1010 clutch repair cost

ed in cny

Member
Have need to get a repair done on a 1010. Any ideas what $$ I'd be looking to spend for a clutch repair/replacement? Is this a dealer project or can I the shade tree mechanic do it? Any thought would be great help. Thanks
 
Is this a wheel job or a crawler. I did my crawler and was glad for some help and a place to rig a chainfall. The crawler is more complicated and as I remember back in the late 70s/ early 80s disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing were about $250/300.I did have the shop manual for the crawler. The wheel job should be some what easier as you can get to things. Parts should be available from this site. Parts from a JD Dealer will be more.
 
I did one several years ago and it was about as easy as tractor splits go and parts were reasonable thru aftermarket sources.

A level concrete area and some good blocks and jacks shouldn't be bad at all.
 
Wheel job. I have done other splits and clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate so I know the basic"s but just haven"t worked with a 1010 before. Anything special I ought to look out for and avoid?
 
2nd what Mike M said plus get the service manual for reference,Service Manual 568 Pages (Part No: JD-S-SM2033) $89.95 is available from this site. Don't buy the cheaper version I&T.
 
Just thought I"d post a picture of the tractor. What model is it look like 1010U maybe?
a155040.jpg
 
Here's more on the tractor. It's up for sale and I am trying to figure if it's to costly to repair. I've read prior posts saying that the 1010 tractor wasn't much of a tractor but more of a $$ pit. Am I looking at pit or not. Need to use the tractor to work land not to view it from the shed. Any thoughts on the 1010 as being what I've read good or bad or what? Thanks guys you have been helpful already with the questions I've asked so far. Just don't want to get the $$'s out before I sure.

The old girl had a clutch issue some 5 years back and has been in the shed since resting. Our JD store quoted over the phone 1000.00 to 1200.00 for the repair. Mostly labor but if I can repair it for 400/500 I ought to be ahead. That is if it isn't a pit of a tractor.
 
Their should be a plate on the right side of the engine to identify the year of tractor. The bigger question is whats the rest of the tractor like?? Does the tractor have a 3 point hitch, does it go up and down properly, power steering, work as it should, look for broken bosses around the connection bolt's holding the front and rear castings to the engine block, how does it run, does it need a motor job, front wheel bearings tight?? If it runs at all try driving and shifting the transmission. As far as money pit, it's common to ALL makes and models when they have been neglected. So how neglected is it ??
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:21

I've read prior posts saying that the 1010 tractor wasn't much of a tractor but more of a $$ pit. Am I looking at pit or not. Need to use the tractor to work land not to view it from the shed. Any thoughts on the 1010 as being what I've read good or bad or what? .

Being that 1010 is a gasser. It can be tamed and used with fair success for a 50+ year old tractor .
Any 2010 and a diesel 1010 are best left to those who enjoy a challenge .
 
Just thought I'd put up a couple more pictures of the tractor. Have yet to see it in person will Sunday. Will have to look for the things you all mentioned. Not sure of the bosses maybe you could describe that better. Am willing to put some work into it but I have two other tractors that need my attention as well at home now. Would like to get this up and operational for this year's work. Any ways regarding the serial number I've asked will find out.

Neglected when it had the clutch problem. Was 5 years they say in the shed. Just out of the shed for the pictures for me. It looks like some seal is leaking around PTO area from the pictures but that isn't anything I can't work around. I'll know much more come this time next week.
a155076.jpg

a155077.jpg
 
It looks entirely respectable for a non restored original tractor of that vintage. The gauges are intact too.
A seat, grill, clutch, headlights, front tires and pto shield are all that is required. To make it an intact tractor in it's work clothes.
The swept back front axle is desirable option. Unusual to see original fenders still on the tractor and in decent condition.
Live pto or transmission driven? On occasion a SCV setup can be found for those tractors.
 
Not sure just yet on how it works. Just got the serial number. RUS 45372 any idea on it from that? Does look to be a cherry in the rough. Will have a look this weekend for sure.
 

Mid 1964 production year. 1010's were built into the 1965 production year.
The primary mechanical updates occurred at serial # 31,001 and 42,001. There were some hydraulic system upgrades at 51043.
 
Some tractors had side rails between the front end casting and rear end on the sides of the tractor This one does not have the rails, so it is only held by bolts in to the ends of the engine block both front and rear. Over stressing/ twisting as the tractor is driven over rough ground puts pressure on the bolts and some times causes them to break the casting holding the bolts. If you ever want to put a loader on this tractor be sure to at the side rail to add additional support for the loader. From the additional pictures, I say it does not look to bad, but then I'm one of those whom B@D says likes a challenge..
 
Well I guess it"snot meant to be. Owner sold it out
from under me Saturday morning. I had the money not
the time. Thanks guys for your help. Maybe you can
point the new owner with the same questions.
 

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