2020 transmission pump

WGreufe

Member
A couple weeks ago I bought my Grandpa's 2020 from my Grandma. It had been parked in the machine shed for 15+ years because the hydraulics quit working on it again for the second time and Grandma wasn't going to spend the money to fix them again. I am pretty sure it isn't the high pressure pump since when I first got it started the lift arms worked right and steering was fine. After it ran for a few minutes the lift arms became "chattery" when lifting and the clutch wont completely disengage. Steering and brakes seem to work fine though.

I am going to change the filter and check the screen but my uncle who was running the tractor when it started acting up and parked said that he had just changed the filter and checked the fluid right before it quit years ago.

From looking at the service manual and pics of the pump online it looks to be a standard gear pump. The tractor only has 3400 hours total on it and it was taken care of. I may be wrong but the pump should last much longer than that. If in fact it is the transmission pump is this something I can tackle myself or would I have to split the tractor? The picture in the FSM isn't real clear but I am thinking it is on the back of the clutch housing.

If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. I am going to run by Deere tomorrow and get some hydraulic fluid and a new filter and will check the screen for blockage.
a107717.jpg
 
I have a 2010U that the hydraulics werent working very well. I changed the fluid and cleaned the filter. Unfortunately I used the universal fluid from my local farm store and it was a BIG mistake. It worked for awhile and started acting up again. I went to Deere, got Hygard, flushed the entire system with diesel, cleaned the filter again and it has been working perfectly for 2 years now. Use Hygard, its more expensive but well worth it.
 
Well, curiousity got the better of me and I went and pulled the screen on the trans. The end farthest into the tractor was caked with black stuff. I am not sure what it was but I will be draining the system and refilling with JD hydraulic fluid as well as a new filter.

I am suspecting that the fluid in the tractor isnt Deere and that is what is causing my problems. It's supposed to snow the next couple of days so I wont get to work on it til the weather clears up.
 
The black stuff was probably brake lining,,you may as well pull the final drives first and see what is in there. When you put the screen back in make sure you don't "Scoop" up any of the crapp into the screen, it will go directly to the pump and if it's not already bad it will be.....
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:33 03/20/13) How do I check the standby pressure?

If tractor has SCV(remote hyd valve with couplers) you can plug a gauge in the breakaway. If no SCV then at a plug on the frt pump. If your tractor has the smaller pump then remove plug(parts key #53) and install gauge. While you're there check the filter(parts key #46). On the black stuff on the screen does it appear to have any "fiber type" material in it??
15959.jpg
 
You may have a high pressure leak to sump...If you had hydraulics at start up and then lost them the front pump was supplied with oil. If the hitch valve (common) is leaking the leak will "outrun" what the tranny pump will supply to the front pump and you lose hydraulics. You can check for a leaking hitch valve when you test your standby pressure as was sugested, by removing the oil fill cap and looking to the front of the rockshaft housing. Oil can appear as a fine spray to an outright run. Not a difficult fix. As far as the steering working I am thinking this tractor possibly has its own steering pump as the 1020 did. In that case it is a stand alone system and is not affected by the other system. Sweet looking tractor even with the operator seated on it (KIDDING) Your Grandpa would be happy tp know its being looked after.
 
(quoted from post at 12:42:48 03/21/13)
(quoted from post at 20:27:33 03/20/13) How do I check the standby pressure?

If tractor has SCV(remote hyd valve with couplers) you can plug a gauge in the breakaway. If no SCV then at a plug on the frt pump. If your tractor has the smaller pump then remove plug(parts key #53) and install gauge. While you're there check the filter(parts key #46). On the black stuff on the screen does it appear to have any "fiber type" material in it??
15959.jpg

The tractor does have one set of remotes so I will be plugging in the gauge there I guess. I guess my next newbie question is where do I get a gauge? Do I just buy a pressure gauge and add a coupler that will snap into the remote?

Is that part #46 fliter just a screen that I can clean or is it a paper element that I should replace? thanks for all the help guys, Wade
 
#46 is a replaceable filter..Pick up a 5,000psi gauge at the local Hydraulic shop,they are about $35 screw an coupler end on it and plug it into the remote. You are about to see the Horrors of the Deere utility hydraulic system,,,We can help you with it but there are things that go on with these that are hard to explain,,,and harder to deal with....
 
After talking to my uncle this morning it seems my problem is they used Champion 4000 hydraulic fluid in it instead for Hygard. I'll drain all the fluids, change filters and fill with Hygard. Hopefully I wont have to put new brakes on it. :fingers crossed:
 
Update

I have been using this little tractor over the last year. Mowing, digging post holes, pulling brush out of the fencerow, plowing and discing the garden, and blading the driveway. I drained the hydraulic fluid twice so far along with a filter change. It seems I will be replacing the brakes sometime in the near future. The left is worse than the right but both need replaced.

How hard is it to do? I am fairly mechanically inclined but have never been into something like this. Is it just a case of pulling the wheels, and final drives off? Will I need any specialty tools? I have a FSM and planned to buy my parts from the website parts store since Mother Deere is so expensive.

Any reason why I shouldn't just order two brake plates and two brake discs beforehand to minimize down time?
 

http://championbrands.com/SpecSheet/THF4000.pdf

I've seen worse poured into a JD transmission. It has all the appearances of a wet clutch compatible oil. Something that does happen is counterfeit lubricants. Anything can be printed on a pail then a low end oil used to fill the pail.
Either a low pressure transmission system isn't pushing oil to the front pump to it's ability due to leaks, plugging , stuck valves or wear. Or the front pump's high pressure system has a leak back to sump as previously stated.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top