Tech 7

Well-known Member
I hate to be a bother and to that end I did look through the archives to no avail. I have a 4010D with starting issues......no click no crank...batteries are both up, connections are good, tractor is a daily user and this problem happened suddenly. I have done a bit of looking and have come to find that the "s" terminal on the start solenoid has 12v all the time even with the wire disconected. Am I checking this right?? Black meter lead on - of LH battery, + on "s" terminal.....Email is open if you wish, Thanks, B
 
I'm not John T or as qualified as John T but have you checked the neutral start switch(parts key 28A or 28B) on gearshift quadrant in frt of dash????????? Sometimes plastic arm(parts key 18 2nd photo) gets worn and requires adjustment/replacement.
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While you're there take a look at the spring and switch. You might disconnect and bypass the switch to eliminats it as a problem.
Connect tester to ground (pos) cable on LH battery. If it still has ground cables?
 
Yes Jim I did check the nuetral start switch...sorry I left that out on the previous post
 
Tech 7, I'm really really glad Tx Jim chimed in because New Generation is NOT my specialty, (and he a good hand at posting pics from books) I'm better qualified on Two Cylinder. Sure I can help a bit on charging issues and understand the 24 volt system, but other then that Mr Jim is who Id go to....

That being said, as I understand it (I have no 4020 diagrams, so if I'm wrong maybe Jim can correct me) the starter solenoid is 24 volt, it gets + 12 volt from one battery and - 12 volt from the other and when BOTH are connected to it via a switch it sees 24 volts and engages. However it DOES NOT USE OR HAVE ANY FRAME GROUND CONNECTION when 24 volts is applied off the outer untied opposite battery posts (24 volts) it engages. When I said + and - 12 volts, I was ONLY indicating the two battery posts and what their voltage is with respect to frame ground, even though the solenoid DOES NOT RELY ON OR USE FRAME GROUND.

Id venture a guess the 12 volts you measured with respect to frame ground only indicates that happens to be the one unswitched solenoid terminal, while the other small terminal (that makes it engage) only gets power when the start switch is operated, that way it sees 24 volts. The switched terminal would NOT have any voltage with respect to frame ground as its not connected to anything until the start switch is operated, yet the other will always show 12 volts.

On some 4020's the 24 volts up to the A & B light switch circuits for 12 volt loads (some + others -) was derived at the starter where a circuit breaker or relay was placed so at that location you should be able to measure + 12 volts with respect to frame ground (leads to one of the big battery cables) and - 12 volts with respect to frame ground (leads to other big battery cable) and across both the big cables it will read 24 volts.

SO IF THERES NO CLICK and yet the unswitched terminal on the solenoid is indeed rightly connected to one of the batteries, the other circuit (A & B feeds up to dash from starter area) must not be getting power. See if it has wires direct off the big cables at the starter or if it has circuit breakers and Ima thinking one of the feeds up to the dash IS NOT HOT. Again, it needs feeds of + 12 and - 12 (BOTH batteries big outer cables is source) up to the dash which it may not be getting due to a broken wire or a bad breaker or ????

NOTE if the above were true, (A or B feed source is missing) it looks to me like some but not all of the lights would be working IS THAT THE CASE

Sorry not much help on New Gen

John T
 

Tech 7
With trans in neutral or better yet with someone sitting in seat with clutch pedal depressed have you tried shorting across from "S" terminal to top post on starter solenoid to see if starter will engage???
 
Thanks for the input....I will print your info off and read it at home JohnT (seems to work better for my old-everything-you-read-is-on-paper-not-on-a-screen mind). But to this point yes the lights are bright (NOT 24v bright)and yes Jim I did try crossing terminals at the starter as you suggested, 'cept I was by myself so then I tie the clutch pedal down with a rope.
Again thanks for the info, it will be Wednesday when I can get back out there.
 
If alllllllll lights are working, it sounds like the A & B circuit feeds up to the dash from the starter area are intact, so see what Jim has to say from here out regarding other interlocks etc.

John T
 
(quoted from post at 16:24:57 07/22/14) But to this point yes the lights are bright (NOT 24v bright)and yes Jim I did try crossing terminals at the starter as you suggested, 'cept I was by myself so then I tie the clutch pedal down with a rope.

My next guess is faulty starter solenoid or starter.
 

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