward.
 
Ferd, as I mentioned in another response to this thread, we suddenly got a goodly amount of anti-freeze disappearing, not dripping or leaking, just disappearing. Don't know if its getting into the cylinders and evaporating or what. Plus, I've noticed a little oil floating on the top of the radiator when I take the cap off now. This tractor has lots of hours, we bought it new and its original.
 
If you want original a 2020 also uses 202. Other sizes will work. Tear yours down first. A used engine might need the same as yours.
 
(quoted from post at 08:58:42 07/24/14) Sess he has a MOTOR, no mention of a ENGINE, guess he does need some help. Start reading GREEN MAG. LOL

Ha! My boat has an "outboard engine" and my locomotive has a "steam motor" or at least that's the way it should be if the rules were always followed.
 
You know what Mopar stands for? Its a contraction of MOtor and PARts. Ford Motor Company. General Motors. Motor vehicles. Engine, motor, who really cares?
 

My dad and a few other old timers did.I don't know if you are a subscriber but I did an editorial about this a few years ago. He would always "correct" me if I called a gas or diesel engine a motor. He of course always said "steam engine" but by strict his and some other's definition of something that gets its energy from an outside source, it would have to be a steam "motor" like an electric or hydraulic motor.
 
I guess it may depend on where you're from. English called them motor cars. Rocket science also called them motors. So did practically all major American car companies. In the end, technically an engine is a type of motor perhaps. It's one of those debates maybe.
 
Any four cylinder 300 series engine will bolt in. Lke a 202, 219, 239, etc. Problem is - a 2510 needs a HD block because the block is part of the frame in those tractors. So many newer "lightweight" engines cannot be used even though they fit.
 
Ron, there is a machine shop in Eau Claire WI that goes through engines. They worked on a block for me, even machined in new O-Ring seats. They also will do the complete engine work. Anyway, if you are not near there you may want to see if there is a shop like that near you.
The 2510 is a great tractor, keep it going is my vote. I also agree with a comment below, tear it down to see what you have. Paul
 
A 239 would be a good choice just make sure it is correct model.They were in powerplants ,6000 sprayers and there are more than one model.276 would be newer and more power Tim or Jim would know correct one.
 
If you bought your tractor new and it's never been rebuilt before -the sleeves only have one seal each. The new replacement sleeves will have three seals each and that does a much better job of sealing - even if the block has damage from corrosion and cavitation. You might just need a simple "in frame" rebuild.
 

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