630 Power Shaft Drive Gear

PJH

Well-known Member
I have engine oil getting into the first reduction gear area. I'm wanting to replace the right hand main bearing oil seal, and it requires removal of the Power Shaft Drive Gear from the crankshaft. My service manual says, "The power shaft drive gear can best be installed on crankshaft before the crankshaft is installed in engine". Do I have another option for installing this gear, other than completely removing the crankshaft from the engine? I don't want to do anything risky or foolish and ruin something, but I wondered about using the end hole in the crank to make a sleeve pusher, then heating the gear in oil and pushing it on with the crank still in the tractor. My conscience is telling me that this is a stupid idea.

Paul
 
paul i use a rose bud on my torch and heat the gear then pull it off heat to 500 degrees in elec stove oven then slips back on easy
 
An electric oven is a good way to warm things like this up, it heats them evenly and at a controlled temperature,, I have an old electric pizza oven here that I use for this, I have used old deep fryers for this in the past but the oven is a cleaner method...
 

If the Rt Seal is letting engine oil into the 1st reduction, I would very carefully measure the bearing clearance..

Use a Dial Indicator on the crankshaft and a small Jack ( if you cannot lift it enough by hand ) to see what the Dial Indicator shows as movement..

The 620/630 has a condition where the "O-Ring" they call a Gasket swells and blocks oil to that side Main and rod bearing..

Mine didn't make any odd sounds at all with over .070" Main bearing clearance..but did get engine oil in the 1st reduction..

Best check it or you may well be back in there again ( and be looking for a Crank and Rod)..

I was lucky and both were OK after clean-up..

Didn't have to re-heat the gear to re-install it, but it needed some Heat to get it to come off.

Ron.
 
Thanks for the info Ron. I'm down to removing the power shaft drive gear. I can't "feel" any motion by lifting the crankshaft. I don't have a dial indicator. Gonna see if I can find one tomorrow. Son is a mechanic, but I don't like to borrow tools. The splines and journals in the clutch area looked good, altho the clutch bearing was noisy. New bearing and clutch disks should be here Friday or Monday. I was gonna try a bearing splitter on the power shaft drive gear - the torch makes me nervous - but it's rolled into position for tomorrow, ha. I remember reading about your trick of inserting a piece of 1/8" tubing in the drain hole. Haven't gotten that far yet.

Can you tell me what these two bolts are for? I can't find any mention of them in my service manual. You can see them on the main bearing housing, above and below the power shaft drive gear, at 12 and 6 o'clock.

Thanks
Paul
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A bearing separator will help get the gear moving, but some heat may be necessary when you get past the point where the separator can work and you need to use the gear puller.

That threaded Tube is more like 1/4" ID, you will see the threads it will thread into when the Bearing Quill is removed.

Ron.
 
Thanks Ron - I'm having trouble finding a separator that's big enough to clear all of the obstacles. Gonna try to make one today. The old tractor has had fuel in the crankcase in the past, and the torch makes me nervous. I feel like I'm lighting a match to see if there's fuel in the tank, if you know what I mean. I'd hate to burn up the tractor, but I'd hate worse to lose the shop and its contents.
 

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