John Deere 300B dies like it's out of fuel

It's me again, first note from a earlier post some of you might remember from my main hydraulic pump rebuild, everything is working great hydraulic wise, now the new problem. Backhoe was running good no problems nor signs of any problems we stopped what we were working and took a break went back out and started the backhoe and it ran a couple of moments and died as if it ran out of fuel, I new that was impossible, I tried to start it immediately would not start so waited a couple of moments it started like normal but died the same way almost immediately this time so we a while this time and it started a ran a couple of moments and died the some way, did some researching and learned about a check valve on top of the injector pump and read about where a couple of people had drilled out the valve checked mine and it'd been drilled, I cranked it with return line removed the same thing died a couple of moments after cranked and no fuel came from the return line connection. After this and some researching I've come to the conclusion that the issue is the injector pump needing rebuilding. My main question is this, do yawl feel I'm on the right track, I'm asking because I don't want to go through the trouble of rebuilding the pump especially with a broken leg and this not be the problem. Yes I've broke my leg since I was last on here, I did this taking wire out the attic in my Uncles old house (100+ old) we're tearing down and yes I'm operating the backhoe and a farm tractor, plus building forms for a low water crossing and poured 60 plus 60# bags of cement.

Typical symptoms of a plugged check ball in the fuel return line fitting on inj pump. Loosen the 2 screws on timing window on inj pump. Pry gasket loose then see if engine will run. If it runs check ball is plugged and needs cleaned.Drive ring in inj pump is deteriorating plugging check ball and needs replaced.

It is possible that you didn"t take the correct fitting out, the check valve is in the fitting that actually screws into the pump, and as Jim said removing the timing window will let it start and run if this is the problem.

On the top of the injection pump is two fittings screwed together. The one that actually is threaded into the pump cover is the one you have to remove. That is the housing-pressure-regulator. Are you saying you had that completely out -so all there was in the top of the pump cover - was an open hole? If that IS the case - then you need to look for other problems. My 300B died on me awhile back with the exact same symptoms. I tried to keep restarting it just to get it home - but no good. It would only run for a second or two, and peter out and die. Then restart. I took that fitting all the way out and drove home with fuel spilling all over the place. I posted a photo of the pump and valve.
Also note - if you took that valve out - made sure it was clear (with no spring and ball) and then put it back in - it's likely it still will not run. That because the broken plastic made its way into the return-fuel boots on top of your injectors.
After I drove mine home - I pulled the pump apart and fixed it. Start to finish it took me around 4 hours. Had a broken plastic (pellathane) governor dampener. I removed it and replaced with with an upgrade from Stanadyne. A solid aluminum plate with no plastic in it.

This what a newly installed plastic ring looks like, a broken ring, and the solid aluminum upgrade. Also what the pump looks like when it's apart.

When return fuel cannot get out of the pump, pressure gets so high it stops all incoming "feed" fuel. So, in essence, it runs out of fuel from too much internal fuel pressure.

If you are sure fuel can freely leave the pump and it won't stay running - repost. I'll tell you how to check the metering valve and the low-pressure transfer pump and screen inside the back of the injection pump.

By the way -I have just assumed you are 100% sure fuel is actually getting TO the injection pump. Correct?

Yes I did take everything off to the cover on top of the pump, mine only has one fitting screwed into the top of the pump apparently the previous owner has removed the fitting with the check valve in it because I don't have one on mine with all that removed I still have no fuel coming out of the top of the injector pump, JDemaris, I didn't actually pull the main fuel line off the pump and turn the engine over to see if I'm getting fuel to the injector pump I assumed I was because the engine will run for a few moments then die and after I wait a while (5 to 10 Min.) it'll crank right up and run for a moment.

I've got a question not related to this problem this backhoe does not have working tach on it, it's busted and the cable is missing also I would like to replace both but have not been able to figure out where the cable hooks up on the engine would someone steer me in the right direction on this matter please.

(reply to post at 09:51:36 07/14/14)

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Speed-hour meter(tachometer) cable housing attaches to FW housing.

Correction, the 29111 is an Elastomer Insert Drive retainer similar to the 27984 kit that came out in 1985. Clamp an old rotor in a vise and set each new type on the rotor slot and twist by hand, they both will flex. Difference is 27984 cage is for rounded heel weights while 29111 is for sharp heel weights. The 29111 came out in 1993, in all pumps where used.

Here's an update, JDemaris you remember that statement you made about me making sure I was getting fuel to the injector pump and I said that I didn't actually check that, that I assumed that because it was starting and running a couple of minutes that it was getting fuel, I don't know if you've ever watched the movie with Steven Seagal Under Siege 2 and the guy that's taken over the train makes the statement of what assumption is, that could've been my situation today, thanks for that statement because I checked that and no fuel to pump changed fuel filter and problem solved, also, thanks to everyone else for your responces.

Tx and JDemaris, do not take this dis-respectively it is in no way meant that way, I know you 2 are older than me (53) you 2 cannot die I rely on yawl a great deal when I get on here because I know you'll respond and I know I can trust yaws response, now if you 2 do leave this earth I want yawl to put in your wills that I am to get each of yawls knowledge on equipment, you 2 have helped me out in more ways than you'll ever know (I track yawls responses on here) and I greatly appreciate yawls help more then I can ever say.

That may be true when buying from Stanadyne. Last two I bought (solid aluminum) from an aftermarket dealer came as # 29111. Not an EID like used on all the passenger vehicles after 1985 with the exposed snap-rings for the inserts. Stanadyne had a drive with no pellathane ring back in the 1960s. I installed a few back then. The type with the pellathane ring was called an "option" by Stanadyne for the DB, although every one I've seen from a Ford, Case, Oliver, IH, Deere, AC has had it. CDC and CBC did not.

I saw the train movie many times with Steven Segal and Gary Busey and the birthday cake.

If you had a plugged fuel strainer at the bottom of the fuel tank - it could give the exact same symptoms as a failed governor dampener. In both cases - the pump would be starving for fuel but after shut-off, recover and start again. Same goes for a non-working fuel pump (or plugged) on the side of the engine. If checking a fuel pump - you must do it with the engine cranking. NOT by just using the hand-primer. Checking with the hand-primer can give a false reading.

I agree totally with you. These guys are a wealth of information. I rebuilt my 350c injection pump using jdemaris"s knowledge. I would not even attempted it before, but it was pretty straitforward with John"s posts. He had all the part numbers and tips that really helped. Thanks again you guys for sharing. Ken