John Deere 3130 starter removal?

mcarey

New User
Thanks to everyone who advised me on the repair of the 3130 load shaft! Now two other help questions: Is there a easier way to remove the starter, the upper bolt no problem but the lower is the problem, will I have to remove the big steel side plate to get access to it? And the other question My steering works great, pto good, but the 3 pt. hitch is very slow to pick up. This is my first John deere, I've owned a ford 7000 sincce 1984, still running good! But I think I got a good deal on this 3130 and I like this John Deere!
 

Most JD starters can be removed with a long extension,ratchet & wobble socket or crowsfoot. On slow 3 pt has stand-by pressure been checked? Factory setting is 2250 psi. How long since hyd filer was changed & sump screen checked/cleaned?
 
I just bought the tractor which had been sitting for 4 years, I changed the screen and can filter saturday. The load shaft had a bad bushing and the hyd. had leaked out. Instead of repairing they parked it and bought two new Kobota's. On the starter don't seem enough room to get a socket plus a universal joint to get the nut off?
 
Having the correct tool makes a huge difference. For
your starter it's a Snap On B4400 or Deere/OTC
JDE80.
a159577.jpg
 
With many - you cannot get to it with a swivel. Thus
the special wrench. No Deere tech would (or should)
be caught without one.
 

Yes thats the best tool for the job, but it has to be raining or snowing and dark in order for it to work properly!!
 
Removing that steel plate that reinforces the engine from stress is not too difficult or time consuming.
I have managed to removes and replace a starter with just ordinary wrenches but it took a while.
There is a 4KW Bosch starter which will wail the engine over faster in the winter.
When you have everything apart. Run an extra new cable from the battery(-) to the top starter mounting bolt. Reduces VD.
As previously stated.Time to check flow in gpm supplied to the front pump from the transmission. Then measure front pump pressure and flow.
The pump(s) either have low output or there is a serious phantom leak.
Try pulling the innards from the high pressure priority valve just after the PS supply line .To verify if the rockshaft speed improves.
 
Yes, and some have to be ground down to make the OD
smaller to work (on some Deere tractors). Snap-On
swivel 9/16" or 14 mm used to work the best.
 
If this 3130 ends up leaving a bad taste in your mouth please try out a 4050 or 4055 before you swear off of Deere.

The 3130 is an odd duck but I hope it serves you well. So long as the internal hydraulic leaks don't cause you issue and the hydraulic clutch (cab tractors) doesn't make you curse then it should be just fine.
 
4050 or 4055 is quite a bit larger and more expensive than a 3130. No comparison.
4030 would be a closer match.
 
(quoted from post at 18:26:33 06/10/14)
The 3130 is more at risk from scoring the transmission top shaft than suffering internal hydraulic leaks.

What in your opinion makes a 3130 less vulnerable to internal hyd leaks than say a 2940,2950 or 2955???
 
Right! Plumbing is a little different but results are worse. High low is hydraulic both ways. Afterall this is a pre-2840.
 

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